Choosing an adventure bike can feel overwhelming, but I’m here to help you think it through. And let me tell you, there are a few key things I’ve learned that might surprise you.

• First, don’t let age hold you back – adventure riding is absolutely for us ‘older’ folks.
• Second, when it comes to off-road, lighter is seriously better, like mind-blowingly better.
• And finally, it’s okay to choose a bike with your heart, even if it’s not the most ‘sensible’ choice on paper. Your first bike is a journey of discovery in itself.

Let’s dive into it.

If you’d rather watch this guide, here’s my original video on the topic:

Adventure Bike Choices for the Over 40s

Choosing an adventure bike is not an easy task, especially when you’re starting out a bit later in life. There are so many factors to consider, and honestly, it can feel a bit overwhelming. We are all different, right? We have different body sizes, different budgets, and we live in different places with different riding opportunities. Bike availability also varies depending on where you are in the world – what’s available in the US might not be in Europe or Australia, and vice versa.

And then there are our ambitions. What do we actually want to do with the bike? Are we dreaming of tackling serious off-road trails, or are we more focused on comfortable long-distance touring with some gravel roads thrown in?

Let’s be honest, many of us have been dreaming about this for a long time. We’re the prime targets for all the cool marketing videos from the big bike brands, showing us what’s possible with these incredible machines. We see Pol Tarres and Chris Birch doing insane things, and it’s hard not to get caught up in that hype.

There’s also the peer pressure aspect. Maybe you have friends who are already riding, and they all have a certain type of bike. You want to join them, to fit in, and there’s a temptation to just get the same bike as everyone else.

With all of this swirling around, it’s impossible for anyone to just pick the perfect bike for you. But what I can do is help you think through the process a little bit. My goal is to help you reason through these choices so you can make a decision that’s right for you.

Defining Adventure Bike

First, let’s clarify what we even mean by “adventure bike.” It’s a pretty broad term, but for me, it means a bike that’s capable of taking me to far-off places, at least on multi-day trips. I want to be able to load it up with luggage, and I want to be able to handle rugged roads and some degree of off-road riding. Not necessarily hardcore single-track, but definitely more than just smooth pavement.

The Motorcycle Spectrum: From Dirt to Road

To understand the options, let’s think about a spectrum of bikes. On one end, we have dirt bikes. These are machines built purely for dirt, and often for competition. On the other end, we have road bikes, designed for 100% asphalt. And in between, there’s a whole range of bikes that blend off-road and road capabilities.

Moving from the dirt bike side towards the road, we first encounter dual-sport bikes. These are typically in the 300cc to 700cc range and are often single-cylinder machines that look a lot like enduro bikes. Popular examples include the Honda CRF300L and the Kawasaki KLX300 (though I believe the KLX300 isn’t available in Europe). There are also larger dual-sports like the KTM 690 Enduro R, Husqvarna 701 Enduro, and my own AJP PR7.

Honda CRF300L

Kawasaki KLX300

KTM 690 Enduro R

Husqvarna 701 Enduro

AJP PR7

Then, coming from the road bike side, we have the adventure bikes, or ADV bikes. This category is quite broad, ranging from bikes with just a little off-road capability to those that are surprisingly capable in the dirt. Within the ADV category, we can further break it down into big ADV bikes, mid-size ADV bikes, and a newer category that’s really gaining traction: light ADV bikes.

Big ADV Bikes

Let’s start with the big ADV bikes. These are typically 1000cc and up, and they weigh in at 240 kilos (around 530 pounds) or more. They are powerful, packed with electronics, and designed for comfort. Think cruise control, traction control, electronic suspension – all the bells and whistles. These are bikes like the BMW GS 1300 Adventure, KTM 1290 Super Adventure, and Ducati Multistrada V4.

BMW GS 1300 Adventure

KTM 1290 Super Adventure

Ducati Desert-X

Mid-Size ADV Bikes

Next, we have the mid-size ADV bikes, generally in the 700cc to 900cc range. This is where you find bikes like the Yamaha Ténéré 700 (which I own), the KTM 890 Adventure, Triumph Tiger 900, and BMW F 850/900 GS. These bikes offer a good balance of power, weight, and features, making them versatile for both on-road and off-road riding.

Yamaha Ténéré 700

KTM 890 Adventure

Triumph Tiger 900

BMW F 850 GS

BMW F 900 GS

Light ADV Bikes

A really exciting trend right now is the rise of light ADV bikes. These are generally in the 350cc to 500cc range. There are a lot of new models coming out in this category. They tend to be simpler, more affordable, and importantly, lighter and smaller than their bigger siblings. Examples include the Royal Enfield Himalayan 450, the CFMOTO 450MT (which is a bit heavier for its class, but still very approachable), and upcoming models like the BMW GS 310 and Aprilia Tuareg 400.

Royal Enfield Himalayan 450

CFMOTO 450 MT

BMW GS 310 (Prototype)

Aprilia Tuareg 457

My Personal Bike Philosophy: Light and Maintainable

For my own riding, I’ve ruled out dirt bikes. While some people convert them into adventure bikes, they are really designed for competition. Their engines are built for maximum performance and require very frequent maintenance. Road bikes, obviously, aren’t what I’m looking for either. And while big ADV bikes have a lot of power and features, they also come with a high price tag and a lot of weight.

What I personally focus on is a bike that is as light as possible while still meeting my needs for long-distance travel. I also want a bike that is relatively easy to maintain because I like to work on my bikes myself in my garage, and I enjoy learning about their mechanics.

The Influence Factor: Marketing, Dreams, and Peer Pressure

When it comes to choosing a bike, I think a lot of people today are influenced by external pressures. Marketing, social media, influencers – it all plays a role. I know for a fact that I’ve sold a few Ténéré 700s just through my YouTube channel and sharing my experiences.

My own story is a good example of how influence works. Back in 2017, I watched “Long Way Round,” and they were riding BMW GSs. I also had two friends who were already planning adventures on BMW R 1200 GS Adventures. So, naturally, I ended up getting a BMW R 1200 GS Adventure myself.

We started riding those bikes together, and having the same bike as my friends gave me a sense of belonging and confirmation that I’d made the right choice. I rode the BMW for a year, but I started realizing that I wanted to go off-road more. I was ending up in places where the big GS just didn’t belong. Or, at least, I’d need a team of friends to help me get it unstuck!

I realized I needed a lighter bike. I didn’t have much experience with enduro bikes or anything like that at the time. The GS was actually the first “off-road” motorcycle I ever owned. Then, when the Yamaha Ténéré 700 came out, I fell in love with it just from the pictures. I ordered one before I even had a chance to test ride it. When I finally got it, it was fantastic. It felt so much lighter and more agile than the GS.

I’ve been having fun on the Ténéré 700 for 83,000 kilometers now. I’ve taken it on very long trips, and it’s been great for that. For long trips, my priority is to get to my destination, so I tend to avoid really challenging off-road sections because of the risk of getting stuck or damaging the bike. I keep the off-road riding relatively mild, but still enjoy exploring rougher roads and trails. The Ténéré 700 has been excellent for that kind of riding.

The Lighter Side: The 500cc Revelation

I have pushed the Ténéré 700 into some pretty challenging places, sometimes even over my head in terms of difficulty. There were times when I thought, “This is it. This is what adventure riding is like. It’s tough, the bike is heavy, and you’re going to be exhausted.”

But then, I got invited to ride with my friend Steve, who’s a lifelong biker with tons of experience on enduros and rally bikes.

Steve made a comment that really stuck with me: “It’s always easier with a small bike. You’re never out riding thinking, damn, I wish this bike weighed 100 kilos more.“ It’s so true!

He let me test ride his KTM 500 EXC-F, which weighs just over 100 kilos (around 220 pounds). And it was a revelation. My mind was blown.

I had never had so much fun off-road.

It felt like my riding skills instantly doubled. Suddenly, I could go anywhere. I was riding through places that I had previously thought were impossible, based on my experience with the 200+ kilo bikes. I would just aim for an obstacle, give it some gas, and I was through with no effort.

Riding the KTM 500 was a real eye-opener in terms of how much weight affects your off-road ability. After that experience, I test rode a few other bikes and eventually ended up with the AJP PR7. It looks similar to the KTM 500 in some ways, but there are some key differences.

The AJP is about 40 kilos (almost 90 pounds) lighter than the Ténéré 700, and importantly, the weight is carried much lower, closer to the footpegs.

I live in a region where I can’t really use a pure enduro machine like the KTM 500 for everything because of road riding requirements to get to the trails. The AJP PR7 offers a good compromise, being road-legal and still incredibly light and capable off-road.

Mountain Bike Skills: A Transferable Advantage

I have to confess, I had a bit of a head start when it came to off-road skills. For about 3-4 years before getting into adventure riding, I was heavily into mountain biking, particularly downhill and riding in rough terrain. On a 12-15 kilo mountain bike, I learned to move around, to anticipate terrain changes, and to time my movements.

Those skills transferred quite easily to a larger motorcycle. The main difference was the weight, which shifted the timing of everything. But the basic riding position and fundamental skills were already there from mountain biking.

So, I believe that any kind of training on a small two-wheeled machine is incredibly beneficial. Ideally, everyone who wants to get into adventure riding should have a small dirt bike or trial bike to play around with and develop those fundamental skills.

The “One Bike” Reality: Prioritizing Lightness

However, I know that for many people, the reality is wanting to own just one bike for both practical reasons and budget. We buy that one bike, and we want to start riding it, have fun, and learn. Looking back at my own journey, and knowing what I know now, I would say to myself (and to anyone starting out): get the lightest bike that still meets your essential travel requirements.

If you plan to ride with a passenger regularly, you’ll need a bike that can handle that, which might mean going a bit bigger. Make sure the bike is comfortable enough for the kind of distances you want to cover, but still aim for something as light and manageable as possible.

Because let me tell you, wrestling with a heavy bike in challenging terrain – sand, mud, single-track, steep loose gravel – can quickly take the fun out of riding.

I remember being alone in some tough spots with my heavier bike, genuinely questioning if adventure riding was even for me. It just wasn’t enjoyable anymore. I started doubting my abilities. But then, on a lighter bike like the KTM 500, I was amazed. “Can I actually do this? Am I this good?” The difference was night and day.

I asked Steve in that video, “Did you ever feel like you wanted a bike that weighed 100 kilos more?” The answer, of course, is a resounding no.

The weight difference is huge, especially when you’re still gaining experience. A lot of your energy, particularly in slow-speed off-road situations like sand or technical trails, goes into simply keeping a heavy bike upright.

The Weight Demonstration: Ténéré 700 vs. Lighter Bike

Let’s look at a quick demonstration to illustrate this. Imagine the Ténéré 700. It’s top-heavy, with a lot of weight carried up high. If you’re on a trail and the bike starts to lean, even just a little bit… once it reaches a certain point, you really feel the weight, and you’re struggling to keep it upright, even on tiptoes. And if it leans just a bit further, it starts to feel incredibly heavy, and down you go.

Now, compare that to a lighter bike. It’s a totally different story. Lower weight, lower center of gravity. If it starts to lean, you have so much more time and less effort required to correct it and keep it upright.

Dream Bikes vs. Practical Bikes: Following Your Heart (Within Reason)

So, is it possible to make the perfect “how to choose a bike” video? Honestly, no. It’s impossible to give a one-size-fits-all answer. If you have a dream bike – the bike you’ve been dreaming about for years – and now, after 40, you finally have the chance to get it, then maybe that’s the right bike for you, even if it’s not the objectively “best” choice on paper.

Sometimes, the goal is simply to own and ride that dream bike. Go for it.

I’m definitely someone who chooses bikes with my heart, or maybe my “influenced” heart! And as you start riding, you’ll begin to discover what kind of rider you actually are. You might have different ideas about your riding style before you start compared to what you realize once you get some miles under your belt.

So, be open to changing your opinions and preferences as you gain experience. Make your best effort to choose a good first bike to start with, but be prepared to potentially sell it and get something different later – maybe smaller, maybe bigger, maybe more comfortable, depending on what you learn about your own riding.

Learning by Doing: The Alaska to New Zealand Example

A great example of this “learn as you go” approach is a YouTube channel I’ve been following called Una Moto. It’s about a guy who just got his motorcycle license, bought a bike, made a few modifications, and is now riding from Alaska to New Zealand on that bike. He’s learning and adapting as he goes, encountering all sorts of challenges along the way.

While you might not be planning a round-the-world trip, watching his journey can be really insightful. You can see the kinds of situations he gets into and how he deals with them. It’s a great way to learn and get inspired.

Final Thoughts: Start Riding and Join the Conversation

So, that’s my perspective as someone who started adventure riding a bit later in life. I’m not sure if I’ve made you any smarter with all of this, but hopefully, it’s given you some things to think about. And remember, there are tons of experienced riders in the comments section who can offer their own recommendations and advice.

If you do end up getting a bike, please share your experience in the comments. Join the discussion. And I’ll continue to produce more content on bike choices, riding skills, and everything else related to starting adventure riding after 40.

The post Adventure Bike Guide for Riders Over 40: Choosing Your First Bike first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

Today, we’re diving deep into motorcycle navigation, and I’m going to guide you through a journey from the very basics to a pro-level setup. Forget rigid, one-size-fits-all solutions, because what I’m about to share will likely challenge your initial assumptions. Here are three key unconventional takeaways to keep in mind:

• Your smartphone is a surprisingly capable starting point, but it comes with risk and serious limitations. We’ll explore how to use it effectively, but more importantly, when to recognize its limitations for serious adventure riding.
• Android devices offer a flexibility and ruggedness that Apple currently doesn’t for on-bike navigation. Prepare to reconsider your tech loyalties as we delve into why Android is the right choice for navigation.
• Building a navigation system is modular, not monolithic. You don’t need to jump straight to the most expensive, feature-packed GPS unit. We’ll break down a step-by-step progression, allowing you to upgrade as your needs and riding style evolve.

Let’s explore the world of motorcycle navigation, starting from the ground level and ascending to the heights of advanced setups.

If you’d rather watch this guide, here’s my original video on the topic:

Navigation Options: Beyond the Beaten Path

Before we chart our course through my preferred navigation journey, let’s quickly survey the landscape of available options. It’s good to know what’s out there, even the seemingly old-fashioned methods.

Paper Maps: The Old School Charm

Yes, paper maps. In this digital age, it might seem almost comical to even mention them, conjuring images of navigating by the stars and compass. And while I’m not personally relying on celestial navigation, I can’t dismiss paper maps entirely. In fact, I always bring one along on my trips.

They are not about replacing technology, but rather offering a unique, almost social advantage. Pulling out a paper map is a fantastic icebreaker. It’s an invitation for locals to gather around, offer advice, and share their insights on the best routes and hidden gems.

In a world increasingly dominated by screens, a paper map becomes a tangible, human connection to the place you’re exploring. So, while it might not be your primary navigation tool, don’t rule out the humble paper map. It’s more valuable than you might think.

Dedicated GPS Devices: The Single-Purpose Box

Then we have dedicated GPS devices. These are purpose-built gadgets designed solely for navigation. They remind me a bit of those old handheld game devices from my childhood – you know, the kind where you bought a separate device for each game. If you wanted more functionality, you had to buy another box.

Back in the 90s, I was a proper tech enthusiast, just like I am now. I had my Nokia phone, my Palm Pilot, a MiniDisc player for music, and, of course, a dedicated GPS device. Like this Garmin.

Garmin Zumo XT Motorcycle GPS

Rugged GPS with a bright 5.5” display, built for any adventure.

Pros:

• Durable and weather-resistant (IPX7)
• Preloaded on-road and off-road maps
• Hands-free calling and live traffic updates

Cons:

• Limited battery life at max brightness (but supports bike plug-in)

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Even then, I had this vision of the future where all these separate gadgets would somehow merge into one magical device. Fast forward just a few years and a few pounds of gadgets lighter, and here we are – the smartphone era.

From Smartphone Simplicity to Professional Setups

Now, let’s get into the nitty-gritty of my navigation progression, starting with the device most of us already have in our pockets: the smartphone. We’ll then gradually move towards more specialized and robust solutions.

Step 1: The Smartphone Starter Kit

The beauty of a smartphone for navigation is its versatility. Unlike a dedicated GPS unit, your phone isn’t limited to just one navigation app. The app stores are brimming with options, allowing you to pick and choose based on your riding style and needs. You can experiment with different apps, even use multiple ones depending on the type of riding you’re doing.

There’s a whole ecosystem of navigation apps out there. Many of the popular ones offer both online and offline map capabilities. Offline maps are crucial, especially when you venture into areas with no cellular service.

Many also provide online planning tools, allowing you to meticulously plot your routes on a computer and then seamlessly sync them to your phone. Whether you’re an Apple iOS or Android user, you’ll find a plethora of compatible apps, and some even offer integration with systems like CarPlay.

Personally, I find myself frequently using a few key apps: Stegra.io, DMD2 (which we’ll delve into more later), and good old Google Maps.

For the casual rider, the setup is incredibly simple: mount your phone, plug it into a charger, launch your navigation app, and ride. This is perfectly adequate for sunshine weekend rides, shorter trips in good weather, and familiar routes. But, as you push your riding further, venture into more challenging conditions, or rely more heavily on navigation, the limitations of this basic setup will start to surface.

The Smartphone Drawbacks: When Things Get Real

Using your personal phone for navigation works great, until it doesn’t. And the issues tend to arise when you need your navigation the most – in challenging conditions or when things go wrong.

The biggest problem is that your phone is your lifeline. It’s your communication hub, your wallet, your camera – everything.

Let’s paint a little scenario: Imagine you’re riding a challenging trail, pushing your limits, and then… whoops. Down you go, bike and all, tumbling into a ravine. Your first thought? “I need to call for help!” But wait… where’s your phone? Still mounted on the bike, probably somewhere at the bottom of that ravine. Not ideal.

Beyond catastrophic crashes, even everyday rain presents significant challenges. Touchscreens and rain are not friends. Raindrops on the screen make it difficult, sometimes impossible, to operate the touchscreen, especially with riding gloves on. You need to keep the screen relatively dry to maintain any semblance of control. And raindrops themselves can be misinterpreted as touch inputs, causing phantom taps and triggering unintended actions on your phone. Apps might close, routes might change, chaos can ensue.

While a waterproof case can mitigate some of the rain issues, it introduces another problem: charging. Standard cable chargers and rain are a recipe for disaster. Moisture in the phone’s charging port can halt charging altogether. On a long day of riding, especially with power-hungry navigation apps running, your battery will drain. And once it’s dead, it’s dead until that charging port is completely dry, as phones often refuse to charge with any moisture detected in the port.

To address the charging in wet conditions, wireless charging mounts are a good step up. You simply place your phone on the mount, and it charges inductively, without a direct port connection. Pair this with a port plug to physically block water ingress into the charging port, and you’re in much better shape for wet weather riding.

Finally, vibration is a silent but significant threat to your smartphone, especially if you have a newer model with advanced camera stabilization. These cameras have incredibly sensitive internal mechanics. Prolonged exposure to motorcycle vibrations, particularly on rough roads, is known to damage these stabilization systems, potentially ruining your phone’s camera.

So, if you’re sticking with your smartphone for navigation, invest in a quality vibration-damping mount. It’s a small price to pay to protect your expensive and essential device.

In summary, for smartphone navigation step one, prioritize a vibration-damping mount and explore wireless charging solutions with a charging port plug for wet weather. This will extend the usability of your phone as a navigation device, but it’s still not a perfect long-term solution for serious adventure riding.

Quad Lock Phone Mount System

The best phone mount on the market. Quick to mount / unmount, minimal on the motorcycle, and super secure. Just make sure you get the mount, case, and all-important vibration dampener!

Pros:

• Easy one hand operation
• Super strong hold
• Great vibration dampener
• Super customizable (mounts, wireless chargers)

Cons:

• Viewing angle not adjustable

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Step 2: Dedicated Android Device – Embracing Ruggedness

Step two involves a shift in philosophy. We move your personal phone to a safe pocket on your body and introduce a dedicated device specifically for motorcycle navigation. This could be any spare phone or tablet you have lying around, or a new, budget-friendly device purchased solely for this purpose.

The key here is that it’s separate from your primary phone, so camera vibration damage becomes less of a concern, and if it gets damaged or lost on a ride, you still have your main communication device.

Now, for the potentially controversial part: I recommend going with an Android device for your dedicated motorcycle navigator. I know, I know, Apple aficionados might be bristling right now, but hear me out.

The core reason for leaning towards Android is ruggedness and device variety. Apple’s product line-up simply doesn’t offer devices suited for the rigors of motorcycle mounting and outdoor use. They have the iPhone, which we’ve already discussed the limitations of, and the iPad, which is too large and not designed for harsh environments. There are no ruggedized iPads or iPhones readily available.

Android, on the other hand, has a vast ecosystem of manufacturers producing rugged devices. From brands like Ulefone to Samsung with their Galaxy Active Tab series, you have a range of tablets and phones specifically built to withstand drops, water, dust, and vibrations.

SAMSUNG Galaxy Tab Active5

A rugged, high-performance tablet built for industrial and field work.

Pros:

• Water, dust, and shock resistant
• 5G ready for fast streaming and downloads
• Replaceable battery for all-day power

Cons:

• More expensive than regular tablets

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This is the approach famously adopted by Itchy Boots. She uses a rugged Android tablet running OsmAnd, a popular offline navigation app. A dedicated Android device opens up possibilities for a more permanent and robust mounting system, along with reliable, hard-wired charging directly from your bike’s power.

Another significant advantage of Android is its open nature. Android allows developers deeper system access compared to iOS. This enables specialized motorcycle navigation apps to take over the entire device interface, creating a dedicated “drive mode” or dashboard experience. Apps like DMD2 can transform an Android tablet into a fully customized motorcycle computer. Upon startup, you’re greeted with a bike-centric dashboard, displaying relevant information and navigation tools immediately.

I plan to create a separate video delving into navigation software and planning tools, as today’s focus is more on the hardware side. However, it’s worth emphasizing the software flexibility Android provides.

Even with a dedicated Android tablet like a Samsung Galaxy Active Tab, we still face the challenge of water droplets on the screen. While these tablets are rugged and water-resistant to a degree, they aren’t designed for constant, direct rainfall on the touchscreen while in operation. Raindrops can still trigger unwanted inputs and disrupt navigation, although rugged tablets are generally more resistant to this than standard smartphones.

Some apps offer features to lock parts of the screen to prevent accidental touches. I’ve experimented with these, but in heavy rain, it’s still possible for a persistent raindrop to find that one crucial button in the corner and cause issues. For truly uncompromising wet weather performance, we need to move to the next level.

But before we move on, I want to briefly mention CarPlay devices. With your phone safely tucked away, you could consider a standalone CarPlay unit. Some motorcycles even come with integrated CarPlay support in their factory displays. CarPlay essentially mirrors your iPhone’s interface onto a separate screen. Devices like the CapriRide unit act as intermediaries, displaying your phone’s CarPlay interface.

While CarPlay offers a familiar interface, I’m not personally a huge fan for dedicated motorcycle navigation. My preference stems from app limitations. Not all navigation apps are compatible with CarPlay, and even those that are can sometimes be buggy or less feature-rich compared to their standalone versions.

2025 CARPURIDE 9 Inch Car Play Screen

A feature-packed upgrade for any vehicle.

Pros:

• Wireless and wired Apple CarPlay & Android Auto
• Real-time GPS navigation with a 9” HD touchscreen
• Hands-free voice control with Siri & Google Assistant

Cons:

• Backup camera not included

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I prefer the dedicated and fully customizable experience of running a navigation system directly on a device mounted to the bike. However, CarPlay can be a viable option for riders already heavily invested in the Apple ecosystem and who prioritize simplicity and familiarity.

Step 3: Purpose-Built Motorcycle Navigation – The Thork T865

Step 3 is where we transition to devices and mounting systems specifically engineered for the demands of off-road motorcycle adventuring. This brings us to the Thork Racing T865 tablet.

Yes, the T865 is also an Android tablet, but it’s a different breed altogether. When I say it’s “made for motorcycling and navigation,” I mean it’s designed from the ground up to address the specific challenges we face as riders.

Consider the GPS receiver. Compared to a typical tablet like a Samsung Active Tab, the T865’s GPS circuit updates its position a staggering 10 times per second. Standard tablets usually update just once per second. This tenfold increase in GPS update frequency translates to significantly smoother and more accurate tracking, especially in demanding off-road environments where quick changes in direction are common.

Another key differentiator is the inclusion of physical, programmable hardware buttons on the top of the device. Standard tablets lack these dedicated buttons. On the T865, these buttons are a game-changer. I’ve programmed one button to activate a unique screen lock feature. Unlike typical screen locks that just dim the display, this lock completely disables all touch input. Once activated, the screen becomes impervious to rain, accidental touches, or anything else. The only way to re-enable the screen is by pressing the hardware button again. This effectively eliminates rain-induced navigation chaos, if you choose to use it.

The T865 also comes pre-installed with DMD2 (Drive Mode Dashboard 2), a powerful and highly customizable motorcycle navigation software. This means you have access to advanced features, offline maps, roadbook capabilities, and a dedicated motorcycle dashboard right out of the box. I won’t delve into all the DMD2 features in this video, but it’s a comprehensive navigation solution tailored for adventure riders.

Being an Android device, the T865 retains Android’s inherent versatility. You’re not locked into DMD2. You can install and use any other Android navigation app you prefer.

Want to run Stegra alongside DMD2? No problem.

Need access to weather apps or satellite imagery? It’s all possible.

The customization is extensive. I’ve even programmed the hardware buttons to quickly switch between different navigation apps – one press for DMD2, another for Stegra, for example. You can seamlessly transition between different navigation styles, even rally roadbook navigation, all on one device.

While you can purchase DMD2 software separately and install it on any Android phone or tablet, the Thork T865 package offers a significant advantage: lifetime DMD2 license included with the hardware purchase. It’s a one-time payment for both the dedicated hardware and the premium software, forever.

The T865 also comes with a complete installation kit, including a robust power harness with bayonet connectors for easy and secure wiring to your bike’s electrical system. Mounting solutions are also readily available specifically designed for the T865. Compared to rigging up a generic tablet, the T865 offers a much more integrated and professional installation experience.

Step 4: Pro-Level Navigation – Modules and Control

Now we arrive at the “full Monty Pro level.” This step is about maximizing the potential of a dedicated motorcycle navigation setup like the Thork T865 by adding modular accessories. You already have the core – the rugged, motorcycle-specific device and screen. Now we enhance its functionality and control.

The first, and in my opinion, most transformative module is a handlebar controller.

The handlebar controller I use is the Thork Racing DMD Remote 2. While other brands and models exist, I’ve found this one particularly well-suited to my needs. It features a joystick on top and two buttons. The joystick is perfect for map zooming and panning, or for roadbook scrolling in rally navigation.

Using a handlebar controller becomes incredibly intuitive. You can manipulate the navigation interface – zoom in and out, pan across the map, switch between screens, navigate menus – all with your thumb, without ever taking your hands off the grips or your eyes off the road. It’s a true game-changer in terms of control and safety, especially in challenging riding conditions.

The handlebar controller also unlocks the full potential of the T865’s screen lock feature. You can keep the screen locked and impervious to rain or accidental touches at all times, relying solely on the handlebar controller for all navigation interactions.

Another powerful accessory to consider is an OBD (On-Board Diagnostics) reader. Thork Racing offers a dedicated OBD reader designed for seamless integration with their system, although compatible readers from other brands can also be used.

The Thork OBD reader is designed with motorcycle use in mind, featuring rapid data update frequency and intelligent auto shut-off to prevent battery drain when the bike is off.

Connecting an OBD reader allows you to tap into your bike’s ECU (Engine Control Unit) and display real-time bike data directly within the DMD2 navigation system.

Let’s fire up the bike and see it in action.

Bike data isn’t confined to a separate data screen. You can overlay data fields directly onto the navigation map. For example, I can choose to display coolant temperature or any other available bike parameter directly on the map screen, keeping critical information in my line of sight. The specific data available depends on your motorcycle model and what its ECU broadcasts.

Beyond live data, an OBD reader can also be used to read and clear engine error codes. If a warning light pops up on your dash while you’re on a trip, you can use the DMD2 system to diagnose the issue and potentially clear the code, which can be incredibly helpful when you’re far from service centers.

Finally, let’s talk tire pressure monitoring. I’m using TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) sensors that replace the valve caps on my tires. These are small, screw-on sensors.

With these sensors installed, real-time tire pressure readings are transmitted wirelessly to the DMD2 system and displayed on the T865 screen. I can see my front tire pressure at 1.8 bar and the rear at 2.2 bar, for example. Like the OBD data, tire pressure information can be overlaid on the map or displayed in dedicated data screens. I also have tire pressures displayed persistently at the top of the screen, visible on every page, so I always have that information at a glance.

I’m a big fan of this modular approach. The Thork system is constantly evolving, with new features, modules, and possibilities being added. It’s a system you can grow with, adding functionality as your needs expand and technology advances.

I hope this overview has been helpful and perhaps shed some light on the different levels of motorcycle navigation. Of course, Garmin and CarPlay devices, and even paper maps, all have their place and are still preferred by many riders. This is simply my journey and my perspective. Take what resonates with you and build the navigation setup that best suits your riding style and adventures.

The post Motorcycle Navigation: From Smartphone to Pro Modular Setups first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

When you’re starting out riding, there’s so much gear you think you need, and cost is always a factor. I’ve trimmed down what I need drastically, and plan to share that with you today.

There are basically two main things to consider when gearing up, no matter what: protection. First, protection from impacts and accidents, obviously. Second, protection from the elements – weather, cold, heat, everything in between. And as adventure riders, we’re also trying to pack light. So, if your riding gear can also work when you’re off the bike, that’s a huge bonus.

Before we get into specific items, let’s talk about protection in general, because it’s the most important thing. I was looking at some accident statistics recently, and there’s a difference between road riding and off-road riding injuries. As adventure riders, we’re kind of in the middle of those two worlds.

If you’d rather watch this guide, here’s my original video on the topic:

Road vs. Off-Road Injuries: What to Consider

Looking at road riding statistics, the most common injury is road rash. That’s from falling off and sliding on the asphalt, basically skin abrasions. Number two is…

Number two is broken bones and dislocations. Number three was injuries to legs and feet.  And then, head and neck injuries were also significant. So, road rash is the primary concern for road riders.

Now, when you look at off-road riders, especially enduro riders, the most frequent injury is fractures and displacements. These are mainly in the upper body, just over 50%, and slightly under 50% for lower body fractures and displacements. Head injuries, mostly concussions, were lower down, around 9% I think.

So, how do we protect ourselves in both of these scenarios? For road rash, the number one road injury, we need gear that’s abrasion-resistant.  That’s the first thing I look for. Then, for fractures, displacements, and impact injuries – broken ribs, internal organ damage, and things like that – these are much harder to guard against.  If you crash hard, hitting a tree or something similar, gear can only do so much.

It goes without saying that the best protection is using your common sense and not riding beyond your abilities. I’ve been pretty lucky to avoid serious injuries. I had one incident where I got hurt, and that was riding too early in the season on icy ruts. I slipped and dislocated my shoulder when I landed on my armpit. There isn’t really any armor that can protect you from that kind of impact.

For me, the key areas to protect are my head and my feet. A helmet is essential for any head impact, it’s the most vulnerable part. And I like to have really solid foot protection, which we’ll get into when we talk about boots. Then, there’s the standard armor for elbows, shoulders, back, and so on, to protect from impacts.

You can get the absolute most protective gear out there, but I prefer to balance protection with comfort and rely on smart riding to minimize risks. There’s also the growing popularity of air vests, which have a good track record for reducing injuries, especially those high-speed impact injuries affecting internal organs and ribs. Air vests are definitely a good option for that kind of protection. I haven’t tried one myself yet, so I can’t speak from personal experience.

Two Gear Philosophies: Suits vs. Layering System

There are generally two approaches to motorcycle gear. One is the classic motorcycle suit – jacket and pants all in one, with the outer layer and all the armor integrated. Everything is in one complete suit. But I find suits quite limiting. You’re stuck wearing that big jacket all the time, regardless of the weather – sun, rain, cold, hot, you name it. I find that restrictive, and they can also be quite expensive. Plus, you’re kind of locked into that suit for a few years.

The approach I started with and have been using ever since is based on an armor jacket as the core protection.

Armor Jacket: The Foundation of My Gear System

I use the Knox Urban Pro jacket. It has a double-A abrasion resistance rating, which is excellent protection against road rash. It’s also mesh, which is great for breathability.

Because it’s just mesh and armor, I can wear any normal top over it. If it’s really hot, I’ll often just wear this with a t-shirt underneath (unless you want to show off a bit too much!). In hot weather, this is my go-to setup.

Knox Urbane Pro Jacket

Pros:

• CE Level 2 armor (shoulders, elbows, back)
• AA-rated abrasion protection
• Lightweight & breathable for hot weather

Cons:

• Not waterproof

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For a little wind protection, I might throw on an MX jersey over the armor jacket.

This is perfect for a slightly cooler summer day. And for rain protection, I just use a basic rain jacket from a sporting goods store. I think I paid around 40 euros for it.

My philosophy is to invest in the protection closest to your body. There are also armored pants available, which I don’t currently use, that offer abrasion resistance for your legs. We’ll talk more about pants later.  But with the armor jacket, I can layer pretty much anything over it. Oh, Niklas, you left this wind jacket in my garage last time – perfect! I can just throw this on top.  Anything works really.

One thing my armor jacket setup lacks is chest protection. If you hit something hard, you could get a chest impact. Knox does offer a chest protector that can be added to this jacket. This particular armor jacket is getting a bit worn now, so I’m planning to get a new one soon.  I’m thinking of trying the Adventure Spec Super Shirt. My friend Mattias uses one and likes it. I want to try some different things.

Let’s move on to lower body protection now.

Knee Protection: Two Options for Different Rides

Let’s look at knee protection. I use two different types, depending on the kind of riding I’m doing. For more serious off-road riding, I use braces like the Leatt Knee & Shin Guard Z-Frame.

Leatt Z-Frame Knee Braces

High-performance knee braces with reinforced protection and a comfortable, adjustable fit.

Pros:

• Strong aluminum & fiberglass protection
• Adjustable, comfortable fit
• CE-certified impact protection

Cons:

• Slightly stiff, less flexible than soft knee guards

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These are larger, more robust knee protectors with a lot of armor. They give really comprehensive protection all the way down the shin. They are designed to go inside your boots for a secure fit and to protect your lower legs. Really, really good protection for tough off-road conditions.

For longer adventure rides, especially those with less intense off-road sections, I use something a bit less bulky. These are softer and more comfortable for longer days in the saddle. They don’t protect quite as far down the shin, just a few centimeters less.

Normally, I would wear a base layer underneath these knee protectors, for comfort and hygiene. Unless it’s incredibly hot, I always wear a base layer. The knee protection goes on top of the base layer.

Pants: Balancing Comfort, Protection, and Weather

When it comes to pants, my approach is a bit different than with jackets. It’s easier to layer and change things on your upper body. With pants, especially with boots on, changing layers is more of a hassle.

For summertime riding, I typically use outdoor-style pants, like these Mosko Woodsmen pants. They don’t have built-in armor, but they are abrasion-resistant.

These are what I usually wear in the summer. I don’t mind getting a little wet because they dry quickly when the sun comes out and the wind is blowing. Non-waterproof pants are comfortable on and off the bike. If I know it’s going to rain for days, I’ll pack rain pants. But I only put rain pants on if it’s going to be consistently rainy all day. Stopping to put on rain pants, especially with motorcycle boots, is a bit of a chore. So, normally, I just stick with these lighter pants.

However, if you’re only going to buy one pair of really good adventure pants to start with, I’d recommend fully waterproof pants. Then you don’t need to worry about separate rain pants. The downside is that waterproof pants, regardless of brand or model, don’t ventilate well in really hot weather. Waterproof, all-weather pants will not keep you cool in extreme heat.

There’s also the style of pant leg to consider: in-the-boot versus over-the-boot. These Mosko Moto Woodsmen pants are an in-the-boot style.

In-The-Boot vs. Over-The-Boot Pants

In-the-boot pants, like these, are designed to go inside your motorcycle boots. This is really convenient off the bike. When you take your boots off and put on regular shoes, you don’t have wide, flapping pant legs. They look and feel more like normal pants when you’re not wearing boots.

The downside of in-the-boot pants is riding in the rain. Even with waterproof boots, rain can run down your legs and into your boots. Even splashing through puddles can get water inside. So, in-the-boot pants are great for comfort off the bike, but they can be less ideal for staying dry and keeping your feet dry in wet conditions.

Over-the-boot pants, on the other hand, naturally cover the top part of your boots. This provides better rain protection because water is less likely to run directly into your boots.

Boots: MX vs. Adventure and Waterproof Considerations

Let’s talk about boots. There are MX-style boots and adventure-style boots. MX boots are made for serious off-road riding, like enduro, and they provide the most foot protection. Your feet are very vulnerable to injury when riding off-road. You might be paddling with your feet, get them caught on a root, hit a rock, or if you fall, the bike could land on your feet. Feet are very prone to injuries.

MX boots offer maximum protection, but adventure boots are generally more comfortable to walk around in. Adventure boots are softer, and the soles are more flexible. MX boots are more like walking in ski boots – stiff and less comfortable for walking.

Personally, I really prioritize foot and lower leg protection. Should you choose waterproof or non-waterproof boots? Waterproof boots will keep you dry in light rain and when walking through shallow puddles. But on a longer adventure, you’re likely to get wet inside waterproof boots anyway. Water can get in from the top, especially if you’re riding in heavy rain or crossing deeper water. It’s not always avoidable. I’ve always managed to get my waterproof boots wet somehow!

With non-waterproof boots, you might feel a little dampness if you ride through a puddle. Waterproof boots are nice in theory, right? But if waterproof boots get wet inside, they take a very long time to dry.  You might not get rid of the moisture for your entire trip. Non-waterproof boots, on the other hand, will dry out much quicker.

So, my solution is to use waterproof socks. Or, if you’re really on a budget, you can even use plastic kitchen bags over your socks inside your boots. But waterproof socks like Sealskinz or similar brands are a good option.

SEALSKINZ Raynham Unisex Waterproof Socks

Waterproof, windproof, and breathable gloves for all-weather protection.

Pros:

• 100% waterproof and windproof design
• Breathable for comfort during long wear
• Thermal insulation for warmth in cold conditions

Cons:

• Slightly bulky, reducing dexterity for fine tasks

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Gloves and Helmet: Finishing Touches

For gloves, I usually have a pair of basic enduro gloves for more technical riding. These are quite inexpensive, around 20 to 30 euros.

For general riding, I use more traditional motorcycle gloves. These are Knox Handroid Pod MK4 gloves.  I’ve really enjoyed them. They’re cool in the summer and work very well.

For helmets, honestly, just get a good helmet that you like and that fits well. There’s not too much to overthink. The helmet I’m currently using is the Klim Krios Pro. 

It’s been great, but after four years of a lot of travel, it’s getting worn out. I’ll be getting a new helmet soon. I’m not sure if I can afford another Krios Pro, they’re quite expensive now. But yeah, just prioritize a good helmet that fits your head properly.

KLIM Krios Pro Motorcycle Helmet

Lightweight adventure helmet with versatility for street, light adventure, and hard enduro riding.

Pros:

• Carbon fiber shell for ultra-lightweight durability
• Quick release (no tools) shield and visor. Supports goggles.
• Big forehead vent
• Transitions photochromic face shield included
• DOT and ECE 22.06 certified

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Smart and Economical Gearing Up: My Summary

To sum things up, when you’re starting adventure riding, focus on the core protection first: helmet, gloves, and a good armor jacket and knee protection. By using a layering system, your protective base layer can last for years. Then, you can update the outer layers, which are generally less expensive. This is a more economical approach than buying one super expensive, all-in-one suit that you’re stuck with for years.

Remember, these videos are not about telling you to buy exactly what I have. I’m just showing you my gear and my approach, so you can pick and choose what works for you and maybe decide what not to do based on my experiences.

Next time, we’ll take a look at luggage and camping equipment.

The post Adventure Motorcycle Gear Guide: Save Money and Layer! first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

Here are three unconventional truths about your motorcycle suspension that you need to grasp right now:

1. Your stock suspension is probably better than you think. Before you rush out to buy expensive upgrades, give your current setup a chance. A proper setup of your existing suspension can make a world of difference.
2. Sag is everything. If you ignore sag, you’re missing the most fundamental aspect of suspension tuning. Seriously, if you don’t at least think about sag after reading this, I haven’t done my job.
3. Preload is your best friend (for free!). Forget complex adjustments for a moment. Just understanding and using preload correctly can dramatically improve your ride, especially when you load up your bike for a trip.

Think of it like this: your coffee machine is set up for some fancy barista, and your office chair is designed for someone else. Your bike’s suspension? It’s likely set up for a mythical “average” rider, who probably doesn’t exist. Just like you adjust your chair and coffee machine, you need to adjust your suspension. And no, unless you are a 75-kilo Dutch lady (which is who my T7 seemed to be set up for!), the factory settings probably aren’t perfect for you. So stick around, and let’s dive into the world of motorcycle suspension.

If you’d rather watch this guide, here’s my original video on the topic:

Building Suspension from Scratch

Let’s start simple, building a suspension system from the ground up. Imagine your motorcycle frame. Now, let’s add a wheel. If we just weld that wheel directly to the frame, we’re in for a very bumpy ride. Every imperfection in the road would be directly transmitted to you. Not ideal.

To improve this, we hinge the wheel to the frame using a swingarm. Now, the wheel can move up and down independently of the frame. Much better, right? But there’s still a problem.

If we put the bike on the ground now, the swingarm will just pivot, and the bike will collapse. We need something to support the bike and allow for controlled movement. That’s where the spring comes in.

The Spring: The Heart of the System

The spring is the first crucial component of our suspension. By placing a spring between the bike’s frame and the swingarm, we prevent the bike from collapsing and introduce the ability to absorb bumps.

Now, we need to consider sag. Sag is simply how much the suspension compresses when you sit on the bike. It’s a critical measurement because it dictates how much suspension travel is available for bump absorption and affects your bike’s handling.

Why Sag Matters

Too much sag, and you’ll use up too much suspension travel just sitting on the bike. This leaves less travel to absorb bumps, potentially leading to a harsh ride and bottoming out. On the other hand, too little sag (or no sag) means the wheel can’t extend downwards to follow dips and holes in the road. Remember, suspension isn’t just for comfort. It’s crucial for maintaining traction by keeping the wheel in contact with the road surface at all times. Suspension also heavily influences handling, affecting braking, cornering, and overall stability.

Most motorcycle manuals provide recommended sag values, both for the front and rear suspension. A general rule of thumb is around 30% of the total suspension travel as rider sag. This means that when the suspension is fully extended, and you sit on the bike, it should compress about 30% of its total travel.

This is why spring rate, or spring stiffness, is so important. It’s not just about comfort. Incorrect sag due to the wrong spring rate dramatically affects handling.

Too much rear sag, and your bike will feel stable at high speeds but sluggish in corners.

Too little sag, and the front end will be lower, making the bike turn in quickly in technical sections but feel unstable and wobbly at higher speeds.

Preload: Fine-Tuning for Weight

Okay, you’ve got your spring, and the sag is (hopefully) close to correct. But what happens when you decide to load up your bike for a trip, adding luggage and maybe a passenger? Suddenly, your carefully set sag is completely off. It’s sagging way too much.

Do you need to swap out your spring every time you change your load? Thankfully, no. That’s where preload comes to the rescue. Preload is an adjustment that compresses the spring before you even sit on the bike.

Think of it this way: a spring has a spring rate, often measured in Newtons per millimeter (N/mm) or kilograms per millimeter (kg/mm).

Let’s use kg/mm for simplicity. A spring rate of 1 kg/mm means that it compresses 1mm for every 1 kilogram of force applied. It’s linear, so 2kg compresses it 2mm, and so on.

Now, if you preload the spring by compressing it, say, 3mm using a preload adjustment, it will take 3 kilograms of force just to start moving the spring. Without preload, it would react to even the smallest weight. By adding preload, you essentially shift the spring’s working range, making it support more weight before compressing into the sag zone.

So, when you add luggage or a passenger, you can increase preload to compensate for the extra weight and bring your sag back to the correct range. This is why preload adjusters are often designed to be easily accessible and adjustable, sometimes even without tools.

Setting Sag: A Practical Approach

How do you actually set the correct sag? While there are fancy tools, a simple method works just fine. You need to measure the suspension travel in three states: fully extended, bike weight only (free sag), and with rider and gear (rider sag).

For my bike, I use a piece of cord with a screw and two markers. The screw goes into a hole in the axle. I mark a point on the rear fender with some tape. First, I lift the rear wheel off the ground to get the fully extended measurement. This is my starting point, the first marker on my cord.

Then, I measure down 6cm (60mm) from that point on the cord and make a second marker. Why 6cm? My bike, a Ténéré 700, has 200mm of rear suspension travel, and 30% of 200mm is 60mm. This 60mm represents my target rider sag.

Now, with all my riding gear on, I sit on the bike in my normal riding position. I check the position of the second marker on the cord relative to the mark on the fender. If the cord’s marker is above the fender mark, I have too much sag. If it’s below, I have too little.

On my Ténéré 700, the preload adjuster is a large, easily accessible knob. This is designed for frequent adjustments. You turn it to compress or release the spring, changing the preload and therefore the sag. There’s no single “magic” preload setting. It depends entirely on the weight on the bike. Adjust it as needed!

Spring Rate vs. Preload: Knowing the Difference

It’s tempting to think, “If my spring is too soft, can’t I just crank up the preload to get the right sag?” The answer is yes, to a degree, but it’s not ideal. A spring that is fundamentally too weak for your weight will have other negative characteristics beyond just sag. It might compress too easily through its travel, feel “mushy,” and not perform optimally.

If you use too much preload on a weak spring to achieve the correct rider sag, you might end up lifting the entire bike higher than intended. This can negatively affect handling and geometry. This leads us to the concept of free sag.

Rider sag (or race sag) is the sag measurement with you and your gear on the bike – the one we’ve been focusing on so far. Free sag is how much the bike sags under its own weight, without you on it. After setting rider sag with preload, you should check free sag. There should be a noticeable amount of free sag, indicating that the suspension is not completely topped out by excessive preload.

A small amount of free sag, around an inch or 2.5cm, suggests that the spring rate is reasonably well-matched to your weight and that the preload adjustment is within a good range. If there’s virtually no free sag, even with minimal preload, it’s a strong indication that your spring is too stiff. Conversely, if you need maximum preload to achieve correct rider sag and still have excessive free sag, your spring is likely too soft.

With the right spring rate and properly set sag, you’re halfway to a well-sorted suspension. But if we went riding now, we’d have another problem: a bouncy, uncontrolled ride. That’s where the damper comes in.

The Damper: Controlling Motion

The spring stores and releases energy, but on its own, it oscillates wildly. The damper’s job is to control this motion, preventing the “pogo stick” effect. Dampers use hydraulic resistance to slow down suspension movement, both during compression and rebound.

Imagine a syringe filled with oil. Pushing the plunger is easy with air, harder with water, and even harder with thicker oil. The resistance to movement depends on the fluid viscosity and the size of the opening the fluid is forced through. Motorcycle dampers work on the same principle. They consist of a cylinder filled with oil, a piston, and valves with adjustable orifices.

By adjusting the size of the valve openings, we control the speed at which oil can flow through the damper. Smaller openings create more resistance and slower movement; larger openings allow faster movement. There are two primary damper adjustments: compression and rebound.

Compression damping controls the speed at which the suspension compresses when encountering a bump. Rebound damping controls the speed at which the suspension extends back to its original position after compression. These adjustments are typically made using clickers or screws on the suspension components.

Adjusting Compression and Rebound

Unlike preload, which is easily measured and set based on sag, compression and rebound adjustments are more about feel and fine-tuning. Your bike likely came with factory settings for compression and rebound, usually listed in the owner’s manual.

These settings are a good starting point. They are often expressed in “clicks” from the fully closed position. For example, the manual might specify “9 clicks out” for rear compression damping. This means you turn the adjuster clockwise until it’s fully closed, then counter-clockwise 9 clicks.

Compression Damping: If your suspension bottoms out too easily on big bumps or feels too soft and dives excessively under braking or in corners, you might need to increase compression damping. Increasing compression damping makes it harder for the suspension to compress, providing more support.

Rebound Damping: Rebound damping is perhaps the trickier adjustment. Too little rebound damping can make the ride feel bouncy or shaky, as the suspension springs back too quickly after compression. Too much rebound damping, and the suspension can “pack down.” This happens when the suspension compresses on a bump but doesn’t extend back out quickly enough before encountering the next bump. Over time, the suspension effectively gets “stuck” lower in its travel, reducing available suspension and making the ride harsh.

Rebound is the adjustment I typically touch the least. Once I find a setting that works well, I usually leave it alone. Compression damping, however, I might adjust more frequently depending on the type of riding. For technical, rough terrain, I might increase compression damping for more support on bigger hits. For smoother gravel touring, I might soften the compression to improve small bump compliance and comfort.

Key Takeaways: Suspension Simplified

So, what are the main points to remember?

1. Prioritize Spring Rate and Sag: Get the correct spring rate for your weight and set your sag properly. This is the foundation of good suspension performance.
2. Utilize Preload: Use preload to fine-tune sag for varying loads. It’s a simple and effective adjustment.
3. Understand Compression and Rebound: Experiment with compression damping to control bottoming and dive. Adjust rebound damping cautiously to prevent a bouncy ride or packing down.

Before you consider expensive suspension upgrades, take the time to understand and adjust your stock suspension. You might be surprised at how much improvement you can achieve just by properly setting it up. For Ténéré 700 owners, especially pre-2023 models like mine, you can even try my personal suspension settings as a starting point. Just adjusting the clickers can unlock a lot of hidden potential in your stock suspension and demonstrate that you can achieve a much better feel without immediately spending money on aftermarket components – except perhaps for springs if needed.

Get your springs and sag sorted first. Then you can think about all the fancy suspension upgrades and bling for your bike. It’s all about getting the basics right first.

Thanks for reading! I hope this has demystified motorcycle suspension for you. Leave your questions and comments below, and feel free to correct any mistakes I’ve made in the comments. Let’s learn together!

The post Motorcycle Suspension: Master Sag, Preload, Damping for Bikes first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

Why camping? Because that’s when you’re hauling the most gear – think cooking equipment, sleeping arrangements, changes of clothes, tools, and everything else you need to be self-sufficient on the road.

Before we get into specific types of luggage, I want to highlight three key takeaways right from the start that might not be immediately obvious but are crucial for setting up your adventure bike for luggage:

1. Weight Placement Trumps Volume: It’s not just about how much you can carry, but where you carry it. The position of your luggage weight drastically affects your bike’s handling. Prioritize keeping weight low and close to the bike’s center for optimal control, especially when venturing off-road.
2. Bigger Doesn’t Mean More Expensive: Choosing a larger luggage system can actually be more cost-effective in the long run, because you won’t be forced to invest in more compact and expensive camping gear just to fit. 
3. Soft Bags Are Safer for Off-Road: While aluminum boxes offer undeniable practicality, soft luggage systems, particularly rackless options, provide a crucial safety advantage when riding off-road. Their ability to give way in a fall can significantly reduce the risk of leg injuries.

These are the principles that have shaped my own luggage choices over years of adventure riding, and they’re what I want to unpack for you today.  Some of what I’ll discuss are objective truths, grounded in physics, but we’ll also explore different luggage systems, and naturally, I’ll share my personal preferences and experiences.  Remember, my choices might not be the perfect fit for you, but my aim is to give you the insights to pick the cherries, so to speak, and make informed decisions for your own adventures.

If you’d rather watch this guide, here’s my original video on the topic.

Weight Placement: The Golden Rule of Luggage

Let’s start with the absolute foundation: weight placement.  When we load up our bikes with gear, the weight and where we position it has a dramatic effect on handling.  Think of it this way: the ideal spot for weight is as low and centered as possible, ideally down by the foot pegs.  That’s essentially where motorcycles are designed to carry weight for optimal balance and handling.

The further we move weight away from those foot pegs, the worse the handling becomes.  Imagine taking weight and shifting it backwards, and further back, and even higher up and further back. That’s exactly what happens when you load up a top box.

Top boxes can be incredibly practical for commuting or road touring, no doubt. But if you have one, especially for adventure riding and particularly for off-road, be absolutely mindful not to put the bulk of your weight in there.  Keep the heaviest items as close to the foot pegs as you can, and you’ll immediately notice a positive difference in how your bike behaves. The closer to the foot pegs, the better – that’s the mantra to remember.

Aluminum Boxes: Practicality vs. Off-Road Safety

Now, let’s talk about aluminum boxes, often called hard panniers or hard cases. They’re undeniably practical. Packing and organizing your gear inside them is straightforward. They offer security, as they can be locked. They’re generally watertight, which is a huge plus, and they’re versatile around camp.  You can take them off the bike and use them as seats, side tables, or even cooking surfaces in a pinch.

However, and this is a big however, you should only really consider aluminum boxes if you’re sticking to primarily on-road riding and very mild off-road at most.  There are two major downsides when you start venturing into more active off-road riding: durability and, more importantly, safety.

When you’re off-road, especially if you’re learning or pushing your limits, falls are part of the game.  Even slow-speed drops and minor crashes are common.  Aluminum boxes, while seemingly tough, react to impacts like a beer can. Once you dent or buckle them, especially on a trip, it can be incredibly difficult to reshape them so they seal properly again, and maintain their structural integrity.

The more critical issue is safety, specifically leg safety.  Off-road riding often involves paddling with your feet for balance in tricky situations, or even putting a foot down to catch yourself. If your leg gets pinned between the ground and a rigid aluminum box in a fall, those boxes aren’t going anywhere.

It’s easy to see how a leg could get trapped and crushed against these hard boxes because they simply don’t give way in a fall.  Leg injuries, sometimes serious ones, are a real risk.  This is the primary reason why, the more serious off-road riding you plan to do, the more strongly I recommend considering soft luggage instead.

But for road riding between campsites, they might be the right choice for you.

For top security on your rides, don’t miss our guide to the best motorcycle locks.

Soft Racked Bags: A Safer, More Flexible Option

Next up are soft, racked luggage systems, often referred to as soft panniers or soft bags with racks.  These offer a significant safety advantage over hard boxes. Because they’re made of fabric, they will give way if you get your leg trapped in a fall, reducing the risk of injury. They offer a degree of impact absorption and are generally more forgiving in crashes.

They still retain some of the practicality of hard boxes.  Many are designed as detachable bags that you can easily remove from the bike and carry into your tent or hotel.  They often feature roll-top closures with waterproof liners, making them effectively waterproof or at least highly water-resistant.  They can also be secured, often with locking straps or cable locks, to deter casual theft, though they’re obviously not as secure as a locked metal box. Packing is generally easy, although organizing smaller items can sometimes require packing cubes or dry bags within the panniers.

A key advantage of soft racked bags is their flexibility.  When they’re not fully packed, or even when empty, they can often be compressed and made smaller, reducing the overall width of your luggage setup. This is a big plus when you’re riding without a full load or navigating tighter trails.

One potential downside of racked soft bags is that, as the name suggests, they require a pannier rack to be mounted on your motorcycle.  This rack adds weight to the bike, although typically less than hard pannier racks. More noticeably, racks add width to your bike, even when the bags are removed.

I’ve seen setups where the racks and bags combined actually make the luggage wider than the handlebars. This is something you absolutely need to be aware of and check. Whatever luggage system you choose, ensure the widest point of your luggage is narrower than your handlebars. Or at least be aware of their width.

Why is this important? Filtering through traffic, navigating tight trails, or even just maneuvering in parking lots becomes a nightmare if your panniers are wider than your bars.  If your handlebars can fit through a gap, you need to be confident your luggage will follow. 

Rackless Systems: My Choice for Versatility and Narrow Profile

Now we come to rackless luggage systems.  This is the style I personally use and prefer for my adventure riding.  The main reason I’m drawn to rackless systems is their versatility and modularity.  Because they don’t require a dedicated rack, you can essentially throw them over almost any motorcycle.

This is a huge advantage.  I can easily move my rackless system between different bikes.  I can lend it to a friend if they need luggage for a trip.  I can use it on my older Suzuki DR650 just as easily as on my Yamaha Ténéré 700.  This adaptability is invaluable if you have multiple bikes or anticipate changing bikes in the future.

Beyond versatility, I also appreciate that rackless systems generally keep the luggage much narrower and closer to the bike’s centerline.  A wide luggage system, regardless of type, can contribute to lateral instability, especially in off-road situations or strong crosswinds.  Keeping the profile narrow improves handling and maneuverability, particularly in technical terrain.

Of course, luggage choice is always a balance of preferences and priorities, and how much gear you want to bring along.  Rackless systems often require a bit more careful packing and organization compared to rigid boxes, but the benefits in terms of versatility, weight savings, and narrow profile are, for me, significant.

My preferred rackless systems are from Mosko Moto.

Hybrid Solutions: Bridging the Gap

There’s also a sort of hybrid approach to luggage, systems that bridge the gap between fully racked soft bags and completely rackless setups. The first set of proper adventure luggage I ever bought falls into this category: the Enduristan Monsoon 3 panniers.

Like rackless bags, these are designed to be thrown over the seat of pretty much any motorcycle.  They work well and are relatively easy to fit and remove.  However, these hybrid bags typically benefit from, or even require, some form of minimal rack or support structure.

The reason for this is stability, especially when riding off-road.  While they don’t need the full, heavy-duty racks of traditional soft panniers, without some support, these bags can flap around quite a bit, particularly the lower sections that hang further out from the bike’s frame.  This flapping can be distracting, and potentially unstable at higher speeds or in rough terrain.

For bags like the Enduristan Monsoon 3, you ideally want to use some kind of mini-rack or side support.  These provide anchor points to strap the bags to, securing them against the bike’s frame and preventing excessive movement.  These mini-racks are typically much lighter and less bulky than full pannier racks, offering a good compromise.

The Monsoon 3 bags were a great starting point for me.  They were relatively lightweight, reasonably priced for their quality, and offered a good amount of volume – 30 liters per side bag, plus a 30-liter top bag, totaling 90 liters of capacity.  That’s a lot of space, though as we’ll discuss next, volume isn’t everything.

Unfortunately the Monsoon 3 are no longer sold, but the Giant Loop Siskiyou gives you an idea for this style – basically two soft panniers with fabric in between that goes over the back of your ADV bike’s seat.

Giant Loop Siskiyou Hybrid Saddlebags

These hybrid soft/rackless saddlebags can be used with or without a luggage rack.

Pros:

• Light and flexible
• Large at 35L capacity per side
• Simple to switch bikes

Cons:

• May swing in to the wheel, requiring a rack

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Volume: More Isn’t Always Better

Let’s shift gears and talk about volume.  Regardless of the type of luggage system you choose – aluminum boxes, soft racked bags, rackless, or hybrid – volume is a critical consideration.  It’s tempting to think “more is better,” but that’s not necessarily the case, especially for adventure motorcycling.

I currently use the Mosko Moto Reckless 40 system, which, as the name suggests, offers 40 liters of total capacity.  Recently, I borrowed Mattias’ 80-liter system, effectively double the volume of my usual setup.  Interestingly, I discovered that, for my style of riding and camping, using the smaller 40-liter system actually ended up being more expensive than using the 80-liter system in some ways.

Let me explain. When I first started adventure camping, I was on a budget, especially for camping gear.  My sleeping arrangements, in particular, were budget-oriented. I had a decent but bulky and heavy tent, weighing around three kilos.  My sleeping bag was synthetic (reader: cheaper), and my sleeping mat was also fairly bulky.

To fit this budget camping gear, I needed a large volume luggage system.  The 80-liter system was perfect for swallowing my tent, sleeping bag, and mat, along with clothes, cooking gear, and other essentials.

However, when I switched to the 40-liter system, I realized I could still bring almost the same amount of essential gear, but only by drastically reducing the bulk and weight of my camping equipment.  This meant investing in a much smaller and lighter ultralight tent, a down-filled sleeping bag (which compresses incredibly small), and a lightweight, compact sleeping mat.

These lightweight items, while individually more expensive than their budget counterparts, pack down to an astonishingly small size.  I can now fit my entire sleeping arrangement – tent, sleeping bag, and mat – into just one of the Reckless 40’s 14-liter side bags, with room to spare. The remaining space in the 40-liter system is more than sufficient for my clothes, cooking equipment, tools, and other necessities.

Because I had to invest in significantly pricier ultralight camping gear to make the 40L system work, the savings on using the 40L vs 80L system were canceled out. But, if I were still using my bulky budget tent and sleeping bag, the 40-liter system simply wouldn’t be large enough.

The takeaway here is that if you don’t camp frequently, or if you’re just starting out and on a tight budget, a larger volume luggage system can actually be the cheaper option.  It allows you to use more affordable, albeit bulkier, camping gear without needing to spend a fortune on ultralight equipment. The luggage itself might be slightly more expensive, but the total cost of your setup could be lower.

The reason I personally opted for the smaller 40-liter system is a conscious decision to force myself to pack lighter and smarter. I have to be very deliberate about what I bring, how I pack it, and embrace a multi-purpose philosophy for my gear. This approach minimizes weight, makes the bike more agile, and simply reduces the amount of “stuff” I’m carrying around.

You’ve probably heard the expression “light is right.”  While there’s truth to it, especially for more technical riding, it’s not universally applicable. If you’re planning more relaxed adventure touring, primarily on pavement or well-maintained gravel roads, and you value comfort and convenience, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with bringing more gear.

Just always remember the golden rule: pack as close to the foot pegs as possible.  Building a towering stack of luggage behind the rear axle will severely compromise your bike’s stability, particularly if you encounter unexpected off-road sections or need to make quick maneuvers.

Extras: Expanding Your Carrying Capacity

Beyond your main luggage system, there are several other places on your bike and on your person to carry extra gear. These “extras” can be really useful for optimizing weight distribution and carrying frequently accessed items.

If your bike has crash bars, mounting auxiliary bags to them is a popular option.  I personally don’t use crash bar bags, but they can be a good way to even out weight distribution and carry items you need relatively quickly but don’t need constantly. However, be mindful that anything you put in crash bar bags is vulnerable in a fall. These bags are likely to take a beating in even a minor tip-over. So, don’t store anything fragile or essential in crash bar bags. 

I always ride with a backpack. It’s another convenient place to carry some gear. I typically use a riding backpack for items I want quick access to, such as extra gloves, a warm layer, snacks, or my camera.  A backpack is also incredibly handy when you stop for the night. If you want to take a hike, explore a town, or just wander around camp, having a backpack readily available is invaluable. Plus, most riding backpacks have a built-in water bladder, which is essential for staying hydrated while riding, especially in warmer conditions or during strenuous off-road sections.

In addition to my main riding backpack, I also often carry a smaller, packable backpack – a “mini-backpack” if you will. Mine is a 20-liter pack, and it’s designed for temporary use. It packs down incredibly small when not needed. This type of backpack is perfect for quick errands. If I need to ride into town for groceries, or for the last leg of a journey before setting up camp and want to grab supplies, it’s incredibly convenient to have.  It’s essentially a durable, motorcycle-friendly grocery bag that you can comfortably carry on your back, freeing up your hands on the bike.

Tank bags are another popular extra luggage option, available in a wide range of sizes and styles.  However, on some bikes, like my Yamaha Ténéré 700, fitting a large tank bag can be a bit awkward.  The T7’s tank is quite tall, and a big tank bag can end up looking and feeling like a chimney from the Titanic perched in front of you. On bikes with flatter tank profiles, larger tank bags are much more integrated and less obtrusive.

I generally prefer smaller tank bags. They’re ideal for keeping essential items readily accessible while riding – things like your phone, wallet, passport, maps, sunglasses, multi-tool, tire pressure gauge, and snacks.  I also tend to keep valuables in my tank bag, as it’s easy to detach and take with you when you leave the bike unattended.  A tank bag is a great “go-bag” for essentials and valuables when traveling.

Modularity and Adaptability: Key to Long-Term Satisfaction

Whatever type of luggage system you ultimately choose, I strongly recommend prioritizing modularity and adaptability.  I like having a system that allows me to add auxiliary bags when needed, and also to scale down the main luggage system for shorter trips or more minimalist adventures.  The ability to adapt your luggage setup to different trip lengths and riding styles is key to long-term satisfaction.

There are so many excellent luggage options available to adventure motorcyclists today.  My advice is to start by deciding on the overall style of luggage that best suits your riding: do you lean towards the polished, secure aluminum boxes, the flexibility of racked soft bags, or the versatility and narrow profile of rackless systems?

Once you’ve narrowed down the style, you’ll find numerous brands offering different solutions within each category, with variations in quality, materials, weight, sturdiness, and features.  I personally lean towards Mosko Moto bags, and I’ve mentioned the Reckless 40 system I use.  I appreciate their robust construction and durability.  As I jokingly said, they’re built so tough my kids could probably use them after they dig me out of a ravine, and maybe even their kids after them!  They are truly built to last.

But ultimately, the “best” luggage is subjective and depends on your individual needs and preferences.  I highly recommend reading user reviews and comments.  On my YouTube channel and videos, for example, the comments sections are often filled with valuable insights and real-world experiences from other riders sharing what luggage systems they use and what they like or dislike about them.

So, start the conversation!  Ask questions, read reviews, and tap into the collective knowledge of the adventure riding community.  This article is just an icebreaker, a starting point to guide you through the initial considerations.

Good luck with your luggage choices.  It’s a crucial part of setting up your adventure bike, but also a really exciting part of the process.

The post Adventure Motorcycle Luggage Systems: A Guide for Newcomers first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

If you’re new to the ADV scene, terms like GPX files and Trans Euro Trail downloads might sound like another language. But trust me, navigating this world is easier than you think, and in just a few minutes, you’ll be well on your way to becoming a navigation pro. Here are three key things to keep in mind as we dive in:

• Syncing is your friend: Forget the hassle of manually transferring files between devices. Modern navigation apps offer seamless online syncing, letting you plan on your computer and ride with your phone or tablet without missing a beat.
• GPX is the universal language: Whether you’re sharing rides with friends using different apps or downloading epic routes like the Trans Euro Trail, GPX files are the key to compatibility and sharing.
• Routes vs. Tracks: Know the difference: Understanding the nuances between routes and tracks is crucial for effective navigation and choosing the right format for your adventure style.

If you’d rather watch this guide, here’s my original video on the topic:

Seamless Navigation Across Devices: The Power of Online Syncing

When you’re juggling a laptop for planning, a phone for quick checks, and maybe even a tablet for on-the-go navigation, device management can quickly become a headache. One of the first hurdles for anyone getting started is figuring out how to move those carefully crafted routes and trails from your computer to your phone, or vice versa.

Thankfully, there’s a simple solution: navigation apps with online syncing. These apps, and just about every navigation app these days, act like a central hub, automatically synchronizing your projects across all your devices. Think of apps like Stegra – some call it the “Spotify of navigation” – Locus Map, OsmAnd, and Calimoto. They all offer online planning tools that effortlessly sync to your devices. Even DMD is developing its own syncing capabilities.

Let me show you how easy it is. Say I’m on my computer, planning a ride from my garage to a scenic spot, aiming for some adventurous gravel roads. I create my route in my chosen app, give it a name like “Garage Demo,” and save it.

Now, I switch over to my phone, open the same app, and navigate to my routes. Lo and behold, there’s “Garage Demo,” ready to go. I can select it, and just like that, I’m ready to ride, with the route loaded and waiting.

The same magic happens on my tablet. Fire up the app, and “Garage Demo” is there again, ready for action. It’s truly “easy peasy” as I like to say. Plus, many of these apps let you create groups and collaborate with riding buddies on projects, making planning group rides a breeze.

GPX Files: The Universal Translator for Adventure Rides

While syncing apps are incredibly convenient, the reality is that not everyone operates within the same app ecosystem. Some of your friends might be die-hard Garmin users, while others prefer different apps. And then there’s the wealth of shared routes and tracks available online, like the legendary Trans Euro Trail. This is where GPX files become indispensable.

GPX stands for GPS Exchange Format. It’s essentially a universal file format designed for sharing GPS data between different devices and software. A GPX file acts as a container, holding waypoints, tracks, routes, and all the essential information about your trip in a way that any compatible device can understand.

Think of it as a common language that allows seamless communication between different navigation systems. GPX files are incredibly versatile and easy to share. You can send them via email, text message, or download them from websites. They can be imported and used on a wide range of devices, from Garmin units and tablets to computers and smartphones.

Garmin Zumo XT Motorcycle GPS

Rugged GPS with a bright 5.5” display, built for any adventure.

Pros:

• Durable and weather-resistant (IPX7)
• Preloaded on-road and off-road maps
• Hands-free calling and live traffic updates

Cons:

• Limited battery life at max brightness (but supports bike plug-in)

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Importing GPX Files: Downloading Trans Euro Trail and Routes from Friends

Let’s walk through importing GPX files, starting with downloading the Trans Euro Trail (TET). Head over to the Trans Euro Trail website, transeurotrail.org. Navigate to your desired section – in this case, Sweden – and download the relevant GPX file.

This download gives you a file, likely named something like “s.GPX,” containing all the waypoints and tracks for the Swedish TET.

Now, to get this into your navigation app, open your online planner, and look for an “import” function and select the downloaded GPX file.

Since the TET GPX file can be quite large, give it a moment to load. Once imported, you can organize it within your app. I’ll add it to a collection named “TET Sweden” and display it on the map.

And now I’m set – the Trans Euro Trail Sweden, loaded and ready to explore. Having it in Stegra, or your chosen navigation app, means it’s now accessible on all your synced devices.

Importing a GPX file sent by a friend is just as straightforward. Let’s say a buddy emails you a ride file. The process is similar for text messages or other sharing methods.

Open the email, and you’ll see the attached GPX file. Instead of just clicking to view the file’s cryptic code, look for an “Open with” or “Share” icon, usually located in the lower corner on mobile devices.

This will present you with a list of apps to open the GPX file with. If your navigation app isn’t immediately visible, scroll through the options. Select your app and it will import the track your friend shared.

Voila! The track from your buddy is now loaded in your app, ready for your next ride.

Transferring GPX Files to Devices Without Online Syncing: Google Drive to the Rescue

What if you’re using a device or app that doesn’t yet offer online syncing, like DMD2 (though they are actively working on it!) or other systems? For Android devices, Google Drive provides a handy workaround.

On your computer, access Google Drive – which I have installed across all my devices. Simply drag and drop the GPX files you want to transfer into your Google Drive storage. This could be the “Ride Buddy” file, the Trans Euro Trail GPX, or any other route you want on your tablet.

Since Android is deeply integrated with Google Drive, accessing these files on your tablet is seamless. In your navigation app – DMD2 in this example – navigate to the GPX import section. Look for an option like “Load File,” which should directly access your Google Drive.

Within Google Drive, locate the GPX folder and select the file you want to load – in this case, the Stegra route. Tap to load it, and the GPX track will appear on your map.

You can then customize the track’s appearance – I’ll change the color to blue for better visibility. And just like that, the GPX file is on your tablet, ready for your ride.

This Google Drive method is a reliable way to transfer GPX files to Android devices, particularly useful for apps that don’t yet have built-in syncing.

Sharing Your Rides: Exporting GPX Tracks

Now, let’s flip the script and look at sharing your own epic rides with friends. Most navigation apps allow you to record your rides, creating a track of your journey.

Once you’ve finished recording a ride, you’ll typically find it saved within your app. In Stegra, for example, after ending a recording, your ride appears as a saved track.

To share this ride as a GPX file, look for a “Share” or “Export” button. Selecting this option usually allows you to save the track to your Google Drive.

Choose your GPX folder in Google Drive and save the file there. Now, your ride is saved as a GPX file on Google Drive, ready to be shared. You can easily send it to friends via email or share a link.

Alternatively, if you’ve saved your ride as a project within your navigation app, you can typically export it as a GPX file directly. In Stegra, you can find your saved projects, select the ride you want to share – like the “GPX Demo” – and choose the “Download GPX” option.

The app will then prompt you to choose how you want to share the GPX file – email, messaging apps, and more are usually available options. Sharing your rides in GPX format is incredibly easy.

Routes vs. Tracks: Understanding the Key Differences

So, we’ve covered creating, importing, and sharing routes and tracks using apps and GPX files. But it’s essential to understand the fundamental difference between a route and a track, as this impacts how you navigate.

A route is what you’re likely familiar with from car GPS navigators or apps like Google Maps. It relies on a map and a navigation engine. You set a destination, and the navigator calculates a route based on the map data, considering roads and available paths.

Because a route uses map information, it can provide turn-by-turn directions, guiding you along roads and paths known to the map.

In contrast, a track is essentially a digital breadcrumb trail of where someone has actually been. Tracks are typically recorded during a ride or journey at set intervals – say, every second – capturing GPS location points and timestamps.

Tracks don’t rely on a map for navigation instructions. Instead, a track is simply a series of GPS points plotted on a map. Many GPX files you download, especially for adventure riding, are tracks.

When you load a track onto your navigation device, it appears as a line overlaid on the map – like drawing a line on a paper map. You see your current location in relation to the track line. If you deviate from the track, you’ll see yourself moving away from the line and need to find your way back to it.

For adventure riding, especially on routes like the Trans Euro Trail, I often prefer navigating with tracks. I don’t necessarily need turn-by-turn instructions; the track provides a guide, and I enjoy the freedom to explore within the general path.

It’s worth knowing that some apps and Garmin devices offer the option to convert a track into a route. This attempts to generate turn-by-turn directions from a track.

However, because a track is simply a recording of where someone went, it might go off-road, across fields, or even across water where there are no mapped roads. When displayed on a map, the track accurately shows the path taken, regardless of mapped roads.

But when you convert a track to a route, the navigation software uses its map data to create a route that approximates the track, but it will follow mapped roads and trails.

So, if you convert a Trans Euro Trail GPX track – which often includes off-road sections and deviations from standard roads – into a route for turn-by-turn navigation, the converted route might differ slightly from the original track. It might try to stick to recognized roads and trails, potentially missing some of the intended off-road or more adventurous sections of the original track. You might not be riding exactly where the original track intended.

Hopefully, this has clarified the basics of adventure riding navigation, GPX files, and the crucial difference between routes and tracks. If you were a complete beginner to all of this, I hope you now feel a lot more confident navigating the digital side of adventure riding. Thanks for tuning in!

The post Mastering Adventure Ride Navigation: Syncing, GPX Files, Routes first appeared on It's Better On The Road.