What comes to mind when I say “Thailand”? 

Do you think of street food, beautiful beaches, and Buddhist temples? 

While you can find all of that here, Thailand should be better known for the incredible motorcycling you can do in this land. 

After four years living in Northern Thailand based out of Chiang Mai, I can tell you there is nothing like this in the world. 

And this free guide is your window in to that world. Here’s what I have in store for you:

1. Why Thailand is the Perfect Place for your Next Motorcycle Trip
2. Planning a ride in Northern Thailand – from bike rentals to hotel bookings
3. Two Best Routes in Northern Thailand – complete with recommended hotels, restaurants, cafes, and points of interest. 
4. Packing Tips for your Ride
5. How to Get to Thailand in One Piece
6. Basic Cultural Knowledge and Decorum
7. What to Know about Riding in Thailand

Why Thailand is the Perfect Place for a Motorcycle Trip

There are EIGHT main reasons why Thailand is an incredible place to ride. Number 7 might come as a shock to you.

1. The Warmth of Thai People

One of the first things you’ll notice in Thailand is the friendliness and hospitality of its people. Known as the ‘Land of Smiles’, Thai people are genuinely welcoming and helpful. 

Whether you’re lost or in need of local tips, you’ll often find that locals are eager to assist. They will also never ask for anything in return, contrary to many other countries you might have visited. 

The hospitality in Thai culture makes for plenty of surprise interactions and hilarious stories throughout a motorcycle journey. Don’t be surprised if you end up being invited into a home to taste fresh mangoes from a nearby grove or invited to drink local whiskey with the taxi drivers. 

2. A Culinary Paradise

You might feel you know Thai cuisine already, given there are over 10,000 Thai restaurants in the USA alone and many more across the world. Thai cuisine is renowned worldwide for its bright flavors and deep variety.

I promise you that in Thailand, the food is (somehow) 100 times better than Thai food you get in other parts of the world; thanks to the freshness of the produce and the skill of the chefs. It’s also cheap, with a basic roadside meal costing about $2. You’re full and back on the road for less than the cost of a bus fare. 

But it’s not all street food stalls serving up hot Pad Thai and spicy Som Tam. You can also find fine dining experiences dotted all around the country, serving not only Thai specialties but western food from steaks to Italian. Food is very important in Thai culture and daily life, so it’s no wonder the diversity of food available here caters to all taste buds and budgets.

3. Comfortable and Affordable Accommodations

A low cost of living (versus the West) combined with a service mindset means accommodation in Thailand are often shockingly nice for the price. This is not the land of $100 roach-filled motel rooms (that’s the USA) – here you’ll find small boutique hotels with a pool and breakfast included for just $20 a night. 

Want a five star room with a view and a mattress made of clouds? You’ll be paying those exorbitant US motel prices; about $100 – $150. The value for money here is unbeatable. 

At any of these places the service is often exceptional, with staff going out of their way to ensure your stay is comfortable. Look for places that offer secure and covered parking with an included breakfast to make things easy. And don’t be shy about asking for sights to see, route information and local places to eat. The best parts of a Thai motorcycle adventure are the ones you didn’t plan at all. 

4. Stunning Scenery like Nowhere Else (Especially in Northern Thailand)

Most people live their entire lives without seeing the beauty of a countryside like Thailand’s. You’ll find plains of neatly irrigated rice paddies at the foot of misty-covered mountains that seem to roll on to the edge of the Earth. You will carve through rich and untouched jungles on fresh pavement. You will meet local hill tribes who consider themselves separate from the nations that occupy the valleys below; the Akha, Karen, and Hmong to name a few. 

While many riders avoid the rainy season in Thailand, I believe this is one of the best times to visit. Why? The rain brings green foliage and clear air, making the rolling hills and mountains of Thailand appear like gigantic piles of emeralds. Rain here is sporadic, with an hour of downpour surrounded by 11 hours of sunshine. As long as you’re flexible each day, you can usually avoid it. 

Routes like the Mae Hong Son Loop are legendary among motorcycle travelers for their breathtaking vistas and endless curves.

5. Easy, Warm Weather Conditions

Thailand’s weather is predominantly warm and sunny, making it ideal for motorcycle trips most of the year. The best time to ride is from November to February when the weather is cooler and less rainy. However, even during the wet season, showers are usually short and can provide a refreshing break from the heat. Bring your mesh gear and a rain suit; you’re set. 

6. Safety in Thailand

This is one of the most underappreciated aspects of riding in Thailand, because most riders don’t have enough time here to truly appreciate it. 

Thailand is one of the safest places on Earth for travelers. Let me illustrate this with my own life experience: I leave my $400 Shoei helmet resting on my side mirror 24/7, parked all around the city. I regularly leave my bag strapped to the back with a bungee cord as well, with money and a laptop in it. When I go on long rides and park my bike along the side of the road for a hike, I drape all my gear over the bike to dry out. 

In four years living here, you’d expect me to lose something to theft, right? 

Never. Not once. Not a single dollar worth of anything stolen, off my bike or otherwise. 

I’ve also never felt unsafe here, no matter the part of town I’m in or the hour of night.

When you’re on vacation enjoying a long, leisurely motorcycle trip the last thing you want to think about is where to park to avoid having your bike jacked. You cannot pay for that peace of mind. Only Thailand has it.

7. Riding In Thailand is Safer than Home

You might think riding a motorcycle in Thailand means you have a death wish. Fortunately, that couldn’t be further from the truth. Let me start with the basics:

1. Motorcycles are the primary mode of transport here, so motorists are used to looking out for them.
2. Speeds are slower than in most other countries, topping out around 60mph on the highway.
3. Outside of the cities, traffic is sparse.

Ride a smaller bike, put your ego aside, and just enjoy the ride. That’s what Thailand is all about. 

8. Any Problem is Easy to Fix

The final kicker that makes a motorcycle trip in Thailand so amazing is that any problem you have is easy to fix. 

• Hungry? There’s always someone cooking within a 20 minute ride. 
• Thirsty? There’s a 7-11 on any corner with cold mineral water. 
• Flat tire? Look for new tires hanging on a pole by the side of the road; you’ve found a mechanic. Give him 15 minutes and you’re back on the road. 
• Wonky engine? The rental shop will pick you up and give you a new bike. 
• Tired? Pull over to a roadside “sala” (like a gazebo) and lay down for a bit. 

Put your troubles aside; you can relax here. 

Now let’s get into planning your ride in Thailand. 

Planning Your Ride

The best part about Thailand is you don’t really need to plan. Everything is so simple here that you can show up with no reservations and have just as easy and amazing a time as if you plan everything out. 

That said, a little planning can help you go deeper into this wonderful world and appreciate sites and routes you never would have known about otherwise. 

The pre-made plans I’ll give you here focus on Northern Thailand, the region I call home. Compared to other parts of Thailand, this is the land of endless mountains and curves. You can certainly find many amazing rides, villages and sites outside of Northern Thailand, but this area is the gem. 

I recommend you start your trip in Chiang Mai. This is an easy base to jump from in to any part of Northern Thailand and has the motorcycle rental shops I recommend. 

Recommended Hotels in Chiang Mai

• Budget: Hostel One Art and Gallery – gorgeous and centrally located boutique hostel. Shared rooms at a fair price.
• Mid-range: I Lanna House – right near the famous Wat Phra Singh temple in the old city but on a side street, so it’s quieter. Free breakfast too. 
• Luxury: Anantara Chiang Mai Resort – absolutely impeccable service, perfect rooms, serene landscape, incredible breakfast buffet and full-service restaurant. This might be my favorite hotel in the world. However, you certainly pay a pretty penny for it!

For my full list of favorite coffee shops and restaurants in Chiang Mai, check out the Riding in Thailand Expanded guide.

Where to Rent your Motorcycle

There are three shops I can personally recommend in Chiang Mai. 

1. C&P Big Bike. My absolute favorite. They offer a mix of adventure bikes like the Honda CB500X, Honda Africa Twin, and Suzuki V-Strom as well as standard bikes like the MT-07. I love this shop because the bikes are impeccably maintained and the owners, Lan and Ammy, always do right by the customer.
2. POP Big Bike Rental. POP is the biggest rental shop in town, offering everything from touring (Africa Twin and Yamaha Tracer 9) to scooters (Honda Forza and Yamaha XMAX) to modern classics (Royal Enfield) and sport bikes (like the CBR). 
3. Mango Bikes. If you’re looking for something small, Mango is your go-to. They have a plethora of 125-150cc scooters that are perfect for beginners or anyone who just wants to take it easy (and cheap). Rent for as low as $3/day. They’ve also recently added some 300 and 500cc options as well. 

Should you want to pick up any gear for your ride, head to Helmet Shop Chiang Mai. Here you’ll find a wide selection of jackets, pants, helmets, gloves and boots, some used and heavily discounted. For higher end gear, go to Chang Moto.

Now for my route guides… 

The Two Best Routes in Northern Thailand

Mae Hong Son Loop – 4 Day Ride

The Mae Hong Son Loop is a 4 day trip, but you may want to hide out in Baan Rak Thai or Pai for a while… here’s the route mapped out for you. 

Day 1 – Chiang Mai to Khun Yuam

Your first day is a long way, taking you west almost to the Burmese border. I like to stop at the epic Mae Ya waterfall and then for a meal at Hot Coffee Guest House and Resort. All noted in the map link below. 

Day 1 Map Link

Recommended Hotels:

• Khunyuam Resort
• Good View Guesthouse & Camping

Recommended Restaurants and Cafes: 

• Coffee Jack
• Huankome Kafe
• Katin’s Kitchen
• Mountain High, Coffee, Restaurant, Resort

If this ride is too long: stay at Hug Camp Mae Chaem right in the middle to break it up.

Day 2 – Khun Yuam to Ban Rak Thai

The second day of the loop is more relaxed; you’re out of city traffic and only have 3 hours of riding to do. I’ve put a stop at a coffee shop in Khun Yuam before you depart, then a midday stop at the hot springs and a temple in Mae Hong Son city. And finally you head up into the mountains to a lake that looks Swiss and a Chinese tea village (yes, in Thailand). 

When you arrive in Ban Rak Thai (the village that loves Thailand) you’ll feel like you’ve just arrived in China. This village was settled by Chinese following the civil war and retains much of that cultural heritage today. Try the Yunnan Chinese food here, it’s unique and amazing!

Day 2 Map Link

Recommended Hotels:

• Lee Wine Rak Thai Resort – Your room is in the tea fields
• Wojia – New, funky yet high end

Recommended Restaurants and Cafes: 

• Leewine Coffee
• Pang Pao Dim Sum
• Yunnan Chinese Restaurant overlooking the lake 

Day 3 – Ban Rak Thai to Pai

Only one stop on your route today at a nice viewpoint; otherwise just enjoy the twisties and get to Pai early. There’s plenty to do there; from relaxing at Two Huts to soaking in the hot springs and turning up the magic at Sunset Bar. 

Day 3 Map Link

Recommended Hotels:

• Pai Vieng Fah Resort
• Mad Monkey Hostel Pai
• Montis Resort
• Reverie Siam Resort – the nicest in Pai

Pai has everything from backpacker hostels to bungalows in the rice fields to ultra-luxury; look around on Agoda or Booking.com and see what you like. 

Recommended Restaurants and Cafes: 

• Pai Siam Bar & Bistro – Great pizza
• Blue Ox – Great for Western food and steaks
• Gorilla Cafe and Restaurant – Good for local thai food
• Two Sisters Restaurant – Good for local Thai and Burmese food
• Bom Bowls – Hippie smoothie bowls and juices
• The Pedlar – Amazing western food and coffee
• Cafecito – Weirdly delicious Mexican food, more authentic than anything in Chiang Mai. 
• Pai Walking Street – There is all kinds of food on the walking street; you can easily fill up here. Opens around 4pm and goes until 10pm. 

What to Do in Pai:

• Epic Views from the White Buddha: Climb the stairs to Chedi Phra That Mae Yen – a giant white Buddha standing on the side of the mountain. It’s a haul to climb, but the views over the Pai valley are worth it. 
• Relax in a Hammock and gaze over the valley at Two Huts. Named for the two bamboo huts on site, come early or someone else will snatch them both! Serves beer, juice, and some food. 
• Get a Massage: I recommend Relax Massage or Pai Body Magic
• Soak in the Hot Springs at Pai Hot Springs
• Get a workout in at Charn Chai Muay Thai gym

Day 4 – Pai to Chiang Mai

You’ve saved the best for last: The road between Chiang Mai and Pai is absolutely legendary. The picture doesn’t do it justice; the sheer number of curves is like no other place on Earth. The road condition is great, though you should watch out for minivans full of tourists careening around corners on this stretch. 

Day 4 Map Link

Stop at Coffee We for a drink after the first leg, then continue down towards the Air Diamond Cafe, a unique spot for another rest and cold AC. For the last stretch, you can take the main 107 highway but it’s pin-straight and dull. I recommend you take a slight detour on to the 4034 canal road as shown. Take that down towards SanSai, and stop for lunch at the Ohkajhu Organic Farm. 

Then you’re back in Chiang Mai!

On to the next route!

Nan Loop – 6 Day Ride

The Nan Loop as I’ve planned it here is a 6 day trip, but you could easily spend a few days in Chiang Rai or Nan. Here’s the route mapped out for you. 

6 Days Trip Route Map Link

Day 1 – Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai

Today you will embark on a delightful journey from the ancient city of Chiang Mai to an even older capital of the Lanna kingdom: Chiang Rai. Saddle up; you’re in for a 3-4 hour ride through the mountains between the two cities.

Day 1 Map Link

The road to Chiang Rai is swooping and wide, a perfect introduction to riding in Thailand. Through the mountains you’ll silently cross the border into Chiang Rai province. About 50 kilometers later, I recommend you pause at Ploen na Ploen na Cafe for excellent coffee.

Then you’ll take a turn up a mountain, where the road narrows. You’re now carving the ridge of a mountain range with beautiful views on both sides. A stop at Yayo Farm is mandatory; no farm animals, but fresh cakes and coffee with a rope swing offering a breathtaking view of undulating mountains. 

Head back down the mountain and you’ll arrive at Wat Rong Khun White Temple. Stunning in the sunlight, this is the master work of artist Charlermchai Kositpipat. Find a hotel that suits you in town; you have everything from hostels to five star resorts to choose from. 

Recommended Hotels: 

• Mora Boutique Hotel – 13-minute walk from Chiang Rai Night Bazaar
• Le Patta Hotel – Enjoy very comfortable rooms, and modern amenities, including an elevator.
• SOOKNIRUND Hotel – Central location, convenient for exploring Chiang Rai’s iconic Clock Tower and enjoying nearby delicious food.
• The Legend Chiang Rai Boutique River Resort and Spa – A hidden riverside gem with a nearby 1km loop park for morning runs.

Recommended Restaurants and Cafes: 

• Reggae Home & Bar – Stylish decor, flavorful drinks, and great vibes right near the Night Bazaar. 
• Surf and Turf Chiang Rai – If you’re missing western food
• Panya Esan – Premium Esan food from the Northeast of Thailand
• Khao Soi Pa Nay – A local favorite for a famous Northern Thai dish: Khao Soi
• Chivit Thamma Da – Great selection of western food and Thai dishes along with coffee and baked goods
• Polar Boulangerie and Patisserie – Best bread in the city, great coffee as well. Off the beaten path.  

Day 2 – Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong

Day 2 Map Link

On your second day of adventure, depart from the famous clock tower in Chiang Rai and head to Chiang Khong, settled on the legendary Mekhong River that runs from China through to the open ocean in Vietnam. 

After a short ride along the base of the mountains to the west of Chiang Rai, you’ll head to the rolling hills surrounding the Choui Fong Tea plantation. Enjoy a breathtaking view from this beautifully constructed cafe, indulge in a tea-tasting session, and purchase tea leaves for home.

Head back to the highway or take the more adventurous route through the mountains via Route 1130 and Route 1338 towards the Doi Tung Palace. Visit the Doi Tung Lodge, a beautiful wooden villa once used by the Thai royal family, as well as the gorgeous botanical gardens. Free English audio guides are available to hear the stories behind the intriguing artifacts and the captivating ceiling within the villa’s main foyer.

Now you’re heading towards the Mekhong river and the Golden Triangle region. Stop at the Golden Triangle Park Hall of Opium to learn the long history of this region and what makes it so significant to global affairs. The reduced 120 baht entry fee for foreigners grants access to an amazing opium collection and semi-interactive halls explaining opium’s history.

Conclude the day’s exploration with a ride along the Mekhong river to Chiang Khong district. You’ll find many quiet hotels and resorts dotted along the water, but I’ve recommended a few below. 

Recommended Hotels: 

• Baan Sakuna Hotel & Resort – Enjoy stunning mountain views and a peaceful atmosphere
• Fortune Riverview Hotel Chiang Khong – Located by the Mekong River, this hotel offers a peaceful, modern, and clean experience.

Recommended Restaurants and Cafes:

• Baan Sakuna Garden Restaurant Cafe – Great Thai food in a nice setting
• Rim Khon Restaurant – Well done Thai food right on the river
• Slow Bar Chiang Khong – Incredible coffee, the new hot export of Northern Thailand
• Shabu Grill – Popular with locals, cook your own hotpot at your table
• Nadpob Rice Soup – Local rice soup, long hours and delicious
• Baanpeung Rimkhong Restaurant – Best for prawns and shrimps with views of the river

Day 3 – Chiang Khong to Sapan

Start the third day of your journey with a quick breakfast in Chiang Khong; you have a long and fantastic ride today to Sapan. If you want to catch the sunrise at Phu Chi Fa (which I highly recommend), start even earlier. 

Day 3 Map Link

Crossing over one mountain range you’ll find yourself climbing towards the border of Thailand and Laos. You’re heading to Phu Chi Fah, a 360 degree lookout point. If you’re riding in the winter, bring a jacket and pants; it’s cold up there!

Continue your journey along Route 1093, immersing yourself in the lush surroundings of trees and curves. Eventually you’ll reach the captivating Phu Sang National Park. Explore its beautiful waterfalls, grass park, and enjoy a picnic in the serene surroundings.

As you continue towards the small village of Sapan, stop at the Route 1148 Cafe. Not only are the cakes and coffee here amazing, the view over the cliffs is breathtaking. Something out of a movie. You can even stay on this ridge for a night; dinner and breakfast will be available with your room. 

The final leg into Sapan takes you through a valley and into a gorgeous oasis; you’re spoiled for choice here whether you want to camp, stay in a bamboo hut or live a life of luxury at Casa Ya Thip Boutique Resort. 

As you continue on Route 1093, the scenic drive takes you to Casa Ya Thip Boutique Resort in Sapan. This charming retreat promises a delightful stay with amazing wood-fired oven dishes and picturesque landscapes.

Recommended Hotels: 

• Casa Ya Thip Boutique Resort – High end luxury in an idyllic setting
• Say Love Baan Sapan – A charming resort set in the rice fields, surrounded by towering mountains.
• Mong View Sapan Resort – Beautiful spot on the mountain with breathtaking views
• Sai Mok Bok Hug – most beautiful atmosphere and environment

Recommended Restaurants and Cafes:

• Casa Ya Thip Restaurant – Wood-fired oven dishes and great western food
• Krua Plubplung – Good for local Thai food
• Yud Vela cafe – Best view in Nan, great coffee and pastries 
• Cafe’ at Sapan – Excellent coffee, surrounded by rice fields in the valley

Day 4 – Sapan to Nan

Your fourth day begins by heading back west out from Sapan and towards the village of Bo Kluea. Here you’ll find an ancient salt mine, which is worth a stop. Buy some salt to take home. 

Day 4 Map Link

As you continue southeast on Route 1081, stop at the Tortuous Road viewpoint to soak in the curves you’re about to carve. The journey unfolds with a captivating 23.6-kilometer drive to Street Number 3, a famous stretch of this road featuring three iconic curves. 

While the riding today is shorter than most other days on this trip, it’s some of the most incredible in terms of curves, views, and road conditions. 

Once you hit the valley, you’ll follow small village roads into the charming town of Nan. Here you’ll find traditional Northern Thai food as well as many festivals in the dry season. 

Recommended Hotels: 

• Khum Mueang Min Boutique Hotel – A nostalgic and stylish boutique hotel with a very convenient location near the weekend market. Complimentary bicycles for rent too. 
• Nirvanan House – A nice and lovely central location in Nan, offering an open and light atmosphere in a spacious villa.
• Khuang Chang Kham Hotel – Tucked in a quiet side street, this traditionally styled hotel is simple but cozy. 
• Nan Nakara – Clean, all white hotel close to several tourists spots.

Recommended Restaurants and Cafes:

• Huan Phuka – Excellent Northern Thai food
• Secret yard x Chashu ryu – Best place for western food dinner. I recommend the smoked BBQ brisket.
• Nuna Khrua Menu Pla – Good for seafood on the Nan River
• Wanda Rice Curry Shop – Local spot for amazing Thai food
• Slowtime Slowbar – Best coffee in town

Day 5 – Nan to Phayao

On day five, you depart from Nan (unless you stay an extra night here!) and continue through the picturesque landscapes towards Phayao. You will cross over a staggering five mountain ranges on today’s journey. 

Day 5 Map Link

There isn’t much between Nan and Phayao except beautiful views, so pack some water and snacks for today. 

Recommended Hotels: 

• Phuglong Hotel – Town luxury, spacious rooms, and a slightly more diverse breakfast buffet
• The Cozy Nest – Great location near Phayao Lake’s shoreline and nightlife
• Naga Tara Resort – Chill resort of thatched roof villas right on the lake with amazing breakfast 
• ABIZZ Hotel KwanPhayao – Newly built and modern, exceptionally clean, and great value for a good night’s sleep.

Recommended Restaurants and Cafes:

• So Good Phayao – Lakeside restaurant with wide selection of Thai food and live music
• Saeng Jan Restaurant – Another lakeside restaurant offering Thai staples and live music
• Wooden House Phayao – Live music in a teak wood house with classic Thai food
• Jen ko house – Beautiful Japanese inspired coffee house and bar
• Microroast Coffee Bar and Roaster – Quaint coffee shop set back off the highway, offering a wide range of bean selections for coffee 
• Lakeland LIFE – Vintage atmosphere with amazing coffee and food
• The Lake Cafe – Coffee & Restaurant – scenic views over the lake, delicious food, and affordable prices – recommended one
• Night Market – Great local market with many stalls offering a variety of options

Day 6 – Phayao to Chiang Mai

Your last day takes you back from Phayao to Chiang Mai through several national parks. First you’ll head up the mountains west of Phayao Lake and to the Dinosaur Viewpoint, where you’ll look down on the lake and city of Phayao. Then you’ll carve through the mountains towards Baan Plai Na, a gorgeous organic farm with great food and coffee – worth a stop. Try the coconut latte. 

Day 6 Map Link

Head west on Route 118 until turning off on to Route 1252, where you’ll head towards Palore Coffee & Tea House. Set in a tiny valley, you’ll find a dizzying array of coffee and tea options here with tastings as well. A short ride from there is the Doi Saket hot springs, where it’s worth soaking your feet or paying for entrance to their Japanese-style onsen rooms for a full soak. 

Finish your journey with a stop at the Tweechol Botanical Garden, a tranquil haven away from tourist crowds. And finally you’re back in Chiang Mai, concluding your adventure. Grab a hotel with a nice bed and relax… you made it!

Recommended Hotels: 

• U Chiang Mai Hotel – A beautiful accommodation in the heart of Chiang Mai!
• T.Heritage Hotel – Luxury, stunning view, quiet, excellent value, high-tech rooms—clean and comfortable. 
• Nine Hotel Chiang Mai – Close to attractions, clean rooms and delicious western style breakfast Note: Can be noisy from nearby school at 7-7:30 AM
• 99 Heritage Hotel – Elegant, quiet, and traditional—like stepping back in time. 
• Tamarind Village – Recommended choice for those seeking a nature oasis in the heart of the city—romantic atmosphere
• The Wing Boutique Hotel Chiang Mai – Conveniently located within walking distance of major sites, offering affordable 4-star accommodation.
• Anantara Chiang Mai Resort – Stunning resort with several restaurants and bars set on the Ping River. The best hotel in Chiang Mai, hands down.  

Recommended Restaurants and Cafes:

• Khao Soy Nimman – Try the Northern specialty Khao Soi here!
• SP Chicken –  Delicious roast chicken and spicy som tam salad.
• Fern Forest Cafe – Set in a lush garden, you’ll find a big menu of Thai and western food here. 
• THE HOUSE by Ginger – Flavorful and fresh Thai food, perfect for a delightful dinner!
• Blue Diamond The Breakfast Club CM – Chiang Mai’s best spot for organic breads, pastries, fruits and more. Great for breakfast. 
• Baan Landai Fine Thai Cuisine – Indulge in delicious northern Thai dishes with a timeless yet modern twist.
• CoolMuang Cafe – Small cafe right by the famous Tha Pae gate, with the most comfortable lounge chairs in the entire city. Come early to snag them – there are only two!
• Graph One Nimman – Cozy cafe known for cold brew and pastries, set in the beautiful and bustling One Nimman complex. 
• Chit Hole CNX – Craft beer has a complicated place in Thai politics, but the owner of Chit Beer has successfully navigated it. This is the only truly Thai craft beer outlet in Thailand other than their location in Bangkok!

6 More Routes in the Full Guide

I’ve included 6 more detailed routes in Northern Thailand taking you to the Golden Triangle, Doi Inthanon, elephant sanctuaries, golf resorts, hidden Chinese military villages, vast temple complexes and quaint walking streets. 

Each route is complete with up-to-date hotel and restaurant recommendations, the best cafes, beautiful backroad rides and hidden gem activities you won’t find on TripAdvisor and travel blogs. You won’t find these anywhere else, because I didn’t find them until I discovered them myself while on the road. 

Every year I rewrite this guide to keep all the recommendations current with what I and my community of riders here are noticing about each route and location. 

This guide will easily save you $3,000+ from taking a staid guided tour and tons of time in picking hotels, eateries and more. 

Get 6 more routes and more recommendations to make your trip to Thailand unforgettable here: Riding in Thailand Expanded guide.

Packing Tips

Now it’s time to pack. My goal with this packing list is to make sure you bring everything you need and nothing you don’t, since you’ll want to travel light on your motorcycle. Soft-sided duffles and packing cubes work best. However, if you need to leave a bag in Chiang Mai, your hotel may be able to accommodate you. Or, you can store at the Chiang Mai airport for a flat fee. 

Northern Thailand Climate: 

• November – January [Prime Riding Season]: Cool days and nights with no rain. Temps range from 50 to 80 F. 
• February – May: Season of smoke and then heavy rain. Temps range from 80 to 100 F. Best to avoid this time in Northern Thailand, though you are rewarded with bargain prices and scarce tourists.
• June – October: Rainy season, so it will rain almost every day though usually for less than an hour. Temps are hot at 80-90 and the air is humid. However, the greenery is lush and the air is most clear at this time. 

Definitely bring stable and comfortable walking shoes for your trip – you’ll want to be mobile on foot as well! There is plenty to explore and hike. 

Don’t worry about locking up your helmet and gear. In four years riding here, I’ve never had a single thing stolen off my bike. Of course I cannot make any guarantee, but I think you’ll be surprised at how safe this country is. 

When I road trip in Thailand, I wear the same gym shorts, quick dry t-shirt, and quick dry underwear underneath my riding gear every day. Then I wash these in the shower periodically and hang them to dry. I pack separate sets of clothes for evenings. However, it’s harder to wash and dry quickly during the rainy season (June to October).

Don’t forget to check your passport expiry date and your visa requirements. Your passport must expire more than 6 months from your entry date to Thailand, and your country may require a visa – though many (including the USA) get 30 days on arrival. 

Want a full checklist of everything you should bring for any kind of motorcycle trip in Thailand? You’ll find it in the Riding in Thailand Expanded guide.

Getting to Thailand

Depending on where you’re from, Thailand can be a big adjustment both in time zone and culture. 

Let’s start with the easy bits: getting your body clock adjusted and getting in to the country: I recommend you download the TimeShifter app and set it up a few days before you leave for Thailand. Follow the directions there as far as caffeine, melatonin, light exposure and sleep times and your transition to Thai time will be MUCH easier.  

Once you’re on Thai “land” (see what I did there?) you’ll proceed to Customs and Immigration. Immigration may ask you to show hotel reservations, cash or credit card, and/or airline ticket departing Thailand.

For a returning airline ticket: If you don’t want to book a return flight out of Thailand just yet, book a cheap and refundable ticket to a neighboring country (like Vietnam). Then just cancel the flight for a full refund after you pass Immigration. 

A smile and a bit of friendliness goes a long way with Thais. 

For a full guide to setting up your SIM card for local cell service (cheap and blazing fast) as well as getting cash and getting around (off the motorcycle), you’ll find all of that in the Riding in Thailand Expanded guide.

Enjoying Thailand

Here are a few things you should know about Thailand. If you want to get to know locals and truly unlock the beauty of this country, you’ll find much more guidance and tips in the Riding in Thailand Expanded guide.

• Street food is spectacular. 
  • Just go for popular stalls with a lot of turnover, so the food is freshly cooked.
• There’s a 7-11 on every corner. 
  • You can always pick up a water bottle, snack, or toiletry basically anywhere.
• Bathrooms are civilized here: with bidets! 
  • That little spray gun on the side of the toilet is for you – trust me, it’s worth it. Spray, one wipe, you’re done. Cleaner than any roll of toilet paper can get you. 
  • Some public restrooms won’t have any toilet paper at all. You can either air dry down there or carry a small package of tissues for these cases.  
• Tipping is not customary, but still appreciated. 
  • Leave a little bit extra at restaurants and with tour guides, and you will get even more smiles and wai (the bow, explained below).
• Haggling is okay – but be polite. 
  • For what it’s worth, I don’t haggle (even in touristy markets). Prices are low already!

Ground Rules

• Do not drink tap water!
  • Even Thais don’t drink it. 
  • Every hotel will provide a small bottle or two, but you can also buy water at any 7-11 for very cheap. Bring cash to 7-11, the card minimum is often 200 baht ($6).
• Don’t take recommendations from Tuk Tuk drivers. 
  • The open sided three-wheeled taxis that are Tuk tuks are an awesome way to get around (though overpriced), but drivers often get a kickback for recommending scammy places to unsuspecting tourists. Been there, done that. 
• Don’t spook the street dogs. 
  • Some are friendly, but many are aggressive. They get kicked a lot, unfortunately. 
• Be extra careful with food allergies. 
  • Food allergies are not common among Thais so cooks are not used to cooking for them. 
• For food poisoning / diarrhea, I go to any pharmacy and explain my symptoms. 
  • Corner store pharmacies in Thailand operate like mini hospitals, and many drugs that are prescription-only in the USA are simple to get in Thailand (like antibiotics for traveler’s diarrhea). I am not a doctor, this is not medical advice. 

Intro to Thai Culture

Thai culture is very different from Western cultures and takes some getting used to. That said, Thais are extremely kind and generous people, to a point that might shock you. 

First, you must know the Wai. The Wai is the handshake of Thailand. It is simple to do: just put your palms together in front of your chest and bow your head. Thais don’t expect this from foreigners but love to see it. 

Second, you must know that anger does not work in Thailand. Thais must “save face” in any interaction, and getting yelled at will mean they have to escalate or just say whatever you want to hear until you calm down. If you’re not getting your way or feel you aren’t understood, simply be polite and insistent. You can also ask for a different staff member if someone is stonewalling you. 

Third, you must know that Thais are incredibly accommodating people. This means you might be offending someone and have no idea you’re doing so, because it is built into Thai culture to not be imposing on others. Just be polite, follow any signs you see, and you’re good to go. No Karens in sight here (except for the Karen hill tribe!)

Fourth, respect the monarchy and Buddhism. This is just basic courtesy, but you should know that in certain situations disrespecting the monarchy or Buddhism can violate Thai law. 

Impressing Locals by Speaking Thai

I’ll handle most of the talking, but if you do want to impress some locals here are a few phrases:

Men and women end sentences differently – men say “krap” with a rising tone while women say “kha” with a falling tone. If you imitate Thai women, you will get a lot of laughs!

Riding in Thailand

Riding a motorcycle in Thailand is a sublime experience. The roads and scenery here blow everything I’ve seen in the USA out of the water, and all of it is accessible on small and fun bikes at low speeds. However, the roads are much different than in the USA. 

For one, we drive on the left side in Thailand. Grandmas are on the left riding at walking speed, faster traffic is flowing around everyone else using whatever sliver of pavement they can find. You may also notice some motorists treat the shoulder as a lane of its own!

Second, people frequently break rules. You’ll see:

• Vehicles overtaking many cars at once on a 2-lane road, barreling towards you in your lane. Move to the shoulder and let them pass – there is no sense in getting aggressive over this, or playing chicken with them. If you see someone flash their lights at you, it means “Move over!” – because they won’t!
• Vehicles riding up the shoulder on the wrong side of the road 
• Vehicles using the entire road especially on tight mountain roads. Err towards the outside of the lane, especially on blind curves. You can also honk on blind curves to alert drivers coming the other way. 
• Vehicles making U-turns by going all the way across the road to the opposite shoulder – in fact this is how Thais are taught to make U-turns.
• Vehicles tailgating you very close – move over as much as you can and let them pass. They will rarely honk, instead waiting for you to notice them in your mirror. 
• Vehicles flash their high beams to say “get out of the way!” – not to give way. 
• Vehicles cutting you off – especially old farm trucks. Getting angry will not solve anything, so just slow down and go around. 
• Vehicles running red lights at night because they don’t want to wait for it to turn green. 

Keep your head on straight and don’t expect anyone to follow any semblance of rules. Also don’t expect any dog or buffalo laying in the street to move a millimeter even with you barreling towards them. They just don’t care. 

You’ll get used to it quicker than you think. 

There is nothing like riding a motorcycle in Thailand. The roads, the views, the wild things you see that are perfectly normal here… you’re in for a treat. 

Enjoy!

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