Picking the right battery isn’t just about getting your bike to fire up. It’s about not having to think about it at all. Nail it, and you’re rolling without a second thought. Blow it, and you’re chasing jump starts and missing rides.

A few things riders don’t always hear straight:

1. That fancy lithium setup everyone brags about hates the cold worse than you do.
2. Your battery tender might be slowly roasting your lithium battery alive if it’s not the right type.
3. Sticking to whatever battery your bike came with isn’t always the smartest move if you actually want better reliability.

Let’s get straight to it. Here’s what you need to know to match your battery to your ride and keep you riding, not pushing.

Here are your top options for motorcycle batteries:

Top Pick: Best Motorcycle Battery

Basic	Fire Power Conventional Battery 4.3 Affordable and basic, these are best for wrenchers and vintage fans who need a standard battery.	Check Price on Revzilla
Powerful	Twin Power High Performance Factory Activated AGM Battery For Harley 4.5 An AGM battery that’s factory-activated, best for commuters, tourers, ADV, and everyday riders.	Check Price on Revzilla
Lightest	Antigravity ReStart Lithium Ion Battery 4.3 A very light lithium Ion battery with built-in re-start feature. Best for racers and tuners who want to get the most out of their bike (and shave every ounce off).	Check Price on Revzilla

Basic

Fire Power Conventional Battery

4.3

Affordable and basic, these are best for wrenchers and vintage fans who need a standard battery. 

Check Price on Revzilla

Powerful

Twin Power High Performance Factory Activated AGM Battery For Harley

4.5

An AGM battery that’s factory-activated, best for commuters, tourers, ADV, and everyday riders.

Check Price on Revzilla

Lightest

Antigravity ReStart Lithium Ion Battery

4.3

A very light lithium Ion battery with built-in re-start feature. Best for racers and tuners who want to get the most out of their bike (and shave every ounce off).

Check Price on Revzilla

Which Battery Fits Your Ride?

Conventional Lead-Acid (Flooded): Old-school and cheap up front, but they need babysitting. Checking electrolyte levels, topping off, the whole deal. Good for riders tight on cash, vintage bike owners, or anyone who doesn’t mind getting their hands dirty.

AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat): The workhorse. Sealed, spill-proof, and tough enough to handle everyday riding. No maintenance headaches. Solid call for commuters, tourers, ADV riders, most everyday setups.

Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4): Featherweight hitters. Way lighter, strong cranking power, crazy long lifespan if you treat ’em right. But they cost more and need specific chargers. Best for performance junkies, track rats, and custom builders who count every ounce.

Best Motorcycle Batteries Reviewed

Here’s a lineup of batteries that actually deliver solid performance, whether you are looking to save some cash or step up to top-shelf gear. Good options, straight to the point, to get you rolling and keep you riding without headaches.

Fire Power Conventional Battery

I ran a Fire Power Conventional Battery on one of my older bikes when I needed a quick replacement and didn’t want to drop a bunch of cash. It’s your classic lead-acid setup, which means you have to fill it with acid when you get it and check the fluid levels regularly. Not the easiest thing out there, but if you don’t mind a little hands-on upkeep, it’ll keep your bike turning over.

The case is made from polypropylene, which handles vibration better than some of the cheaper stuff. I’ve had it on rough roads and bumpy commutes, and it didn’t crack or leak. It’s also got anti-sulfation treatment, which helps keep the plates from breaking down too fast if you’re not riding every day. Still, it’s the kind of battery that’ll last a season or two if you treat it right, maybe longer if you’re religious with maintenance.

Cranking power felt solid, nothing fancy, but it fired up the engine consistently. You’re not getting high-end performance or a long lifespan like with AGM or lithium options, but that’s not what this battery’s trying to be.

If you’re on a tight budget, ride a vintage setup, or just need something to hold you over for a while, Fire Power gets the job done — as long as you’re down to put in a little work.

The catch? The maintenance requirement, the potential for acid spills if tipped, and generally lower CCA and shorter lifespan compared to premium AGM or lithium options. They also tend to be heavier.

Silver Lining: The low cost makes it a great option for project bikes, older machines where authenticity matters, or simply riders on a very tight budget who need reliable starting power and understand the maintenance involved. Sometimes, simple and cheap is all you need.

Alternative option: If you are looking for a conventional battery, you may also check out the BikeMaster BB30L-B Battery. It handles starting duties without drama, holds up to everyday riding, and keeps things simple.

Fire Power Conventional Battery

Reliable power with a durable build for tough motorcycle conditions.

Pros:

• Tough polypropylene case resists harsh environments
• Anti-sulfate treatment extends battery life
• Includes pre-measured acid pack for easy setup

Cons:

• Requires manual acid fill and initial charging before use

Check Price on Revzilla Check Price on Amazon

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

Our Review: We’ll be covering the Fire Power Conventional battery in our budget gear roundups at It’s Better On The Road.

Twin Power High Performance Factory Activated AGM Battery

If you ride a Harley and want a battery that keeps up without turning into a project, Twin Power’s High Performance AGM is worth a look. It comes factory-activated, which means no acid fills, no waiting around. Just bolt it in and ride.

It’s an AGM battery, so it’s sealed and maintenance-free. You don’t have to worry about spills, corrosion, or topping off fluid. That’s key when your bike shakes like a paint mixer at idle. Twin Power built this thing to handle the vibration and heat that comes with a big V-twin, especially when you’re racking up miles in all kinds of weather.

Cranking power is solid across the board. It’s made to turn over heavy Harley motors without hesitation, and the charge holds up well even if the bike sits for a bit. No fancy bells and whistles, just a strong, dependable battery that does exactly what it’s supposed to.

I wouldn’t call it a premium battery, and it’s not trying to be. But it’s tough, reliable, and gets the job done without the price tag some of the bigger brands ask for. If you’re after a battery that can handle daily rides and long trips without falling apart, Twin Power delivers. And, it’s made in the USA. 

The catch? The main downside with the Twin Power AGM is lifespan. Some of these batteries hold up fine, but others start fading after a year or two, which is shorter than what you’d expect from a solid AGM. It cranks strong at first, but if you’re expecting long-haul reliability like you’d get from a top-tier brand, this one might fall short.

Alternative Option: If you don’t mind the initial filling and charging process and want to save a few bucks, the Yuasa YTX12-BS AGM (or other non-activated AGMs) offers similar core performance once it’s prepped and ready to go.

Twin Power High Performance Factory Activated AGM Battery For Harley

Premium performance battery built tough for Harley riders.

Pros:

• Factory activated and fully sealed for convenience
• Extreme vibration resistance enhances durability
• Heavy-duty terminals ensure strong and stable connections

Cons:

• Higher price point compared to standard battery options

Check Price on Revzilla

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

Our Review: Check back soon at It’s Better On The Road for our full thoughts on the Twin Power Factory Activated AGM!

Yuasa High Performance AGM Battery

The Yuasa High Performance AGM is one of those batteries you throw in and stop thinking about. It comes factory-activated, so there’s no filling or messing with acid. You bolt it up, and you’re ready to ride. No drama, no leaks, no maintenance checks down the road.

It cranks harder than your standard AGM too. That extra kick matters if you’re running a big twin, loaded up with accessories, or just riding in colder weather when engines get stubborn. The tech inside is lead-calcium, which basically means it holds a charge better over time without the usual slow death you get from sitting too long between rides.

What I like is that it is built tough without making a big fuss about it. Vibration, heat, cold — it can handle real-world riding. You will find cheaper batteries out there, but you usually pay for it in headaches later. Yuasa charges a little more, but you are buying peace of mind.

If you want a battery you can slap in and not have to think about every few months, this is the move. Reliable, strong, and built for riders who would rather be riding than wrenching.

The catch? Well, it’s not the lightest option out there, weighing significantly more than a lithium battery. If you’re building a featherweight race replica, this isn’t your first choice.

Silver Lining: That extra weight comes from proven, robust lead-acid technology that offers fantastic reliability and durability for everyday riding, touring, and commuting. It’s a known quantity that just plain works, year after year, without needing a special charger or sensitive handling like some lithium options.

Alternative option: The Fire Power Factory Activated AGM Battery comes pre-charged, holds up well to everyday riding, and gives you reliable starting power without the premium price tag. A good pick if you want something dependable and easy to drop in.

Yuasa High Performance AGM Battery

Reliable high-performance AGM battery designed for powerful starts and long-lasting use.

Pros:

• Up to 30 percent more cranking amps for superior starting power
• Maintenance-free and spill-proof design for hassle-free use
• Long shelf life with low self-discharge during storage

Cons:

• Requires initial acid fill and charging before use

Check Price on Revzilla Check Price on Amazon

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

Our Review: We haven’t done a specific deep-dive review on the Yuasa High Performance AGM yet, but stay tuned to It’s Better On The Road! 

Antigravity ReStart Lithium Ion Battery

If you want to drop some real weight off your bike and add a bit of tech without making it complicated, the Antigravity ReStart is a pretty slick option. It is a lithium-ion setup, so it is way lighter than any lead-acid or AGM battery I have used. You can feel the difference even just holding it, never mind when you are riding.

What really sold me on it is the built-in jump-start feature. If you accidentally kill the battery — like leaving the ignition on or running accessories too long — you hit a button and it taps into a backup reserve to fire the bike up. No jumper cables, no waiting around, you just get moving again. That is huge if you ride solo a lot.

It installs just like any other battery, but you do have to make sure your bike’s charging system is lithium-friendly. Some older bikes might need a little tweaking or a compatible regulator to keep from overcharging it.

It costs more up front, no way around that. But between the weight savings, the backup start, and not worrying about being stuck somewhere dumb, it feels like money well spent to me.

The catch? These are premium batteries with a premium cost. They also absolutely require a lithium-specific charger (LiFePO4 compatible) – using a standard lead-acid charger can damage them permanently. Lithium batteries can also be more sensitive to extreme cold than AGM batteries, sometimes needing a “wake-up” (like turning the headlight on for 30 seconds) before they deliver full power in freezing temps.

Silver Lining: That Re-Start feature can genuinely save you from being stranded far from home, potentially saving you the cost and hassle of a tow or roadside assistance. For adventure riders or anyone traveling remotely, that peace of mind can be worth the price of admission.

Alternative option: The Duraboost DBL14 Lithium Ion Battery is a good pick if you want reliable starts and a simple setup that just works. It is lightweight, cranks hard, and gives you strong performance without getting into crazy prices.

Antigravity ReStart Lithium Ion Battery

Smart lithium-ion battery with built-in jump-start technology for worry-free rides.

Pros:

• Built-in Re-Start button prevents dead battery emergencies
• Weighs up to 70 percent less than lead-acid batteries
• Advanced Battery Management System ensures safety and extended life

Cons:

• May not be compatible with older or damaged voltage regulators

Check Price on Revzilla Check Price on Amazon

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

Our Review: We’re big fans of innovation like the Re-Start feature. Look for our detailed review of the Antigravity ReStart soon on It’s Better On The Road.

Duraboost V-Twin Lithium Ion Battery For Harley

If I wanted to drop some weight and get stronger starting power out of my Harley, the Duraboost V-Twin Lithium Ion Battery would be on my radar. It is a lot lighter than a standard lead-acid battery, and that weight savings can make a real difference when you are loading up for a long haul or hitting apexes. 

Installation is straightforward. The battery comes in a heavy-duty OEM-sized case, so it fits snug without needing any weird spacers or foam tricks. The brass two-position terminals make it easy to get your cables locked down tight.

Performance-wise, it delivers solid cranking power and a strong cycle life, meaning it can handle getting charged and discharged over and over without falling apart. Built-in protection for over-discharge and short circuits is another bonus, especially if you are running extra gear or doing longer rides.

Just remember it needs a lithium-specific charger. Hooking it up to a regular lead-acid tender can mess it up fast. Also, like a lot of lithium setups, it can be a little sluggish on cold mornings until it warms up.

If you are after a lighter, tougher battery with some brains built in, the Duraboost V-Twin is a strong choice for Harley riders looking to upgrade.

The catch? Price is higher than AGM/conventional. Also, it’s the usual story with lithium: you have to use a lithium-specific charger or you risk wrecking it. It can also get a little slow to wake up if you are trying to fire it up in really cold weather. Other than that, it is a solid upgrade if you know how to take care of it.

Silver Lining: You get a battery that is lighter, cranks harder, and lasts longer if you treat it right. The built-in protection makes it a lot tougher than some of the older lithium options out there. Get the right charger and you are set for reliable starts without dragging extra weight around.

Alternative option: If you want another lightweight option with a little more brand reputation behind it, the Antigravity ReStart batteries are worth a look. They are tough, crank strong, and have that built-in jump-start feature if you kill the battery out on the road. 

Duraboost V-Twin Lithium Ion Battery For Harley

Power-packed lithium-ion battery designed specifically for Harley V-Twin motorcycles.

Pros:

• Delivers exceptional cranking power for high-performance engines
• Equipped with over-discharge and short-circuit protection
• Lightweight and vibration-resistant for long-term durability

Cons:

• Not compatible with international shipping restrictions

Check Price on Revzilla

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

Our Review: We’re planning a tech dive into lithium battery management systems, featuring the Duraboost V-Twin. Check It’s Better On The Road for updates.

Motorcycle Battery Comparison

Motorcycle Battery Buying Guide: Choosing Your Perfect Match

Alright, you’ve seen the options. Now let’s figure out which one actually makes sense for your setup. This all comes down to knowing your bike, your riding style, and a few key numbers.

Alright, you’ve seen the options. Now let’s figure out which one actually makes sense for your setup. This all comes down to knowing your bike, your riding style, and a few key numbers.

Step One: Know What Your Bike Needs (RTFM)

Seriously, grab your owner’s manual and read it. That’s where the truth lives. You’ll need to match:

• Size and Shape – Batteries are grouped by size codes. If it doesn’t fit in your tray, you’ve got a problem. Foam can help fill small gaps, especially with smaller lithium units, but the core dimensions need to line up.
• Terminal Type and Polarity – Are the posts flat, round, or L-shaped? Positive on the left or the right? Get this wrong and your cables won’t reach.
• Minimum CCA Rating – That’s your Cold Cranking Amps. You can go higher, but never go lower than the manual says.
• Minimum Ah Rating – Some bikes, especially those with extra electronics, need a specific Amp Hour rating. That’s about how long the battery can supply juice.

Match the Battery Type to How You Ride

• Conventional – Old-school. Cheap, but you’ve got to maintain it. Not sealed. Good for vintage bikes or tight budgets.
• AGM – Sealed, no-maintenance, good vibration resistance. Great all-around choice for most street and touring setups.
• Lithium (LiFePO4) – Light as hell, strong cranking power, long life if treated right. Needs a specific charger and doesn’t love extreme cold.

What Is CCA, and Why Should You Care?

Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) = how hard your battery can punch when starting your bike in cold weather. Bigger engines, higher compression, or colder climates? You want a higher CCA. Never go under what your bike calls for. Going higher is usually fine, as long as it still fits.

What About Amp Hours (Ah)?

Amp Hours = how long your battery can hold and supply power. If you’re running heated gear, lights, GPS, or a stereo while parked, Ah matters. But if all you care about is starting the bike, CCA is the main number to watch. Lithium batteries often have lower Ah ratings than lead-acid ones, but they’re more efficient with that power. Don’t try to compare Ah across types, it’s not a 1:1 thing.

Quick Note on Fitment

Before you pull the trigger, double-check the fitment tab on Revzilla. Make sure the battery actually fits your bike’s year, make, and model. Don’t trust just the size specs. Fitment tools exist for a reason, and using them saves you from finding out the hard way when the terminals are flipped or the case doesn’t drop into the tray right.

Maintenance and Charging

• Conventional – Needs filling, charging, and regular top-offs with distilled water. Use a standard lead-acid charger.
• AGM – Maintenance-free. Use a smart charger that supports AGM. Avoid old trickle chargers.
• Lithium – Absolutely must use a lithium-specific charger. A lead-acid charger with desulfation mode can kill it. Don’t mess this up.

Be Real About Your Budget

You can get a basic battery for under $50 or a high-end lithium for over $300. If you can stretch a little, AGM is a big upgrade from conventional without a huge price hike. You don’t always need the most expensive battery, but going too cheap can backfire fast.

Don’t Get Left Stranded

Your battery might not be the coolest thing on your bike, but it’s one of the most important. No power, no ride. It’s that simple.

Whether you’re going for a budget Fire Power, a reliable Yuasa or Twin Power AGM, or stepping into lightweight territory with Antigravity, Shorai, or NOCO, the goal is the same: get a battery that fits your bike, your ride style, and your expectations. Install it right, charge it right, and it’ll return the favor with years of solid starts.

Pick smart and stop stressing over dead batteries. You’ve got better places to be.

The post Best Motorcycle Battery for Your Bike: Conventional, AGM & Lithium first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

Let’s dive into the world of Pirelli racing compounds to understand how to choose the right tire for your ride, whether you’re hitting the track for a sprint race, endurance event, or just a spirited track day.

I’ll share my insights from years of racing in the UK Endurance Championship, where tire choice can make or break your race, especially with our unpredictable weather.

If you’d rather watch this guide, here’s my original video on the topic:

Decoding Pirelli Tire Compounds: SCX, SC0, SC1, SC2, SC3

When it comes to Pirelli racing tires, understanding the compound designations is key. You’ll see codes like SCX, SC0, SC1, SC2, and SC3. Each of these represents a different compound formulation designed for specific conditions and rider needs. Let’s break down each one, starting with the most specialized and moving towards the most versatile.

Pirelli SCX: The Cutting Edge Compound

First up, the SCX. This is a bit of a special compound. I actually bought an SCX, the ‘X’ compound specifically, from a local British Superbike team. Sadly, I didn’t get to use it, but I did a lot of research into it. The SCX is really designed for maximum performance in very specific conditions. It demands a fast pace and high track temperatures. Think British Superbikes, World Superbikes – that level of competition.

The SCX is constantly evolving, with Pirelli incorporating feedback from top riders and teams to refine it. In the UK, if you’re dealing with really high temperatures and you’re a seriously fast rider, then the SCX might be worth considering. However, for most of us, even if you’re quick and the weather is hot, the SC0 is likely a better option in a club racing or even a track day scenario. I wouldn’t typically recommend an SCX for track days because of the multiple heat cycles involved. It’s just not really designed for that kind of use.

Pirelli SC0: Maximum Grip for Sprint Domination

Let’s talk about temperature, because Pirelli and temperature go hand-in-hand. Generally, with Pirelli, higher temperatures mean you should lean towards softer compounds, while lower temperatures call for harder, more durable compounds. The SC0 is definitely on the softer end of the spectrum.

The SC0 compound is engineered for high temperatures and maximum grip. It excels in sprint races where outright performance is paramount. However, it’s important to know that the SC0 doesn’t love multiple heat cycles. It’s designed for peak performance in shorter bursts. While it offers incredible grip, it’s not ideal for endurance racing or track days where you’ll be putting in many laps over the course of a day.

I learned this the hard way at Silverstone back in 2019. I had a big crash – thankfully, I was mostly okay – but it was a lesson in tire choice. I was running an SC1 on the front, which was fine, but on the rear, I had an SC0. It was a 17-degree morning, and my SC0 rear tire was showing cold blistering because it was simply the wrong tire for those conditions. So, while the SC0 delivers amazing grip in hot weather and is fantastic for sprint races or qualifying sessions, be mindful of temperature and heat cycles. Don’t use it in low temperatures, as you might experience blistering.

Pirelli SC1: Versatile Grip for Sprint and Club Racing

Moving up the range, we have the SC1. This compound offers a wider temperature operating window compared to the SC0, making it more versatile. It’s a popular choice in sprint races and club-level racing. I’ve seen racers use a single SC1 for an entire race, although tire choice always depends on your pace, riding style, and track conditions.

The SC1 provides excellent grip but still performs best when temperatures are moderately warm. It’s a step up in durability from the SC0 while still offering a significant grip advantage over harder compounds. If you’re looking for a good balance of grip and longevity for sprint racing or faster track day sessions in varied temperatures, the SC1 is a solid choice.

Pirelli SC2: The Track Day and Club Racer’s All-Rounder

Now we get to the SC2, a truly versatile and popular compound, especially among club racers and track day enthusiasts. The SC2 is designed to work across a broad range of temperatures. It’s a predictable tire that’s less prone to cold tearing or thermal degradation.

Like all Pirelli SC compounds (SCX, SC0, SC1, and SC2), the SC2 doesn’t love excessive heat cycles, but it handles a few without significant issues. Back in 2019, I rode at Jerez in Spain, and I used the SC2 for two days in 36-degree ambient temperatures, with track temperatures reaching around 50 degrees Celsius. The SC2 performed brilliantly and handled multiple heat cycles without any problems.

The SC2’s versatility is why it’s so popular. It’s a great all-around tire for track days and club racing where you need consistent performance across varying conditions and multiple sessions.

Pirelli SC3: Durability and Consistency for Endurance and Beyond

Finally, let’s talk about the SC3. There’s a common misconception that the SC3 is a very hard, basic compound. However, that’s not really the case. Pirelli has invested significant research and development into the SC3, listening to riders and teams to create a very clever and versatile compound.

The SC3 is designed to handle multiple heat cycles, making it a budget-friendly option if tire longevity is a concern. But don’t mistake durability for lack of performance. The key consideration with the SC3 is that it’s not ideal for very, very high temperatures.

I once did a one-hour and nine-minute stint at Anglesey circuit on SC3s. It was an incredibly hot day, track temperature was around 55 degrees Celsius, and there were a lot of crashes that day in an endurance race. Many people were using the SC3, and unfortunately, it became quite slippery in those extreme conditions. In very high temperatures, SC0, SC1, or SC2 would still be better choices.

However, where the SC3 truly shines is in its versatility and consistency. It’s excellent for track day riders, especially if you’re doing multi-day events or touring in Europe where you’ll encounter varying conditions. It handles multiple heat cycles without significant thermal degradation, cold tearing, or blistering. It provides good feedback and, most importantly, it’s remarkably consistent.

Consistency is crucial, especially in endurance racing. In the UK endurance scene, many podium finishers and race winners, including myself, have used the SC3 compound. It provides the consistent performance and feedback you need throughout long races. For endurance events or track days where durability and predictability are paramount, the SC3 is an excellent choice.

Front Tire Considerations: SC1 vs SC2

Let’s briefly touch on front tires. Many riders prefer the SC1 front slick, and for good reason. It’s very predictable, offers excellent feedback, and being a softer compound, it provides a lot of grip.

However, there are also many riders who opt for the SC2 front. The SC2 front offers less deflection and movement compared to the SC1. Ultimately, front tire choice often comes down to rider preference and, importantly, weather conditions.

If it’s a super-hot day, or even just a generally hot day, an SC1 front can work very well. But if you’re facing varied temperatures, colder conditions, or if you simply prefer a front tire with less deflection, then the SC2 front is a fantastic option. It’s all about finding what gives you the most confidence and control in your specific riding situation.

Choosing the Right Compound for You

Selecting the right Pirelli tire compound is a balance of understanding your riding needs, the conditions you’ll be facing, and the characteristics of each compound. Consider these factors when making your choice:

• Temperature: Ambient and track temperature are critical. Softer compounds (SC0, SC1) generally perform best in warmer conditions, while harder compounds (SC2, SC3) offer more versatility and durability across a wider temperature range.
• Riding Style and Pace: Faster, more aggressive riders might benefit from the enhanced grip of softer compounds, while riders prioritizing longevity and predictability might prefer harder compounds.
• Type of Riding: Sprint races demand maximum grip (SC0, SC1), endurance races benefit from consistency and durability (SC3, SC2), and track days require versatility and heat cycle tolerance (SC2, SC3).
• Heat Cycles: If you’re doing track days or multi-day events, consider compounds that handle multiple heat cycles well (SC3, SC2).

By understanding these factors and the nuances of each Pirelli compound, you can make informed decisions to optimize your tire performance and enhance your riding experience. And remember, tire choice is a personal thing, so experiment and find what works best for you and your bike.

The post Pirelli SC Tire Compounds: A Guide for Track and Race Riders first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

Secondly, prepare to ditch the controller. Seriously, this drone is all about hands-free, phone-free flying in many of its coolest modes.

And finally, takeaway number three: firmware updates are your friend. This drone is constantly evolving, and those updates are crucial to unlocking its true potential and ironing out the kinks. So, let’s get into the nitty-gritty of the HoverAir X1 Pro Max and see if it lives up to the hype for us motorcycle riders.

If you’d rather watch this review, here’s my original video on the topic:

HoverAir X1 Pro Max: A Rider’s Honest Take

Full disclosure right off the bat – I bought this drone with my own money. No freebies here.

I pre-ordered it on Kickstarter way back in August, so what you’re about to hear is my genuine customer experience, just like you if you decide to pick one up. I’m all about keeping it real and giving you the straight truth about gear, especially when it comes to capturing those epic rides.

HOVERAir X1 PRO MAX Drone

Capture your adventures in cinematic 8K with the foldable X1 PROMAX action drone, built for speed, stability, and terrain versatility.

Pros:

• Stunning 8K@30fps video with SmoothCapture 2.0 for steady, high-quality footage
• Hands-free flight with voice command and 10+ automatic flight modes
• OmniTerrain design handles snow, water, and cliffs with ease

Cons:

• Premium price may not suit casual users

Check Price on Amazon

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

First Impressions: Small Size, Big Potential

Let’s talk about the basics. The HoverAir X1 Pro Max is impressively lightweight, clocking in at under 200 grams. That’s crucial when you’re already packing riding gear. And the folding design? Genius. It becomes super compact, making it incredibly easy to toss in your backpack without taking up valuable space.

For comparison, I pulled out my DJI Mini 3 Pro. Side-by-side, you can see the DJI is noticeably thicker. Flipping them over, the HoverAir is a bit wider, but overall, it’s significantly more portable than the DJI.

When unfolded, the HoverAir is still more compact and takes way less time to set up than other drones I’ve used. This is a massive win for riding. When you stop for a quick photo or video op, the last thing you want is to fiddle with complicated gear. This thing is grab-and-go. I’ve got the Pro Max version, which shoots in glorious 8K and has HDR. There’s also a Pro version that shoots in 4K if you want to save a few bucks.

Hands-On: Flying Made Easy?

Okay, enough talk, let’s see this thing in action. I want to show you just how simple it is to use. Powering it on is ridiculously easy. Just unfold it, hit the power button, and boom, it’s alive.

It’s got a few different modes, but let’s start with Hover Mode. Press the button once, and it takes off right from your palm. Seriously, straight out of your hand.

In Hover Mode, it stays put, but it’s also tracking. Move right, it follows. Move left, same thing. It’s surprisingly responsive, even in a small space.

Now, let’s try Follow Mode. Switching modes is just another quick press of the button. In Follow Mode, you can walk, and it should track you. Let’s see how it does in my basement studio here.

Okay, liftoff again. Give it a sec to lock onto you… and there it goes. It’s following me! Even in my not-so-bright basement. Obstacle avoidance seems pretty decent too. It’s got sensors to try and navigate around stuff.

Turning around… a little tight in here, but it’s keeping up. There it is! And to land, you just stick your hand underneath it, and it gently falls right into your palm. Super smooth.

So, we’ve checked out Hover and Follow modes. The last mode I can demo inside here is Manual Mode, where you control it with your phone. Let me show you how that works.

App Control: Manual Mode for Precision Shots

Grab your phone, open the Hover app, and tap the drone icon. Pairing is really straightforward, especially the first time. Mine’s already set up. Then, hit “Manual Control,” and it connects to the drone.

Tap “join,” and it connects. Switches over to manual control in about 10 seconds. Not bad at all. Once connected, just hit the center button to take off from your hand again.

Now, on your phone screen, you’ve got two virtual joysticks. Left stick controls turning and vertical movement, right stick handles side-to-side and forward/backward. It’s actually pretty intuitive.

Let’s do a quick demo in the basement here. Bam! Super simple to fly around. Connection feels strong too. Honestly, I don’t see myself using manual mode a ton, as the whole point for me is the autonomous tracking.

Landing in manual mode is the same – hand underneath, gentle landing. To power down, hold that center button again, folds up, and you’re done. That’s the beauty of this thing – quick, simple, and ready to go.

Versus the DJI Mini 3 Pro: Convenience Wins

Compared to my DJI Mini 3 Pro, the HoverAir is a breeze to set up. The DJI, while great, can be a bit of a hassle when you’re on the road. You’ve got to get the drone out, then the controller, boot them both up, make sure they connect… it just takes longer. And you’re carrying an extra controller.

Plus, those little joysticks on the DJI controller? You have to take them off for storage and screw them back on to fly. More fiddling, more time. When you’re trying to capture a ride, speed and simplicity are key.

DJI Mini 3 Pro

Lightweight yet powerful, the DJI Mini 3 Pro delivers pro-level 4K video and intelligent features in a compact, under-249g drone.

Pros:

• Shoots stunning 4K/60fps video and 48MP photos with advanced camera tech
• Tri-directional obstacle sensing and Return to Home for safer flying
• True Vertical Shooting and DJI RC with built-in HD display for effortless social sharing

Cons:

• Lacks side obstacle sensors, limiting protection during lateral movement

Check Price on Amazon

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

Real-World Riding Footage: The Good, The Bad, and The Vest

It’s winter in Ohio right now, so riding is on hold, but I did get to test out some of the tracking modes before the snow hit. Let’s check out some footage.

First up, Follow Mode. As you can see, it’s tracking me perfectly here. Doing some more dynamic moves, and it’s still locked on. But, and here’s where the “it’s not always sunshine and rainbows” part comes in…

In this next clip, I’m on the bike, in Follow Mode, but… it loses me. Right there. Hmm, okay. Same scenario, but one change: I took off my motorcycle vest.

Big tip I learned: brighter clothing improves tracking accuracy. Vest off, problem solved. Tracked me perfectly that time.

Next mode: Orbit. This one does a full 360 around you. I used this at my 4-year YouTube anniversary, and it looks pretty cool.

Then there’s Dolly Track mode. Drone flies directly in front of you. Pretty cool mode too.

One thing I noticed, though, you gotta go somewhat slow for this to work well. Too fast, and you’ll go out of frame, and it’ll lose you.

Moving on to Side Track mode. Name says it all – tracks you from the side. Like Dolly Track, you need to keep a moderate pace. But check this out, I flip around here, and it’s still tracking! Really like this mode.

Last mode for now: Bird’s Eye. Goes straight up, camera pointing down, doing a spiral. Does the same on the way down. Can create some really dynamic shots.

There are actually three more modes I haven’t tested yet: Zoom Out, Ski Mode, and the new Cycling Mode. Once riding season kicks off, I’ll be trying out Zoom Out and Cycling Mode for sure.

Glitches and Updates: A Work in Progress

About those tracking glitches you saw earlier… the good news is, firmware updates are making a real difference. Since I got this drone back in August, the developers have been constantly pushing updates. In just the two months I’ve been using it, tracking has improved dramatically. And they’re still working on making it even better. That’s a huge plus. This isn’t a static product; it’s evolving.

I also got the Cycling Combo, which includes this Beacon. It’s supposed to improve tracking and can record audio. You can even attach optional joysticks to it. Honestly, I don’t think you need the joysticks unless you plan on flying manually a lot.

And the whole point for me is to avoid manual flying. As for the Beacon improving tracking, in my initial tests, I didn’t see a huge difference, but recent updates might have changed that. More testing needed there.

The Nitty-Gritty: Specs and Pricing

So, what do you really need to know about the HoverAir X1 Pro Max? Max follow speed is around 26 mph, but some modes work better at slower speeds. Battery life is about 16 minutes per charge. Best way to charge is with the charging hub. You can plug it into a power bank or wall outlet. Charging hub takes about 45 minutes for one battery or an hour for two. There’s an optional power case, but with extra batteries and a power bank compatible charging hub, I haven’t needed it.

Durability is another big plus. The propellers are protected by these “highly elastic material guards.” Lighter than carbon fiber, but seriously tough. I’ve had a few… “unplanned landings,” and it’s held up great.

Okay, the big question: price. For casual riders, and those who aren’t pro content creators, I recommend the Pro version. Basic combo is around $499 – drone and one battery. But, I highly suggest getting extra batteries and the charging hub. For two extra batteries and the hub, you’re looking at around $716 total. Not bad at all.

If you’re a content creator or just want the best, go for the Pro Max. With two extra batteries and the charging hub, that’ll be around $916. Still fairly reasonable for a drone that shoots 8K, has HDR, and better frame rates.

Final Verdict: Rider-Friendly and Fun, With Room to Grow

What I really love about the HoverAir X1 Pro Max is the simplicity. Seriously, seconds to get it in the air. For motorcycle riders who want to capture their adventures without a ton of hassle, this drone is a solid option.

It’s compact, easy to use, and the tracking modes are getting better all the time with firmware updates. It’s not perfect, and you might encounter some glitches or tracking hiccups, especially in challenging conditions, but for grab-and-go riding footage, it’s pretty awesome.

The post Hands-Free Drone for Motorcycle Vlogs: HoverAir X1 Pro Max Review first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

Messing with trailers, sketchy ramps, or fighting your gear should not be part of the plan. A solid hitch carrier keeps things simple with no plates, no parking nightmares, and no wasted time.

This guide cuts through the junk to show you the hitch carriers that actually hold up when the road gets rough. The ones built to keep your bike secure without turning your trip into a gamble.

A Few Hard Truths Before You Buy:

• Weight ratings do not tell the whole story. Cheap carriers might claim a 500-pound limit, but weak welds, soft steel, or a bad anti-wobble setup can ruin your day. Build quality matters more than a sticker number.
• Strapping your bike right matters just as much as the carrier. Compress the suspension, use real straps, and lock it down at multiple points. A good carrier cannot save you from a bad tie-down job.
• Your hitch’s tongue weight rating is the real limit. Forget what the carrier says it can hold. If your vehicle’s hitch cannot take the load, you are asking for handling problems and a bad day.
• Loading ease makes or breaks the experience. Shoving a heavy bike up a short ramp with no tilt or support is a good way to wreck your back or your bike. Longer ramps, tilting beds, and solid chocks matter.

Looking for theft protection? Check out our top-rated motorcycle locks.

Top Picks: Best Motorcycle Hitch Carriers

After putting the options through the wringer and talking to riders who use them, two carriers stand out:

Best Overall / Heavy Duty	Best Premium / Feature-Rich
Black Widow MCC-600	MotoTote Trusted Motorcycle Hitch Carrier
Solid steel build, real 600-pound capacity, and a built-in wheel chock that does the job. Heavy, but it hauls serious bikes without drama.	Strong materials, smart storable ramp, adjustable chock, and tight stability. It costs more, but it loads easier and holds firm even after a long haul.
Check Price on Black Widow Pro	Check Price on Amazon

Best Overall / Heavy Duty

Black Widow MCC-600

Solid steel build, real 600-pound capacity, and a built-in wheel chock that does the job. Heavy, but it hauls serious bikes without drama.

Check Price on Black Widow Pro

Best Premium / Feature-Rich

MotoTote Trusted Motorcycle Hitch Carrier

Strong materials, smart storable ramp, adjustable chock, and tight stability. It costs more, but it loads easier and holds firm even after a long haul.

Check Price on Amazon

Types of Motorcycle Hitch Carriers

Most hitch carriers fall into a few clear categories depending on how they are built and what they can handle. Knowing the difference saves you from bolting the wrong setup to your rig.

Heavy Duty Steel Carriers (up to around 600 lbs)

Built from solid steel and made to take a beating. Good for hauling heavier dirt bikes, adventure bikes, and a lot of street bikes. They are heavier to move around, but they bring serious strength for the money. Always check your bike’s weight before trusting the numbers.

Aluminum Carriers (around 400–500 lbs capacity)

Lighter to lift, easier to install, and less of a pain when you need to pull it off the truck. Perfect for dirt bikes and lighter dual-sports. You give up some load capacity compared to steel, but the weight savings can make a big difference if you are solo loading.

Feature-Rich and Premium Carriers

The high-end stuff. Smarter designs, better materials, longer ramps, tilting beds, integrated wheel chocks, and anti-wobble systems that actually work. These carriers cost more, but they make loading safer and easier, especially if you haul bikes a lot.

Next up, breaking down the carriers that are actually worth a look if you’re hauling bikes here in the States.

Black Widow MCC-600 Steel Motorcycle Carrier (Top Pick – Overall/Heavy Duty)

For regular racers hauling around purpose-built track machines (dirt and asphalt) the Black Widow MCC-600 Steel Motorcycle Carrier is the trusted hitch hauler. Built from thick, powder-coated steel, it is rated for 600 pounds and can take a beating. That weight limit covers dirt bikes, most ADV bikes, and a lot of street machines without blinking.

The thing is heavy, no way around it. It weighs close to 100 pounds on its own, so mounting it up takes some muscle. But once it is bolted on, it feels rock solid. No flexing, no sketchy welds. The anti-rattle device actually does its job too, keeping the whole setup from shifting even when the pavement gets ugly.

The ramp is a real win here. It is extra long, about 71 inches, and coated for better grip. That saves a lot of trouble when loading up solo, especially with heavier bikes. It also stores right on the carrier when it is not being used, so there is no separate piece flopping around in the truck bed.

The MCC-600 is not fancy and it does not try to be. It is just a tough, no-nonsense carrier that hauls many bikes without making it a gamble. If the priority is strength and stability over saving a few pounds, this one earns its spot.

The Catch? Being heavy-duty steel, the carrier itself is quite heavy (around 96 lbs), making it potentially difficult for one person to install/remove from the hitch. The included ramp is functional but might feel a bit short/steep for very heavy, long-wheelbase bikes. 

Silver Lining: Offers a very high 600 lb weight capacity and robust steel construction at an excellent price point. Includes essential features like the integrated chock, ramp storage, and anti-wobble device, making it a reliable workhorse. 

Alternative Option: The VersaHaul VH-SPORT RO offers similar capacity with a slightly different ramp/chock design and is another highly-regarded heavy-duty steel option.

Black Widow MCC-600 Heavy Duty Steel Motorcycle Carrier

A rugged, hitch-mounted carrier built to handle up to 600 lbs with stability and ease.

Pros:

• Solid steel construction with powder coating for long-term durability
• Extra-long ramp with grit-coat surface makes loading smoother and safer
• Built-in adjustable wheel chock and anti-rattle device improve transport stability

Cons:

• Ramp installs on right side only, limiting flexibility

Check Price on Black Widow Pro Check Price on Amazon

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

Our Review: We have not run a full long-haul test on the Black Widow MCC-600 yet. Still, the build looks legit, and for riders needing a strong, no-nonsense carrier without breaking the bank, it is hard to ignore. Check for updates soon on It’s Better On The Road.

MotoTote MTX Sport Rev 2 Carrier (Top Pick – Premium/Feature Rich)

Out of all the carriers out there, the MotoTote MTX Sport Rev 2 provides great stability for transporting a heavy motorcycle.. Everything about it feels purpose-built. The frame is strong, the ramp is longer than most, and the whole setup is designed to stay tight without needing constant adjustments.

The Zero-Wobble hitch mount locks the carrier down solid, and the adjustable front chock does a good job holding the tire steady. The loading ramp gives a nice shallow angle, which makes life easier when dealing with bigger bikes. Having the ramp store right on the carrier is smart too. No extra junk rolling around the truck bed.

At around 63 pounds, it is manageable to handle solo without feeling like you are wrestling the thing. The powder-coated steel feels durable enough to shrug off weather and road grime after real use. A lot of cheaper carriers start rusting or loosening up fast. This one looks ready to last the long haul.

It does not come with tie-downs, so it is worth using quality straps and securing it properly at all points. As always, checking the tongue weight rating on the vehicle is part of the game.

The MotoTote costs more than the basic setups, but for the kind of bikes worth hauling, it is a solid investment.

The Catch? It comes with a premium price tag, significantly higher than basic steel carriers. Assembly can sometimes be more involved than simpler designs due to the adjustable components. 

Silver Lining: Offers exceptional stability (ZeroWobble+), premium build quality, and intelligently designed features (ramp storage, excellent adjustable chock, good tie-down points) that genuinely make loading and hauling easier and more secure. It’s an investment in convenience and peace of mind for frequent users.

Alternative Option: High-end VersaHaul models offer competing features and robust build quality. Some riders also favor custom or semi-custom carriers for specific needs.

MotoTote Sport - Trusted Motorcycle Hitch Carrier

Premium, zero-wobble carrier built for secure transport of motorcycles up to 600 lbs.

Pros:

• Patented geometry and tie-down arm ensure superior bike stability
• Fits wide tires and long wheelbases with universal 2" hitch compatibility
• Integrated steel ramp securely hooks into the carrier and stores neatly

Cons:

• Higher price point compared to similar carriers in its class

Check Price on Amazon

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

Our Review: A deep dive on the MotoTote MTX Sport Rev 2 is in the works. Given MotoTote’s track record and the build quality packed into the MTX lineup, this carrier already stands out for serious street and ADV hauling. Full thoughts coming soon on It’s Better On The Road.

Black Widow AMC-400 Aluminum Motorcycle Carrier (For Dirt Bikes)

The Black Widow AMC-400 Aluminum Motorcycle Carrier hits the sweet spot for riders who need a lightweight setup without a lot of hassle. It weighs about 36 pounds, so moving it around and slapping it onto the hitch is way easier than dealing with heavy steel rigs.

Rated for 400 pounds, it is a good match for dirt bikes, dual-sports, and smaller street bikes. Anything heavier feels like pushing it. The included ramp is a real plus. It is 47 inches long with a slight lip at the top to help guide the wheels onto the track. It is made from aluminum too, so it is easy to lift and it stores right on the carrier with a built-in clip system. No loose parts bouncing around or getting left behind at the trailhead.

Assembly is about as straightforward as it gets. Basic bolts, simple design, nothing complicated. The anti-tilt bracket cuts down the wobble, but I would still check everything after the first few miles, especially if the roads get rough. Some riders have pointed out the ramp can flex if pushing the weight limits, so it is better to stick well below the 400-pound max for regular hauls.

The AMC-400 is not built for big ADV bikes or big cruisers. It is a lightweight, no-nonsense setup that makes quick bike transport easy without dragging a trailer behind.

The Catch? Strictly limited to 400 lbs maximum capacity, ruling out heavier street bikes, ADVs, or cruisers. Aluminum construction, while strong, might not feel quite as bombproof as heavy steel carriers to some users. Usually lacks an integrated wheel chock (though one can often be added). 

Silver Lining: Significantly lighter and easier to handle/install/store than steel carriers. Provides safe, stable transport for dirt bikes and lighter motorcycles up to 400 lbs at a reasonable price. Includes ramp and anti-wobble device. 

Alternative Option: Various other brands offer aluminum carriers in the 400-500 lb range, sometimes with different ramp designs or features. Ensure they use quality aluminum and include an anti-wobble device.

Black Widow Motorcycle Hitch Carrier

Lightweight and rust-resistant aluminum carrier designed for easy transport of bikes up to 400 lbs.

Pros:

• Easy bilateral loading with roll-on, roll-off self-storing ramp
• Lightweight aluminum frame with steel hitch tube for durability
• Includes anti-rattle device, hitch pin, and youth bike adapter

Cons:

• Not suitable for motorcycles over 400 lbs

Check Price on Black Widow Pro Check Price on Amazon

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

Our Review: We have not finished putting the AMC-400 through its paces yet. That said, its lightweight setup and simple loading design make it a solid pick for dirt bikes and smaller dual-sports. Stay tuned for the full breakdown on It’s Better On The Road.

VersaHaul VH-SPORT RO Motorcycle Carrier

VersaHaul has built a strong reputation in the motorcycle carrier market, and the VH-SPORT RO reflects that legacy with premium materials, thoughtful engineering, and a design trusted by serious riders. Built from solid steel and rated for 600 pounds, this carrier is clearly made to haul heavier bikes — sport bikes, cruisers, anything with some real weight to it. It’s not light, and it’s definitely not something I’d want to mount or store casually, but when strength matters, it’s got the muscle.

The loading ramp is 71 inches long, which gives a decent slope, especially for bigger bikes. That extra length helps when loading solo and cuts down the chance of slipping a wheel or stalling halfway up. The ramp locks in for travel, so no juggling loose parts or hoping it stays in place.

There’s a wheel stop at the front, which works with the wide carrier rail and tie-down bars to keep the bike secure. The tie-down bars retract, and there are four of them — plenty of anchor points to cinch everything tight. I like that the rail is wide enough for tires just under 8 inches. That gives some wiggle room for different bikes without feeling like you’re cramming things in.

At around 111 pounds, it’s a beast to move. But that weight is part of the reason it stays planted and doesn’t bounce around. As long as the vehicle has a solid Class III or IV hitch and proper tongue weight, it’s a strong option for riders who aren’t messing around.

The Catch? Heavy steel construction means the carrier itself is heavy to handle. The included tire stops offer basic support but aren’t as secure as a dedicated integrated chock like the Black Widow or MotoTote during loading. Ramp length/style varies by exact model/revision.

 Silver Lining: Offers heavy-duty 600 lb capacity with robust steel construction from a reputable brand. The adjustable tire stops and multiple tie-down points provide secure transport. Anti-tilt device included. 

Alternative Option: The Black Widow MCC-600 offers similar capacity with an integrated chock. MotoTote offers premium features at a higher price. Joe Hauler carriers are another option known for simple, strong designs.

Versa Haul VH-Sport Sport Bike Carrier

Heavy-duty hitch-mounted carrier built for hauling sport bikes up to 600 lbs without a loading ramp.

Pros:

• Strong carbon steel build for reliable heavy-duty transport
• Four tie-down points ensure secure bike stability
• Fits standard 2" Class III/IV hitch receivers

Cons:

• Loading ramp not included

Check Price on Amazon

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

Our Review: We are still lining up a full test of the VersaHaul VH-SPORT RO. But with its heavy-duty steel build and high capacity, it is already a strong choice for hauling heavier street bikes. Full review coming to It’s Better On The Road soon.

BILT FACTORY Motorcycle Carrier

The BILT Factory Motorcycle Carrier covers the basics pretty well for a budget setup. Built from steel with a powder-coated finish, it feels solid enough for light to midweight bikes, and it is rated for 500 pounds. Works with Class III or IV trailer hitches, so fitting it to most trucks or SUVs should not be a problem.

The included ramp is a nice touch. It lets you load from either side, which comes in handy depending on how you are parked. It stores right on the carrier too, so there is no loose gear rolling around the bed. Assembly is straightforward with basic tools, and the anti-tilt bracket helps keep it from rattling on the drive.

That said, the catch is pretty clear once you spend some time around it. The steel is thinner compared to heavy-duty carriers like the MotoTote or VersaHaul. It is fine for dirt bikes and lighter machines, but if I were hauling a bigger street bike or stacking long miles, I would want something a little beefier. For occasional hauls and lighter bikes, it gets the job done without killing the wallet. 

The Catch: Build quality, materials, and especially the effectiveness of the anti-wobble mechanism can be significantly less robust than higher-priced carriers. Weld quality might be inconsistent. The roll-on chock offers some support but might not be as secure as other designs. Ramp might be short and steep. 

Silver Lining: Provides the basic functionality of a hitch carrier with a ramp and integrated chock at the lowest possible price point. Can be a viable option for lighter dirt bikes if used carefully with good tie-downs and within vehicle limits. Available conveniently through retailers like Revzilla. 

Alternative Option: Spending a bit more on an aluminum carrier like the Black Widow AMC-400 yields much lighter weight and better build quality. Used carriers from reputable brands can also be a good value.

BILT FACTORY Motorcycle Carrier

Sturdy all-steel hitch carrier with dual-side ramp loading and 500 lb capacity for convenient motorcycle transport.

Pros:

• All-steel, powder-coated frame for long-lasting durability
• Ramp attaches for easy storage and can load from either side
• Anti-tilt device minimizes hitch wobble during transit

Cons:

• Limited to motorcycles with tires up to 4.75" wide

Check Price on Revzilla

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

Our Review: A full hands-on review of the BILT Factory Motorcycle Carrier is still pending. Given BILT is Revzilla’s in-house brand, it’s likely a solid budget-friendly option for lighter bikes, and we will break it down properly soon on It’s Better On The Road.

Motorcycle Hitch Carrier Comparison

Note: Capacities, weights, and features can vary slightly by model year/revision. Check manufacturer specs. Price ranges are relative.

Choosing a Motorcycle Hitch Carrier the Right Way

Buying a carrier is not just clicking “Add to Cart” and hoping for the best. Hauling a bike the right way means checking a few critical things first.

Vehicle Compatibility (This Matters Most)

The first thing I check is the hitch. Most good carriers need a Class III or IV 2-inch receiver. Class I and II hitches are a no-go.

Then there’s tongue weight. This is the real limit. Add the carrier weight plus the bike’s full wet weight (fuel, oil, all of it). That total must stay under the vehicle’s tongue weight rating. Go over, and you’re asking for wrecked handling or a broken hitch.

A heavy bike hanging off the back will also sag the rear suspension. If the load is pushing things down too much, helper springs or airbags are worth looking into.

Carrier Capacity and Construction

I want the carrier’s weight limit to be well above my bike’s wet weight. Steel carriers usually run up to 600 pounds. Aluminum ones are lighter and easier to deal with but top out around 400 to 500 pounds. Steel is strong and cheap but heavy as hell. Aluminum saves your back, resists rust, but costs more.

Ramp Setup

Longer ramps are better. A long ramp means a shallower angle, so you’re not wrestling the bike up a wall. Bonus points if the ramp stores cleanly on the carrier. Some carriers tilt instead of needing a ramp, but they bring extra complexity and cost.

Anti-Wobble Devices

A good carrier needs a real anti-wobble setup. Not some junk clamp that barely holds. This keeps the whole rig from swaying or rattling around behind the truck.

Wheel Chocks

An integrated front wheel chock is a big help, especially when loading solo. The Black Widow MCC-600 and MotoTote setups do this right. Some others, like the Trackside, give partial support. Basic tire stops are better than nothing, but not by much.

Tie-Down Points and Loading Strategy

More tie-down points is better. I use four good ratchet or cam buckle straps. Cheap friction straps belong in the trash. The trick is to compress the front forks a little using soft loops at the handlebars, and tie the rear down pulling slightly back. No bouncing, no shifting. Never hook to anything fragile. Always double-check the straps.

Lighting and Legal Stuff

If the carrier or bike blocks taillights or the license plate, it’s not just sketchy, it might be illegal. Some states require auxiliary lights. Some carriers have mounts for that. Always good to check before the first trip.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Here are answers to some common questions about motorcycle hitch carriers:

Are motorcycle hitch carriers safe?

Good ones are. Match the carrier and vehicle ratings, load and strap properly, and use an anti-wobble device. Safety problems come from cutting corners or using junk.

How much weight can a carrier hold?

Aluminum carriers usually take 400–500 pounds. Heavy-duty steel ones handle around 600 pounds. Always check both the carrier and your vehicle’s tongue weight limit.

How much does it cost to ship a bike 2000 miles?

Shipping runs anywhere from $600 to $1500 depending on who you use, the route, and if it’s enclosed transport. Companies like HaulBikes and Federal Motorcycle Transport are solid.
A good hitch carrier will almost always be cheaper if you can haul it yourself.

Can you mount a motorcycle to a tow hitch?

Yeah, but you need a dedicated motorcycle hitch carrier in a 2-inch Class III or IV hitch. Strapping a bike directly to a tow ball is asking for a disaster.

How to transport a motorcycle without a truck?

Options:

• Hitch carrier on an SUV or van
• Small trailer
• Toy hauler RV
• Renting a truck or van
• Hiring a pro shipping company

Is it legal to tow a motorcycle?

Towing a bike with a trailer or hauling it on a carrier is legal. Just follow traffic laws, use proper lights, and secure the bike right.

How heavy is a motorcycle?

It depends:

• Dirt bikes: 200–270 pounds
• Dual-sports: 280–350 pounds
• Sport bikes: 370–450 pounds
• ADV bikes: 450–600+ pounds
• Big cruisers and baggers: 450–900+ pounds

Always check the bike’s wet weight (with all fluids) before picking a carrier.

Choosing a good hitch carrier is about matching the carrier, the bike, and the vehicle. Quality first, weight limits second, and loading it right every single time. Better to spend a few extra bucks upfront than risk the bike hitting the pavement.

Ride smart, haul safe.

The post Best Motorcycle Hitch Carriers That Actually Work first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

Give me just a few minutes, and I promise I’ll change your mind. I used to think the same way, but after experiencing the difference firsthand, I’m convinced this is an upgrade that can benefit riders of all levels, especially on the track.

Before we dive in, let me give you three key takeaways that I want you to keep in mind as we go through this:

1. It’s not about being a pro racer: Quick action throttles aren’t just for the elite. They can genuinely help novice and intermediate riders build confidence and improve throttle control, which are crucial for faster lap times and safer riding.
2. Fluidity and control are key: This isn’t about drastically increasing your speed overnight. It’s about making your throttle inputs smoother, more precise, and ultimately, more intuitive. This leads to better corner exits and more confident riding overall.
3. Small change, big impact: For a relatively modest investment, a quick action throttle can be a game-changer, eliminating hesitation, improving responsiveness, and helping you unlock those crucial tenths of a second on the track.

If you’d rather watch this review, here’s my original video on the topic:

From Skeptic to Believer: My Quick Action Throttle Revelation

Like many of you, I used to think that quick action throttles were a bit of an unnecessary extravagance, something reserved for professional racers chasing every last fraction of a second. I focused on bigger, more obvious changes to my bike, like chain and sprocket adjustments. Don’t get me wrong, things like changing your chain and sprockets do make a noticeable difference, especially in how the bike feels coming out of corners and on top end. You really feel that extra rush of acceleration when you nail the throttle. I definitely did!

But my real “aha!” moment with quick action throttles came unexpectedly due to a frustrating issue during a couple of European track days at Portimao and Jerez. I was experiencing a fueling problem in my bike where, between 9,000 and 10,500 RPM, I had a significant power dip, almost like a two-second dead spot.

This meant that whenever I rolled on the throttle, say 70%, 80%, or even 90% coming out of a corner, I’d get stuck in this flat spot and lose valuable momentum. The only way to power through it was to go to full throttle. It was a bit of a forced learning curve, but it completely changed my approach.

Suddenly, I was giving it full beans out of every corner, whenever it was sensible of course. I started focusing on maximizing those mini-straights between corners, something I learned from the insights of Simon Crafar, whose approach to track riding I really admire. He emphasizes that you win the most time on the straights. Corners are about getting from one straight to the next as efficiently as possible. Your corner speed is limited by grip, but your straight speed is not. The secret to going faster is making the straights as long as possible and the corners as short as possible. Find those areas where you can use full throttle and full braking, and exploit them to the max. And that doesn’t just mean the obvious long straights, but those little bursts between corners too.

Before this fueling issue, I was stuck at around a 1:59 lap time at Jerez, which is a decent intermediate time. But by the end of those track days, by essentially being forced to use full throttle more aggressively because of the power dip, I dropped four seconds and got down to a 1:55! Four seconds! That was a massive leap, and it came simply from growing a bit of confidence and making the most of my throttle.

Because I had to give it full throttle to get past the power issue, it broke down a mental barrier I had. As someone who was a novice rider, the idea of just pinning the throttle coming out of every turn on a bike with 180+ horsepower was a little intimidating. But this experience really shifted my mindset. Now, coming out of corners, if there’s even a hint of a straight, I’m absolutely pinning it. And a quick action throttle is a huge part of why I can do that confidently.

What Exactly IS a Quick Action Throttle?

Okay, so what exactly is a quick action throttle and how does it work? When you buy a quick action throttle kit, you’re getting a complete system designed to reduce the amount of rotation needed to reach full throttle.

Typically, a kit like the Domino Quick Action Throttle Kit includes:

• New Grips: Usually, you’ll get a set of performance grips designed to work seamlessly with the new throttle mechanism.
• Throttle Mechanism Housing: This is the core of the kit, replacing your bike’s standard throttle housing.
• Interchangeable Cams (or Reels): These are the key to adjusting the “quickness” of your throttle.  They are different sized spools that the throttle cables wrap around. Different sized cams change the ratio between your wrist movement and the throttle plate opening in your engine. Most kits come with multiple cams, allowing you to fine-tune the throttle response to your preference and riding conditions. Domino, for example, often provides green, red, and white cams.
• Green Cam: This is typically the least aggressive cam, closest to a standard throttle feel, and often recommended for street riding or less experienced track riders.
• Red Cam: A progressive cam, offering a quicker throttle response than stock, but still manageable.
• White Cam: The most aggressive cam, designed for rapid throttle response, ideal for racing and experienced track riders who want instant power delivery.
• Throttle Cables: Some kits, like the Domino kits, also include new throttle cables. These aren’t just any cables. Domino cables, for instance, are often lined with nylon internally. This reduces friction, making the throttle action incredibly smooth and plush, and also minimizes the need for lubrication, preventing dust and grime buildup. From my personal experience, the feel of these cables is a significant improvement over standard cables.

Motion Pro Rev3 Sportbike Variable Rate Throttle Kit

Similar to the Domino kit, this one gives you 4 separate cams for variable throttle sensitivities, plus throttle housing, tube, cables and grips.

Pros:

• 5 cams with varying throttle responses - from stock to highly sensitive
• Aluminum inline cable adjusters make install and adjustment easy
• Cable boot keeps dirt and dust out

Cons:

• May not fit your bike - check Revzilla

Check Price on Revzilla

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

The Wrist Movement Revelation: Why Less Rotation Makes a Big Difference

Let’s get into why a quick action throttle is so beneficial, especially on the track. I came across a fantastic explanation from some professional riders that really helped me understand it, and I want to share it with you. Grab a clip-on handlebar or even just imagine you’re holding your handlebars.

Now, think about a standard throttle. To go from closed to full throttle, you often have to make a pretty significant wrist rotation. You start with your wrist level, then twist that quarter turn to full throttle – sometimes even needing to adjust your grip to get to full throttle. Your wrist ends up quite angled, your elbow might be tucked down – try it yourself, even sitting where you are. Try rolling off slightly and then quickly getting back on the throttle. It’s not always the most fluid motion.

Now, imagine the same scenario with a quick action throttle. Instead of that big rotation, you only need to move your wrist about half as much to reach full throttle. Now your wrist isn’t all the way down and your arm isn’t locked. You’re at full power with a much smaller, more natural wrist movement. It’s not just a shorter distance to travel – it’s far more fluid.

This isn’t about getting your elbow down or knee down in corners, novice and intermediate riders, stay with me here! This is about easy movement. Easy movement of the top half of your body. When you’re fully leaned over, and you’re at full throttle with a standard throttle, your body position can become quite tense. It can feel like you’re fighting the bike a little bit. Before a corner, when you roll off the throttle, sometimes, even if you think you’ve rolled off completely, you might still be holding a little bit of throttle open – maybe 10% or 20%. Then, as you’re tipping into the corner and getting back on the gas, you might get a little surprise, that “whoa!” moment.

I’ve experienced this myself, and I know many track day riders have too. You roll off, thinking you’re at zero throttle, but you’re not quite, because that full rotation with a standard throttle sometimes isn’t perfectly consistent. Nine times out of ten, it’s fine, but that one time, it can be a little unsettling, especially when you’re already leaned over.

This is where the reduced rotation of a quick action throttle really shines. It promotes smoother, more consistent throttle inputs. It reduces the chance of accidentally carrying a bit of throttle when you think you’re fully closed, and it makes getting back on the power in a corner exit much more intuitive and controlled.

Benefits Beyond Lap Times: Fluidity, Confidence, and Reduced “Gremlins”

The benefits of a quick action throttle go beyond just shaving lap times. It’s about improving the overall riding experience, especially on the track.

• Improved Fluidity: As we discussed, the reduced rotation makes throttle inputs smoother and more fluid. This translates to smoother corner entries and exits, less jerky transitions, and a more connected feeling with the bike.
• Reduced Hesitation and Increased Confidence: Especially for riders who are still building confidence with full throttle, a quick action throttle can be a game-changer. Knowing that full power is just a smaller, more controlled wrist movement away can eliminate hesitation and encourage you to get on the gas sooner and harder. It makes the idea of “full beans” less daunting.
• Eliminating “Throttle Gremlins”: That feeling of thinking you’re fully off the throttle but still carrying a bit of gas? Quick action throttles can significantly reduce this. The shorter rotation makes it easier to ensure you are truly at zero throttle when you intend to be. This leads to more predictable and controlled corner entries.

Is a Quick Action Throttle Right For YOU?

Now, you might be wondering, “Okay, this sounds good for track riding, but is it really worth it for me?”

• Street Riding? Honestly, for purely street riding, I’d say no, it’s probably not essential. A standard throttle is perfectly adequate for most road riding situations.
• Regular Track Day Rider? Absolutely, yes! If you’re a regular track day enthusiast, a quick action throttle is a worthwhile investment. The benefits in terms of fluidity, control, and confidence on the track are significant.
• Novice or Intermediate Track Rider? Absolutely, yes! This is where it can be surprisingly beneficial.  Often, novice and intermediate riders are hesitant to go to full throttle. We’re riding bikes with nearly 200 horsepower these days, and pinning the throttle can feel intimidating. A quick action throttle makes full throttle feel less extreme, more accessible, and ultimately, less scary. It’s “quick action,” not “crazy action.”

It’s not going to magically give you 5 or 10 seconds a lap, but it will contribute to faster lap times by making you a smoother, more confident, and more efficient rider. It’s one less thing to think about when you’re chasing those tenths.

Final Thoughts: Unleash Your Track Potential

So, there you have it – my take on quick action throttles. Please, don’t be hesitant about this upgrade. It’s not a massive expense. Depending on where you get it, a good kit will cost you somewhere in the range of $150 to $200.

Motion Pro Rev3 Sportbike Variable Rate Throttle Kit

Similar to the Domino kit, this one gives you 4 separate cams for variable throttle sensitivities, plus throttle housing, tube, cables and grips.

Pros:

• 5 cams with varying throttle responses - from stock to highly sensitive
• Aluminum inline cable adjusters make install and adjustment easy
• Cable boot keeps dirt and dust out

Cons:

• May not fit your bike - check Revzilla

Check Price on Revzilla

We may earn commissions if you make a purchase. This keeps our site ad-free and never sponsored.

I get all my parts from Road Race Performance Shropshire. They’ve been fantastic and offer really good discounts. If you mention my YouTube channel, “Chasing Tenths,” they often give a discount of 5% to 10%, or even more, depending on the product. I’ll put their contact details in the description below.  Definitely check them out.

Honestly, a quick action throttle is an upgrade that’s worth having if you’re serious about track riding. It can eliminate so many of those “gremlins” in your head about full throttle, improve your fluidity, and boost your confidence.

For me, a quick action throttle is like Miracle-Gro for plants. It helps you grow in those crucial corner exits on the track when you really want to get on the gas and go!

Alright guys, that’s enough from me for today. Thanks for watching! Please do subscribe to the channel if you haven’t already – I really appreciate your support. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

The post Why a Quick Action Throttle is a Game Changer first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

Here are three unconventional truths about your motorcycle suspension that you need to grasp right now:

1. Your stock suspension is probably better than you think. Before you rush out to buy expensive upgrades, give your current setup a chance. A proper setup of your existing suspension can make a world of difference.
2. Sag is everything. If you ignore sag, you’re missing the most fundamental aspect of suspension tuning. Seriously, if you don’t at least think about sag after reading this, I haven’t done my job.
3. Preload is your best friend (for free!). Forget complex adjustments for a moment. Just understanding and using preload correctly can dramatically improve your ride, especially when you load up your bike for a trip.

Think of it like this: your coffee machine is set up for some fancy barista, and your office chair is designed for someone else. Your bike’s suspension? It’s likely set up for a mythical “average” rider, who probably doesn’t exist. Just like you adjust your chair and coffee machine, you need to adjust your suspension. And no, unless you are a 75-kilo Dutch lady (which is who my T7 seemed to be set up for!), the factory settings probably aren’t perfect for you. So stick around, and let’s dive into the world of motorcycle suspension.

If you’d rather watch this guide, here’s my original video on the topic:

Building Suspension from Scratch

Let’s start simple, building a suspension system from the ground up. Imagine your motorcycle frame. Now, let’s add a wheel. If we just weld that wheel directly to the frame, we’re in for a very bumpy ride. Every imperfection in the road would be directly transmitted to you. Not ideal.

To improve this, we hinge the wheel to the frame using a swingarm. Now, the wheel can move up and down independently of the frame. Much better, right? But there’s still a problem.

If we put the bike on the ground now, the swingarm will just pivot, and the bike will collapse. We need something to support the bike and allow for controlled movement. That’s where the spring comes in.

The Spring: The Heart of the System

The spring is the first crucial component of our suspension. By placing a spring between the bike’s frame and the swingarm, we prevent the bike from collapsing and introduce the ability to absorb bumps.

Now, we need to consider sag. Sag is simply how much the suspension compresses when you sit on the bike. It’s a critical measurement because it dictates how much suspension travel is available for bump absorption and affects your bike’s handling.

Why Sag Matters

Too much sag, and you’ll use up too much suspension travel just sitting on the bike. This leaves less travel to absorb bumps, potentially leading to a harsh ride and bottoming out. On the other hand, too little sag (or no sag) means the wheel can’t extend downwards to follow dips and holes in the road. Remember, suspension isn’t just for comfort. It’s crucial for maintaining traction by keeping the wheel in contact with the road surface at all times. Suspension also heavily influences handling, affecting braking, cornering, and overall stability.

Most motorcycle manuals provide recommended sag values, both for the front and rear suspension. A general rule of thumb is around 30% of the total suspension travel as rider sag. This means that when the suspension is fully extended, and you sit on the bike, it should compress about 30% of its total travel.

This is why spring rate, or spring stiffness, is so important. It’s not just about comfort. Incorrect sag due to the wrong spring rate dramatically affects handling.

Too much rear sag, and your bike will feel stable at high speeds but sluggish in corners.

Too little sag, and the front end will be lower, making the bike turn in quickly in technical sections but feel unstable and wobbly at higher speeds.

Preload: Fine-Tuning for Weight

Okay, you’ve got your spring, and the sag is (hopefully) close to correct. But what happens when you decide to load up your bike for a trip, adding luggage and maybe a passenger? Suddenly, your carefully set sag is completely off. It’s sagging way too much.

Do you need to swap out your spring every time you change your load? Thankfully, no. That’s where preload comes to the rescue. Preload is an adjustment that compresses the spring before you even sit on the bike.

Think of it this way: a spring has a spring rate, often measured in Newtons per millimeter (N/mm) or kilograms per millimeter (kg/mm).

Let’s use kg/mm for simplicity. A spring rate of 1 kg/mm means that it compresses 1mm for every 1 kilogram of force applied. It’s linear, so 2kg compresses it 2mm, and so on.

Now, if you preload the spring by compressing it, say, 3mm using a preload adjustment, it will take 3 kilograms of force just to start moving the spring. Without preload, it would react to even the smallest weight. By adding preload, you essentially shift the spring’s working range, making it support more weight before compressing into the sag zone.

So, when you add luggage or a passenger, you can increase preload to compensate for the extra weight and bring your sag back to the correct range. This is why preload adjusters are often designed to be easily accessible and adjustable, sometimes even without tools.

Setting Sag: A Practical Approach

How do you actually set the correct sag? While there are fancy tools, a simple method works just fine. You need to measure the suspension travel in three states: fully extended, bike weight only (free sag), and with rider and gear (rider sag).

For my bike, I use a piece of cord with a screw and two markers. The screw goes into a hole in the axle. I mark a point on the rear fender with some tape. First, I lift the rear wheel off the ground to get the fully extended measurement. This is my starting point, the first marker on my cord.

Then, I measure down 6cm (60mm) from that point on the cord and make a second marker. Why 6cm? My bike, a Ténéré 700, has 200mm of rear suspension travel, and 30% of 200mm is 60mm. This 60mm represents my target rider sag.

Now, with all my riding gear on, I sit on the bike in my normal riding position. I check the position of the second marker on the cord relative to the mark on the fender. If the cord’s marker is above the fender mark, I have too much sag. If it’s below, I have too little.

On my Ténéré 700, the preload adjuster is a large, easily accessible knob. This is designed for frequent adjustments. You turn it to compress or release the spring, changing the preload and therefore the sag. There’s no single “magic” preload setting. It depends entirely on the weight on the bike. Adjust it as needed!

Spring Rate vs. Preload: Knowing the Difference

It’s tempting to think, “If my spring is too soft, can’t I just crank up the preload to get the right sag?” The answer is yes, to a degree, but it’s not ideal. A spring that is fundamentally too weak for your weight will have other negative characteristics beyond just sag. It might compress too easily through its travel, feel “mushy,” and not perform optimally.

If you use too much preload on a weak spring to achieve the correct rider sag, you might end up lifting the entire bike higher than intended. This can negatively affect handling and geometry. This leads us to the concept of free sag.

Rider sag (or race sag) is the sag measurement with you and your gear on the bike – the one we’ve been focusing on so far. Free sag is how much the bike sags under its own weight, without you on it. After setting rider sag with preload, you should check free sag. There should be a noticeable amount of free sag, indicating that the suspension is not completely topped out by excessive preload.

A small amount of free sag, around an inch or 2.5cm, suggests that the spring rate is reasonably well-matched to your weight and that the preload adjustment is within a good range. If there’s virtually no free sag, even with minimal preload, it’s a strong indication that your spring is too stiff. Conversely, if you need maximum preload to achieve correct rider sag and still have excessive free sag, your spring is likely too soft.

With the right spring rate and properly set sag, you’re halfway to a well-sorted suspension. But if we went riding now, we’d have another problem: a bouncy, uncontrolled ride. That’s where the damper comes in.

The Damper: Controlling Motion

The spring stores and releases energy, but on its own, it oscillates wildly. The damper’s job is to control this motion, preventing the “pogo stick” effect. Dampers use hydraulic resistance to slow down suspension movement, both during compression and rebound.

Imagine a syringe filled with oil. Pushing the plunger is easy with air, harder with water, and even harder with thicker oil. The resistance to movement depends on the fluid viscosity and the size of the opening the fluid is forced through. Motorcycle dampers work on the same principle. They consist of a cylinder filled with oil, a piston, and valves with adjustable orifices.

By adjusting the size of the valve openings, we control the speed at which oil can flow through the damper. Smaller openings create more resistance and slower movement; larger openings allow faster movement. There are two primary damper adjustments: compression and rebound.

Compression damping controls the speed at which the suspension compresses when encountering a bump. Rebound damping controls the speed at which the suspension extends back to its original position after compression. These adjustments are typically made using clickers or screws on the suspension components.

Adjusting Compression and Rebound

Unlike preload, which is easily measured and set based on sag, compression and rebound adjustments are more about feel and fine-tuning. Your bike likely came with factory settings for compression and rebound, usually listed in the owner’s manual.

These settings are a good starting point. They are often expressed in “clicks” from the fully closed position. For example, the manual might specify “9 clicks out” for rear compression damping. This means you turn the adjuster clockwise until it’s fully closed, then counter-clockwise 9 clicks.

Compression Damping: If your suspension bottoms out too easily on big bumps or feels too soft and dives excessively under braking or in corners, you might need to increase compression damping. Increasing compression damping makes it harder for the suspension to compress, providing more support.

Rebound Damping: Rebound damping is perhaps the trickier adjustment. Too little rebound damping can make the ride feel bouncy or shaky, as the suspension springs back too quickly after compression. Too much rebound damping, and the suspension can “pack down.” This happens when the suspension compresses on a bump but doesn’t extend back out quickly enough before encountering the next bump. Over time, the suspension effectively gets “stuck” lower in its travel, reducing available suspension and making the ride harsh.

Rebound is the adjustment I typically touch the least. Once I find a setting that works well, I usually leave it alone. Compression damping, however, I might adjust more frequently depending on the type of riding. For technical, rough terrain, I might increase compression damping for more support on bigger hits. For smoother gravel touring, I might soften the compression to improve small bump compliance and comfort.

Key Takeaways: Suspension Simplified

So, what are the main points to remember?

1. Prioritize Spring Rate and Sag: Get the correct spring rate for your weight and set your sag properly. This is the foundation of good suspension performance.
2. Utilize Preload: Use preload to fine-tune sag for varying loads. It’s a simple and effective adjustment.
3. Understand Compression and Rebound: Experiment with compression damping to control bottoming and dive. Adjust rebound damping cautiously to prevent a bouncy ride or packing down.

Before you consider expensive suspension upgrades, take the time to understand and adjust your stock suspension. You might be surprised at how much improvement you can achieve just by properly setting it up. For Ténéré 700 owners, especially pre-2023 models like mine, you can even try my personal suspension settings as a starting point. Just adjusting the clickers can unlock a lot of hidden potential in your stock suspension and demonstrate that you can achieve a much better feel without immediately spending money on aftermarket components – except perhaps for springs if needed.

Get your springs and sag sorted first. Then you can think about all the fancy suspension upgrades and bling for your bike. It’s all about getting the basics right first.

Thanks for reading! I hope this has demystified motorcycle suspension for you. Leave your questions and comments below, and feel free to correct any mistakes I’ve made in the comments. Let’s learn together!

The post Motorcycle Suspension: Master Sag, Preload, Damping for Bikes first appeared on It's Better On The Road.