Bug guts smeared across the headlight, chain fling welded to the swing arm, dried mud and grime baked into every corner, it’s not a great look, and worse, it’s not great for your bike.

If that scenario hits a little too close to home, you’re in the right place. This guide is for riders who want their machine to look sharp without spending half the weekend scrubbing fairings. No miracle sprays, just the products that actually work, the stuff to skip, and how to get the job done efficiently.

Because keeping your bike clean isn’t just about pride. It’s about protection, performance, and making sure your ride lasts as long—and looks as good—as it should.

Quick Picks: Best Motorcycle Cleaners

Best Overall Cleaner	Muc-Off Nano Tech Motorcycle Cleaner 4.5 An eco-friendly, nano-tech powered cleaner that breaks down grime at a molecular level without damaging your bike.	Check Price on Revzilla Check Price on Amazon
Best Quick Detailer	Original Bike Spirits Spray Cleaner and Polish 5.0 A daily-use waterless cleaner that removes grime and polishes your bike while helping prevent rust.	Check Price on Revzilla Check Price on Amazon
Best for Specialty Surfaces	Klock Werks Matte Works Paint Cleaner 5.0 A versatile cleaner designed to maintain the integrity of matte finishes without adding shine, while also safe for use on other surfaces.	Check Price on Revzilla Check Price on Amazon
Best All-in-One Solution	Muc-Off Motorcycle Pressure Washer Bundle 5.0 A premium all-in-one cleaning solution designed specifically for motorcycles and bicycles, combining powerful pressure washing with safe, surface-sensitive components.	Check Price on Revzilla Check Price on Amazon

Best Overall Cleaner

Muc-Off Nano Tech Motorcycle Cleaner

4.5

An eco-friendly, nano-tech powered cleaner that breaks down grime at a molecular level without damaging your bike.

Check Price on Revzilla

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Best Quick Detailer

Original Bike Spirits Spray Cleaner and Polish

5.0

A daily-use waterless cleaner that removes grime and polishes your bike while helping prevent rust.

Check Price on Revzilla

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Best for Specialty Surfaces

Klock Werks Matte Works Paint Cleaner

5.0

A versatile cleaner designed to maintain the integrity of matte finishes without adding shine, while also safe for use on other surfaces.

Check Price on Revzilla

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Best All-in-One Solution

Muc-Off Motorcycle Pressure Washer Bundle

5.0

A premium all-in-one cleaning solution designed specifically for motorcycles and bicycles, combining powerful pressure washing with safe, surface-sensitive components.

Check Price on Revzilla

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The Real Reason You Need Motorcycle Cleaners

Yeah, a shiny bike looks great, but there’s a lot more going on under the surface when you keep it clean. It’s the easiest way to keep tabs on your ride’s health. A clean engine makes it easier to spot leaks. A polished wheel shows off that tiny crack in your tire before it turns into a blowout. Even a wiped-down chain lets you catch slack or tight spots before they wreck your sprockets.

And then there’s the long game. Cleaning keeps rust, oxidation, and fading at bay. Stuff like bug splatter, droppings, and salt don’t just look bad: they can break down paint, metal, and plastics over time if you leave them sitting. 

Let that stuff sit and it’ll eat through paint and finish fast. A proper wash clears the junk, preserves your gear, and helps your parts last longer (yes, including that chain you just dropped 150 bucks on). Less wear, more miles, smoother rides. It’s basic care that pays off every time you twist the throttle.

Rookie Mistakes That’ll Wreck Your Ride 

Even experienced riders fall for these:

• Spraying a hot engine. Always let your bike cool before washing to avoid cracked metal and cooked finishes.
  
• Grabbing dish soap. It strips wax, dries rubber, and ruins paint. Use cleaners built for bikes.
  
• Blasting with a pressure washer. Unless it’s bike-specific, it can wreck electronics and seals.
  

We’ll call out more of these mistakes throughout the guide, so you can clean smarter, not harder.

Grab the Good Stuff: Gear and Cleaners That Actually Work

Alright, this is where the magic happens. No, not with unicorn foam or overpriced detailing kits,just solid, reliable products that get the job done without wasting your Saturday. You don’t need an entire shelf of sprays and potions. A solid cleaner, the right tools, and a little know-how go a long way.

Your Go-To: Motorcycle Wash/Shampoo

This is your go-to cleaner, the stuff you’ll be using most. You want something specifically designed for motorcycles, not your neighbor’s car or your dinner plates. These cleaners are usually pH-balanced, meaning they’re tough on dirt but gentle on paint, plastics, and metal. Bonus points if it doesn’t strip off wax or protective coatings every time you use it.

S100 Total Cycle Cleaner 

Why it works: S100 consistently performs well in tests and among riders. It’s a spray-on, hose-off formula (though agitation always helps!) that clings to surfaces to break down dirt, grease, and bug splatters with minimal fuss. It’s known for being safe on most motorcycle surfaces when used as directed.

What to keep in mind: Some find it a bit pricey for frequent washes. If you’re washing your bike weekly, a concentrated wash like Muc-Off Nano Tech Motorcycle Cleaner (which also generally tests well for being effective and relatively safe with its pH around 12 when diluted, though pure concentrate can be stronger) can be more economical.

S100 Total Cycle Cleaner

A powerful spray-on, hose-off cleaner that reaches hidden grime to protect your bike from rust and corrosion.

Pros:

• Deep-cleans hard-to-reach areas
• Safe for all finishes
• Quick and easy to use

Cons:

• Not effective without a strong water stream

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Muc-Off Nano Tech Motorcycle Cleaner

Why it works: Muc-Off’s Nano Tech formula is designed to break down dirt and grime on a molecular level. It’s biodegradable, safe on most finishes (including anodized metal and carbon fiber), and works well as a spray-on, rinse-off solution.

The formula clings to vertical surfaces and penetrates built-up grime, even in hard-to-reach areas. It’s a favorite among riders who want both performance and eco-friendliness.

What to keep in mind: The pink liquid looks mild, but the concentrate has a pH around 12. While it is generally safe when diluted, using it undiluted may be too harsh for sensitive surfaces. It’s best to follow dilution guidelines, especially for frequent use. Agitation with a soft brush helps loosen caked-on grime, and rinsing thoroughly is important. The cleaner is available in ready-to-use bottles, but the concentrate version offers much better value for regular cleaning.

Muc-Off Nano Tech Motorcycle Cleaner

An eco-friendly, nano-tech powered cleaner that breaks down grime at a molecular level without damaging your bike.

Pros:

• Safe for all surfaces including brake pads and rotors
• Biodegradable and free from harsh chemicals
• Powerful cleaning with minimal scrubbing

Cons:

• Slightly higher price compared to basic cleaners

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The Quick Spruce-Up: Detailers & Quick Cleaners

For light dust, fingerprints, or post-ride touch-ups between full washes.

Original Bike Spirits Spray Cleaner and Polish

Why it works: This is a classic all-in-one cleaner and polish, great for a quick wipe-down on paint, chrome, plastic, and even windscreens. It leaves a slick, anti-static finish. Many riders swear by it. (S100 also makes a Quick Cleaner that tests well for waterless jobs).

What to keep in mind: This product is best for light surface cleaning and touch-ups rather than removing heavy grime or stuck-on debris. It works well on dry bikes, so avoid using it on muddy or wet surfaces to prevent scratching. Overspray can leave slick spots on grips, footpegs, or tires, so spray onto a microfiber cloth for more precise application. It also contains petroleum distillates, which may not be suitable for all matte finishes or sensitive plastics, always spot test first. While great for shows or quick refreshes, it doesn’t replace a full wash and polish when deep cleaning is needed.

Original Bike Spirits Spray Cleaner and Polish

A daily-use waterless cleaner that removes grime and polishes your bike while helping prevent rust.

Pros:

• Cleans and polishes without water
• Safe for painted and chrome surfaces
• Adds water-repelling and rust-resistant protection

Cons:

• Not ideal for deep cleaning hard-to-reach areas

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The Showstopper Shine: Metal Polishes

For chrome, aluminum, stainless steel, bring back the sparkle from tarnish and oxidation.

Honda Spray Cleaner & Polish

Why it works: This long-time favorite delivers excellent all-around performance as both a cleaner and a polish. It removes dust, grime, bugs, and light grease while leaving a smooth, glossy protective finish. Safe for paint, chrome, plastic, and even windscreens, it’s a true multi-surface product—and a go-to for quick cleanup and shine in one step.

What to keep in mind: Though branded as a Honda product, it’s widely used across all makes and models thanks to its effectiveness. It’s an aerosol, so apply in a ventilated area and spray onto a microfiber towel to avoid overspray on tires or grips. Not intended for matte finishes. Also, it can replace multiple products in your kit, making it a great minimalist option.

Honda Spray Cleaner & Polish

A complete detailer in a can that cleans, polishes, and protects your bike without needing water.

Pros:

• Cleans and polishes multiple surfaces including paint and chrome
• Offers UV protection and repels water like wax
• Antistatic formula helps reduce dust buildup

Cons:

• May require more effort to buff for a high-gloss finish

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Specialty Situations: Matte Finishes & Bug Removers

Muc-Off Matt Finish Detailer

Why it works: Specifically formulated for matte and satin finishes, this detailer safely removes fingerprints, smudges, and light dust without adding shine or streaking. It restores the clean, flat look that matte lovers want, while adding a layer of protection that helps repel dust and grime. It’s safe for use on matte paint, vinyl wraps, and helmets.

What to keep in mind: Unlike standard detailers, this product contains no gloss agents or waxes, making it ideal for maintaining the even, muted finish of matte surfaces. Spray directly onto a microfiber towel rather than the bike to avoid overspray, and avoid using it on hot surfaces for best results. While great for touch-ups, it won’t replace a full wash when heavier grime is involved.

Muc-Off Matte Finish Detailer

A premium spray designed specifically for matte and satin finishes, keeping them clean without adding unwanted shine.

Pros:

• Tailored for matte paint, satin finishes, and vinyl wraps
• Leaves a streak-free, non-glossy protective layer
• Helps reduce future dirt buildup
• Safe for use on carbon fiber

Cons:

• Not intended for glossy surfaces
• Small 250mL size may run out quickly for frequent users

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Klock Werks Matte Works Paint Cleaner

Why it works Designed specifically for matte and denim finishes, this cleaner removes dust, fingerprints, and light grime without adding unwanted shine. It’s alcohol-free and won’t strip protective coatings.

What to keep in mind: Developed by a trusted name in custom baggers, it’s a go-to choice for show-quality matte paint maintenance. Comes in a pump spray bottle, making it easy to control application and avoid overspray.

Pro tip: Pair with a soft microfiber or matte-specific towel to avoid leaving streaks or residue.

Klock Werks Matte Works Paint Cleaner

A versatile cleaner designed to maintain the integrity of matte finishes without adding shine, while also safe for use on other surfaces.

Pros:

• Formulated specifically for matte finishes — no unwanted shine
• Multi-surface safe: works on chrome, windshields, leather, and painted finishes
• Effectively removes bugs and road debris

Cons:

• Not intended for gloss enhancement

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Motul E7 Insect Remover

Why it works: Bug splatter and tar are more than ugly—they’re acidic and damaging if left unchecked. Motul E7 is specially formulated to soften and lift dried-on bugs, road grime, and tar without harsh scrubbing. It’s safe for use on windscreens, fairings, mirrors, and paint.

What to keep in mind: Spray it on, let it sit for a minute or two, but don’t let it dry on the surface. Rinse thoroughly to avoid streaks or residue, especially in the sun. This isn’t a substitute for a full wash, but it’s ideal for targeted cleanup between rides. For quick fixes during a road trip, Bike Brite Moto Cleaning Kit can help with lighter bug splatter.

Motul E7 Insect Remover Spray

A budget-friendly, targeted solution for removing insects, bird droppings, and organic grime from a wide range of motorcycle surfaces.

Pros:

• Effective on bugs, bird droppings, and organic residues
• Safe for use on windscreens, fairings, paint, metal, mirrors, and plastics
• Generous 13.5 oz (400ml) bottle

Cons:

• Not a multi-purpose polish or protectant — strictly a cleaner

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The Grime Buster: Our Top Chain Cleaner

Chain maintenance isn’t separate from bike cleaning, it’s a crucial part of the whole process. A sparkling tank and fairings mean little if your chain is packed with old lube and grit. That’s why, even in a general cleanup, it pays to give your chain the attention it deserves.

While we dive deeper into options in our full Best Motorcycle Chain Lubes guide, here’s our top pick you should know about:

Motul C1 Chain Clean

Why it works: Motul’s C1 Chain Clean is specifically formulated to dissolve old gunk without harming sensitive O, X, or Z-rings. A clean chain is ready for fresh lube, ensuring smoother power and longer life.

What to keep in mind: This is an aerosol cleaner, so it’s quick and easy to apply, but it does require a well-ventilated space and some care around painted surfaces. Be sure to protect your rear tire, brake rotor, and other sensitive parts from overspray. For those avoiding aerosols, Maxima Clean Up Chain Cleaner is a great non-aerosol option. 

Motul C1 Chain Clean

Powerful aerosol chain cleaner that removes grime and grease quickly and safely.

Pros:

• Effective on all chain types including O-ring and X-ring
• Fast-evaporating formula leaves no residue
• Chlorine-free and safe for frequent use

Cons:

• Only available in a single size option

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The All-In-One Powerhouse

Muc-Off Motorcycle Pressure Washer Bundle

Why it works: This is the ultimate wash system for serious riders. Designed specifically for motorcycles, it includes three pressure lances (each tailored for different surfaces) plus a snow foam lance that helps lift grime before rinsing. It’s compatible with Muc-Off’s own cleaners and is often sold as part of a bundled kit.

What to keep in mind: It’s definitely a premium investment (we listed it as a unique gift for motorcycle riders). But unlike generic pressure washers, this one is engineered with bikes in mind, reducing the risk of damage to bearings, electronics, or decals. The snow foam feature also speeds up the cleaning process and minimizes agitation. If you wash your bike often, the cost balances out in safety, speed, and satisfaction.

Muc-Off Motorcycle Pressure Washer Bundle

A premium all-in-one cleaning solution designed specifically for motorcycles and bicycles, combining powerful pressure washing with safe, surface-sensitive components.

Pros:

• Designed for delicate bike parts
• Includes 3 lances, snow foam lance, cleaners, lube & cloths
• Easy bottle-to-foam application

Cons:

• Needs power & water source

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Motorcycle Cleaners Comparison

Your Step-by-Step Motorcycle Cleaning Ritual

Alright, you’ve got your gear lined up. Now it’s time to give your bike the kind of wash that actually makes a difference. Not just for looks, but for longevity, performance, and the satisfaction of knowing your machine is dialed in. Here’s your full cleaning process from start to finish.

The Wash Workflow

Prep and Setup

• Make sure the bike is cool to the touch.
• Park in a shaded spot to prevent spotting from fast-drying cleaners.
• Gather your gear: hose with spray nozzle, two buckets (soapy and rinse), wash mitts or sponges, soft and stiff brushes, chain cleaning tools, microfiber drying towels, and your selected products.
• Optionally, cover the exhaust outlet and any sensitive electronics, though careful water use usually suffices.

The Pre-Rinse

Gently hose down the bike from top to bottom to remove loose dirt and debris.

Wheels and Tires First (The Pro Move)

• These are usually the dirtiest.
• Spray on wheel cleaner or bike wash and scrub with a stiff brush.
• Rinse thoroughly.

Chain Reaction – Cleaning the Drivetrain

• Place a drip tray under the chain.
• Apply chain cleaner (like Motul C1), scrub with a chain brush, and rinse.

The Main Wash – Suds Time!

• Mix motorcycle shampoo in one bucket and use clean rinse water in the second.
• Alternatively, use a spray-on cleaner (like S100) and let it dwell.
• Use the two-bucket method: dip wash mitt in soap, clean top to bottom, rinse mitt frequently in the clean water bucket.
• Clean by section: tank and seat, fairings, engine. Use soft brushes or bug sponges for stuck-on grime. Agitation is key.

Rinse Thoroughly

Rinse the entire bike from top to bottom and ensure all soap residue is gone.

Drying – The Often-Rushed Step

This prevents water spots and streaks.

Option 1: Air power – Use a motorcycle dryer/blower (like Blo Air-S) or a clean-setting leaf blower.

Option 2: Towel power – Use clean microfiber towels to pat dry (not wipe). Start top down and use separate towels for paint and greasy areas.

Don’t forget mirrors, the instrument panel, and behind the fairings.

Polish and Wax – The Protection and Pop

• Bike should be completely dry.
• Use polish if the paint has dullness or minor swirls (apply with foam pad, buff with microfiber).
• Apply wax (like Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax) in a thin coat, let it haze, then buff off.
• For chrome and metal, polish with Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish.

Detail the Details:

After the main wash, take a moment to freshen up the finer points. Clean the seat using a material-specific cleaner, and apply a plastic or rubber protectant to trim pieces, just be careful to avoid slippery spots like tires, footpegs, and controls. Finish by cleaning the windscreen and mirrors with Plexus or a safe glass cleaner to restore clear visibility.

Lube the Chain:

Once the chain is fully clean and dry, it’s time to re-lubricate. Apply your preferred chain lube evenly to the inside run while rotating the wheel, ensuring full coverage. Afterward, wipe off any excess to prevent fling and keep things running smoothly.

Buying Guide: How to Choose Your Cleaning Crew

Feeling a bit overwhelmed? Don’t sweat it. Choosing right is about matching to your bike, riding style, and effort. Here’s what to keep in mind:

• Factor in your bike’s specific finishes. Gloss paint, matte paint (NO gloss enhancers!), chrome, aluminum (beware high pH here!), plastics, carbon fiber all have different needs.
• Identify the type of grime you typically battle. Commuter (road grime, bugs) vs. off-roader (mud) vs. cruiser (dust).
• Consider how frequently you plan to clean. Weekly (economical concentrates) vs. less often (more potent products).
• Assess your cleaning environment and resources. Water restrictions (waterless/low-rinse)? Eco-concerns (biodegradable)? Space/tools?
• Don’t just chase the shiniest label or highest price. Reputable brands for your needs. A few basics often beat a shelf of potions. Read reviews, but personal experience is king. Always test new, potent cleaners on an inconspicuous spot first.
• Build a basic starter kit. pH-balanced Motorcycle Wash, Chain Cleaner, Chain Lube, Microfiber Mitt/Towels, Quick Detailer, Wax/Sealant.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Motorcycle Cleaners

You’ve got questions, I’ve got answers. Here are some common things riders ask:

Can I use car wash soap on my motorcycle?

Generally, yes. A high-quality, pH-neutral car wash soap without harsh detergents or aggressive waxes is usually safe. However, dedicated motorcycle-specific washes are designed for the materials unique to bikes—like exposed engine components, sensitive plastics, and electronics. So while car soap works in a pinch, using a motorcycle wash is usually the safer, smarter choice.

How often should I clean my motorcycle?

That depends on how and where you ride. If you’re commuting daily or riding in wet, dirty conditions, aim for weekly or bi-weekly cleans. Weekend riders in fair weather can usually get away with monthly washes. The key is not letting corrosive grime—like bug guts, bird droppings, or road salt—sit too long. A quick post-ride detail can stretch the time between full washes.

What’s the best way to dry a motorcycle to avoid water spots?

A motorcycle-specific dryer or a clean-setting leaf blower is ideal. These push water out of tight spaces and dry surfaces quickly. If using towels, choose high-quality microfiber and pat or blot rather than wipe to avoid scratches. Washing in the shade also helps prevent water spots, and in hard water areas, a final rinse with deionized water is a game changer.

Do I really need a separate cleaner for my chain?

Yes, definitely. Motorcycle chains have O-, X-, or Z-rings that can be damaged by harsh degreasers or general-purpose cleaners. Using a dedicated chain cleaner ensures you safely remove old lube and grime without degrading the seals. This keeps your chain lasting longer and running smoother.

Is it okay to clean my motorcycle with WD-40 (standard multi-use product)?

Use caution. The WD-40 Specialist Degreaser is great for targeted cleaning of engine grime or swingarms. But the standard WD-40 Multi-Use formula is a water displacer and light lubricant—not a general cleaner. It can leave behind a sticky film, attract dust, and degrade some rubbers or plastics over time. It’s useful for freeing bolts or displacing moisture in electrics post-wash, but it shouldn’t be your main cleaner.

Wrapping up…

So, there you have it. Keeping your motorcycle clean is more than a chore; it’s part of the ownership experience, a way to connect with your machine and keep it performing and looking its best for years of happy miles. 

Pick the right products for your situation, follow a good process, and you’ll not only have a bike that looks incredible but one that’s better protected against the elements and easier to maintain. Now go make that machine shine!

The post Best Motorcycle Cleaner: Top Picks, Pro Tips & What to Avoid first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

Carbs are finicky, but keeping them clean isn’t complicated. Whether you’re dealing with varnished jets or just trying to stay ahead of ethanol sludge, the right combo of cleaner, additive, and filter goes a long way.

Quick Picks: Best Carb Cleaners

Best Carburetor Spray Cleaner	Berryman B-12 Chemtool Carburetor 4.5 The Berryman B-12 Chemtool has the strongest solvent base and broadest reach inside the fuel system, not just the carburetor. It's the best performer when you need results fast and don’t mind the harsher chemical profile.	Check Price on Amazon
Best Fuel Additive	Chevron Techron Protection Plus 4.6 This Techron formula is specifically engineered for motorcycles and small engines, not just compatible. It excels in cleaning carburetors and injectors, and prevents corrosion in fuel systems that often sit unused for weeks or months.	Check Price on Amazon
Best Inline Fuel Filter	K&N In-Line Fuel Filter 4.6 The K&N Inline Fuel Filter stands out for its durable, serviceable construction, high filtration efficiency, and broad compatibility with non-fuel-injected motorcycles.	Check Price on Revzilla

Best Carburetor Spray Cleaner

Berryman B-12 Chemtool Carburetor

4.5

The Berryman B-12 Chemtool has the strongest solvent base and broadest reach inside the fuel system, not just the carburetor. It's the best performer when you need results fast and don’t mind the harsher chemical profile.

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Best Fuel Additive

Chevron Techron Protection Plus

4.6

This Techron formula is specifically engineered for motorcycles and small engines, not just compatible. It excels in cleaning carburetors and injectors, and prevents corrosion in fuel systems that often sit unused for weeks or months.

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Best Inline Fuel Filter

K&N In-Line Fuel Filter

4.6

The K&N Inline Fuel Filter stands out for its durable, serviceable construction, high filtration efficiency, and broad compatibility with non-fuel-injected motorcycles. 

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Truths About Carb Cleaning

Before you start spraying or pouring anything into your fuel system, it’s worth clearing up a few common misunderstandings.

Additives clean everything. Not quite. Fuel additives help prevent gunk from forming in your carb, but they won’t clear a blocked jet or fix hard varnish already stuck inside. For that, you’ll need a proper carb spray and some hands-on time.

“If it runs, it’s clean” A dirty carb can still start. What you’ll feel is poor throttle response, stumbling under load, or a rough idle.

Never touch the mixture screws. On older bikes, a gentle tweak to your air/fuel screw post-cleaning can make all the difference. Just count your turns and work within the manual’s range.

Fuel filters are optional. Only if you enjoy cleaning out tank rust from your float valve at the side of the road. Inline filters are cheap insurance.

The Right Spray Gets You 80% There

When your throttle’s feeling sluggish, your idle’s hunting, or your bike just doesn’t have that crisp response off the line, there’s a strong chance your carburetor is gummed up. Old fuel, ethanol residue, and microscopic debris can build up fast, especially if your bike has been sitting for a while. 

The most effective way to restore performance is with a direct-application spray cleaner designed to cut through varnish and fuel deposits inside your carb. And if you’re also tackling frame, wheels, and plastics, don’t miss our picks for the best all-purpose motorcycle cleaners.

Berryman B-12 Chemtool Carburetor

Why it works:

Berryman’s B-12 Chemtool 0116 is a high-strength fuel system cleaner that uses 100% high-energy solvent technology (HEST) to dissolve gum in, varnish, and moisture throughout the fuel system, including injectors, carburetors, intake valves, and pistons.

It’s safe for catalytic converters and oxygen sensors, making it a solid choice for both older carbureted bikes and modern fuel-injected engines. It’s especially useful for reviving bikes that have sat with old gas or are running rough after winter storage.

What to keep in mind:

This isn’t a mild cleaner. It’s potent. Some users have reported false check engine lights after use, likely due to dislodged debris affecting sensors. It’s also not VOC-compliant in all U.S. states, so check local regulations before ordering.

Berryman B-12 Chemtool Carburetor

High-performance aerosol cleaner for carburetors, chokes, throttle bodies, and more.

Pros:

• Quickly removes carbon, gum, and varnish
• Improves engine performance and fuel economy
• Safe for use on multiple engine parts

Cons:

• Strong chemical odor during use

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Gumout Jet Spray Carb/Choke & Parts Cleaner

Why it works:

Gumout’s Jet Spray Carb/Choke & Parts Cleaner is a fast-acting aerosol designed to dissolve gum, varnish, and dirt from both the interior and exterior of carburetors and choke valves. Its high-pressure spray effectively cleans unpainted metal parts, helping to restore engine performance and fuel efficiency. The formula is quick-drying and safe for use on catalytic converters and oxygen sensors, making it suitable for a variety of engines, including motorcycles.

What to keep in mind:

While the cleaner is effective, it contains potent solvents that can be harsh on painted surfaces and plastics. It’s important to use it in a well-ventilated area and avoid prolonged skin contact. Additionally, the product is extremely flammable and should be kept away from heat sources and open flames

Gumout Jet Spray Carb/Choke & Parts Cleaner

Fast-acting spray that clears deposits for smoother engine performance.

Pros:

• Improves starting and reduces rough idling
• Removes gum, varnish, and dirt effectively
• Quick-drying and safe for unpainted metal parts

Cons:

• Cannot be shipped to all locations

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Pro Honda Carburetor Cleaner

Why it works:

Pro Honda’s Carburetor Cleaner is a non-chlorinated aerosol designed to remove gum, varnish, and carbon buildup from carburetors and throttle bodies. Its ultra-low VOC formula is safe for oxygen sensors and catalytic converters, making it suitable for both older and modern engines. The cleaner is legal in all 50 states, ensuring compliance with environmental regulations. 

What to keep in mind:

While effective, the cleaner is extremely flammable and should be used in well-ventilated areas away from heat sources.Avoid contact with painted surfaces and plastics, as the solvents may cause damage.

Pro Honda Carb Cleaner

Safe, low-VOC formula that cleans carburetors and emissions components effectively.

Pros:

• Legal in all 50 states with ultra-low VOC
• Safe for oxygen sensors
• Cleans throttle, choke linkages, and intake components

Cons:

• Limited to a 12 oz. can size only

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How to Use a Carburetor Cleaner 

Let’s be clear, there’s no miracle spray that fixes everything. But used right, carb cleaner can save you a teardown.

Quick clean (no disassembly):

1. Warm the engine to soften deposits.
2. Remove the air filter to access the intake throat.
3. Spray directly into the intake while the bike idles or just after shutoff.
4. Let it soak for a few minutes. Restart and give the throttle a few blips.

Full clean (carb removed):

1. Drain the float bowl and disassemble.
2. Spray into every passage, jet, and orifice.
3. Use compressed air to flush.
4. Reassemble with care, and don’t forget fresh gaskets if needed.

Fuel Additives: Clean While You Ride

You’ve cleared the carb. Now it’s all about prevention. Keeping your fuel system clean isn’t just a one-time fix, it’s something you need to stay ahead of, especially if your bike spends stretches of time in the garage. That’s where fuel additives come in. They help dissolve micro deposits, combat ethanol buildup, and stabilize your gas, particularly useful during off-season storage or long idle periods.

Sea Foam SF-16

Why it works:

Sea Foam SF-16 is a versatile, petroleum-based additive designed to clean and lubricate critical engine components. It effectively removes carbon deposits, gum, and varnish from fuel injectors, carburetors, and intake valves. Additionally, it stabilizes fuel for up to two years, making it suitable for both regular use and long-term storage. 

What to keep in mind:

While Sea Foam is safe for all gasoline and diesel engines, overuse may lead to excessive smoke during combustion. It’s essential to follow the recommended dosage to avoid potential issues.

Sea Foam SF-16

Versatile fuel and oil additive that cleans, lubricates, and stabilizes engines.

Pros:

• Cleans injectors, carburetors, intake valves, and deposits
• Lubricates upper engine cylinders and internal parts
• Stabilizes fuel for up to 2 years

Cons:

• May require repeated use for heavily gummed engines

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Liqui Moly Motorbike Speed Additive Shooter

Why it works:

Liqui Moly’s Speed Additive Shooter is formulated to enhance acceleration and engine responsiveness. Its ash-free composition cleans the fuel system, reduces knocking, and ensures smoother engine operation, particularly beneficial for motorcycles and small engines.

What to keep in mind:

This additive is specifically designed for 2-stroke and 4-stroke gasoline engines. It’s recommended to use it with each refueling for optimal performance.

Liqui Moly Motorbike Speed Additive Shooter 80ML

Liqui Moly Motorbike Speed Additive Shooter boosts acceleration, cleans the fuel system, and protects your engine for smoother, more responsive performance.

Pros:

• Improves throttle response and engine smoothness
• Removes deposits from the entire fuel system
• Provides good corrosion protectio

Cons:

• May be fatal if swallowed and enters airways

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Chevron Techron Protection Plus Powersports & Small Engine

Why it works:

Chevron’s Techron Protection Plus is tailored for powersports and small engines, offering superior cleaning of fuel injectors, carburetors, and combustion chambers. It also stabilizes fuel for up to 24 months and provides robust corrosion protection, ensuring reliable engine performance.

What to keep in mind:

While highly effective, this additive is best suited for engines that experience infrequent use or are stored for extended periods. Regular use in daily-driven vehicles may not yield significant benefits.

Chevron Techron Protection Plus Powersports & Small Engine

Cleans and protects fuel systems while stabilizing fuel for up to 2 years.

Pros:

• Cleans and prevents carbon, gum, and varnish buildup
• Provides excellent corrosion and rust protection
• Stabilizes fuel for long-term storage

Cons:

• Not effective in treating existing water contamination

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Chevron Techron High Mileage Fuel System Cleaner

Why it works:

Techron High Mileage is engineered for vehicles with over 75,000 miles, targeting and cleaning stubborn deposits in the fuel system. It restores lost power, improves fuel economy, and stabilizes fuel for up to 24 months, making it ideal for aging engines.

What to keep in mind:

This product is specifically formulated for gasoline engines and is not suitable for diesel engines. It’s recommended to use it every 1,000 miles or as needed for optimal results

Chevron Techron High Mileage Fuel System Cleaner

Chevron Techron High Mileage Fuel System Cleaner restores engine performance and protects fuel system components in older vehicles.

Pros:

• Improves power and fuel efficiency
• Removes gum, varnish, and deposits
• Protects metal parts from corrosion

Cons:

• Higher price compared to some competitors

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Fuel Filters: Block the Junk Before It Starts

Everything you just cleaned? A rusty tank or bad gas can wreck it again in one fill-up. Inline filters are the cheapest, smartest way to protect your carb.

Helix In-Line Transparent Fuel Filter

Why it works:

The Helix In-Line Transparent Fuel Filter features a clear housing that allows for easy visual inspection of fuel flow and contaminants. Its pleated paper filter element effectively captures debris, helping to maintain fuel system cleanliness. This universal filter is compatible with various motorcycle models and is designed for straightforward installation

What to keep in mind:

While the transparent design aids in monitoring, the plastic housing may not be as durable as metal alternatives. Regular checks are recommended to ensure integrity, especially in high-vibration environments.

Helix In-Line Transparent Fuel Filter

Helix In-Line Transparent Fuel Filter offers easy fuel flow monitoring with reliable filtration in a clear, durable design.

Pros:

• Transparent design allows quick visual fuel inspection
• Pleated filter paper efficiently traps contaminants
• Simple installation and maintenance

Cons:

• Plastic housing may be less durable than metal filters

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Milwaukee Twins Fuel Filter Kit

Why it works:

The Milwaukee Twins Fuel Filter Kit is engineered to meet or exceed OEM specifications, ensuring reliable performance for Harley-Davidson motorcycles. It serves as a direct replacement for OEM part 61011-04A, facilitating seamless integration without modifications. The kit includes all necessary components for installation, making it a convenient option for maintaining fuel system efficiency.

What to keep in mind:

This filter kit is specifically designed for certain Harley-Davidson models. Compatibility should be verified before purchase to ensure proper fitment.

Milwaukee Twins Fuel Filter Kit

Milwaukee Twins Fuel Filter Kit is a direct replacement designed to keep Harley Touring and Softail models (2001-2007) running smoothly.

Pros:

• Meets or exceeds original equipment standards
• Designed specifically for Harley Touring and Softail 2001-2007 models
• Easy to install with OEM compatibility

Cons:

• Only compatible with select Harley models from 2001-2007

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K&N Inline Fuel Filter

Why it works:

K&N’s Inline Fuel Filter boasts a durable construction with a clear glass body and chrome end caps, allowing for quick visual assessments of fuel cleanliness. The replaceable inner filter element enhances longevity and cost-effectiveness. Suitable for non-fuel-injected applications, this filter is designed for easy installation without special tools.

What to keep in mind:

This filter is intended for use with 5/16″ and 3/8″ fuel lines. It’s important to ensure compatibility with your motorcycle’s fuel system before installation.

K&N In-Line Fuel Filter

K&N In-Line Fuel Filter offers high flow and reliable filtration with durable stainless or bronze mesh for 1/4" fuel lines.

Pros:

• High volume, low pressure design for optimal fuel flow
• Durable stainless or bronze mesh filter elements
• Easy to install and fits standard 1/4" fuel lines

Cons:

• Only fits 1/4" fuel lines, not compatible with larger sizes

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Product Comparison Table

Buying Guide: What to Look for in a Carb Cleaner

Cleaning a carb isn’t complicated, but picking the right cleaner can save you time, frustration, and a second teardown. Here’s what actually matters:

Spray vs. Additive

Sprays are for fixing. Additives are for prevention. If your bike is bogging, stumbling, or idling rough, you need a spray cleaner that can break down varnish and free stuck jets. Additives help keep things clean over time, but they won’t clear out hardened deposits once they’ve set in.

Solvent Strength and Surface Safety

Stronger cleaners cut through gunk faster but can also be tough on rubber, plastic, or sensors. Match the strength to the job. If you’re working near painted surfaces or soft parts, go with something less aggressive to avoid damage.

Ethanol Problems Start Quiet

Modern fuel can cause big problems, especially if your bike sits for weeks. Ethanol attracts moisture, causes corrosion, and leaves behind sludge. Keeping your fuel fresh and stabilized goes a long way toward preventing clogs and poor performance.

Fuel Filters Are Not Optional

A clean carb doesn’t stay clean without a filter. Rust, tank flakes, and bad gas can clog jets in a single ride. A good inline fuel filter helps catch the junk before it hits your carb. Check or replace it every oil change.

Know What’s Legal

Some cleaners aren’t allowed in every state due to VOC rules. If you live in a state with stricter laws, double-check that your spray is compliant before ordering.

Carb maintenance is part of the deal if you’re riding old-school. A little effort up front keeps things running right and helps avoid roadside fixes later.

Motorcycle Carb Cleaner FAQ

Is carb cleaner worth it?

Absolutely. A good carb cleaner can restore performance, smooth out idle issues, and prevent bigger problems down the line. If your bike is hesitating, surging, or idling rough, a $5 can of spray can often solve the issue without cracking open the whole carb.

What is the best way to clean motorcycle carburetors?

The most effective way is to remove the carburetor, disassemble it, and use a spray cleaner to flush out jets, float bowls, and passages. Follow that with compressed air to make sure everything’s clear. For routine maintenance, spraying into the intake while the engine runs warm can help keep things clean between full services.

Where do I spray carb cleaner?

For light cleaning, spray into the intake throat (where air enters the carb) with the engine idling or immediately after shutdown. For deep cleaning, spray directly into jets, passages, and bowls with the carb removed. Always follow up with compressed air if possible.

Can you spray carb cleaner directly into carb?

Yes, and that’s often how it’s used. When sprayed into the carb’s air intake while the engine is running, it can clean light deposits. For internal buildup, you’ll need to remove the carb and spray directly into jets and channels.

Can I use fuel injector cleaner on a carburetor motorcycle?

Most fuel injector cleaners are safe for carbureted engines when added to the fuel tank, but they aren’t ideal for direct cleaning. If you’re using an additive, go with one labeled for both systems.

What are the side effects of carburetor cleaner?

Carb cleaner is powerful stuff. It can damage painted surfaces, plastics, and rubber if left to sit. It’s also flammable and harsh on skin and lungs. Always use it in a well-ventilated area, wear gloves, and avoid contact with wiring or sensors unless the product is labeled safe for them.

Wrapping up…

Carbs might not be modern, but they’re not a mystery either. Respect the basics: clean fuel, clear jets, protected internals. Use a real carb spray when things go sideways. Use a fuel additive to keep them from getting there. And never skip the filter.

Keep your old bike running like it just rolled off the showroom floor. That’s how you ride with soul.

The post Best Carb Cleaner for Motorcycles: Maintenance Guide first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

It might not be the fun part of riding, but if you ignore it, your bike’s gonna let you know. I remember one buddy who thought spraying WD-40 was enough. Couple months later, his chain looked like it had been soaking in a swamp.

This guide keeps it straight. We are talking about chain cleaners that melt the grime without wrecking your O-rings, and lubes that stay where they should instead of flinging all over your fresh paint.

Top Picks: Best Chain Lube 

Most riders just want to know what works without getting a chemistry degree. Here are my top picks:

Best Overall Lube	Best Chain Wax	Best Chain Cleaner
Motul C4 "Factory Line" Racing Chain Lube	Maxima Chain Wax	Motul C1 Chain Clean
4.7	4.6	4.5
Excellent penetration, great adhesion (low fling), durable.	Minimal fling, clean look, protects well, classic choice.	Cuts grime fast, safe for O-rings, easy to use aerosol.
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Best Overall Lube

Motul C4 "Factory Line" Racing Chain Lube

4.7

Excellent penetration, great adhesion (low fling), durable.

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Best Chain Wax

Maxima Chain Wax

4.6

Minimal fling, clean look, protects well, classic choice.

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Best Chain Cleaner

Motul C1 Chain Clean

4.5

Cuts grime fast, safe for O-rings, easy to use aerosol.

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Now, if you want the deeper dive into why these are great and explore other solid options, plus learn the right way to actually do the job, stick around.

Why Chain Maintenance Isn’t Optional

Seriously, why bother with this messy chore?

1. Chain & Sprocket Life: A clean, properly lubricated chain runs smoother, reduces friction, and drastically extends the life of both your chain and sprockets. Replacing those ain’t cheap!
2. Performance: A dry, gritty chain creates drag and can cause jerky power delivery. A well-lubed chain means smoother acceleration and operation.
3. Safety: A neglected chain can stretch unevenly, kink, or even break – which can be incredibly dangerous if it happens at speed.
4. Rust Prevention: Lube protects the metal components from corrosion, especially if you ride in wet conditions.

Think of it like changing your oil, it’s essential preventative maintenance.

Cleaning Your Chain: Getting Rid of the Gunk

Before you lube, you gotta clean! Spraying fresh lube onto a chain caked in old lube, dirt, and road grime just creates a grinding paste that accelerates wear. You need a dedicated chain cleaner that’s effective but safe for O-ring, X-ring, and Z-ring chains (which most modern street bikes have). Harsh solvents can damage the rubber seals, letting internal grease escape and ruining the chain.

Motul C1 Chain Clean

Motul C1 is a go-to chain cleaner for a lot of riders, and honestly, it has earned that spot. Comes in an aerosol can, sprays easy, and actually cuts through the grime without leaving a greasy mess behind. You just spin the rear wheel by hand (bike off, no dumb moves with the engine running), lay it on thick, let it soak for a minute, then hit it with a chain brush like a Grunge Brush. Wipe it down with a couple of rags and you are good to go. It dries quick, doesn’t jack up your O-rings, and leaves the chain ready for fresh lube without any extra drama.

Now, not to mix things up, some guys have gripes with Motul’s lube flinging everywhere, but as a cleaner, the C1 holds up solid. If you are chasing clean without wrecking your chain, this one’s a safe bet.

The Catch? It’s an aerosol, so overspray is possible (use cardboard behind the chain). You’ll go through a can relatively quickly if your chain is really filthy.

Silver Lining: Extremely effective at dissolving old lube and grime quickly, O-ring safe, readily available, and easy to use. Makes a dirty job much faster.

Alternative Option: Maxima Clean Up Chain Cleaner is another popular, effective, O-ring safe aerosol cleaner. Some riders also use kerosene on a rag (though it’s messier and less convenient). Avoid harsh solvents like brake cleaner or gasoline!

Motul C1 Chain Clean

Powerful aerosol chain cleaner that removes grime and grease quickly and safely.

Pros:

• Effective on all chain types including O-ring and X-ring
• Fast-evaporating formula leaves no residue
• Chlorine-free and safe for frequent use

Cons:

• Only available in a single size option

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Our Review: Motul C1 makes the dirty part quick and easy, and it’s safe for your expensive chain.

Lubing Your Chain

Once clean and dry, it’s time for lube. The goal is to lubricate the rollers and pins, protect against corrosion, and have it stay on the chain instead of decorating your rear wheel, swingarm, and pant leg. Different types have different characteristics:

Motul C4 Chain Lube “Factory Line” 

Motul Chain Lube Road is one of the best all-around options for street bikes. It sprays on wet with a slightly milky look, stays a bit tacky, and eventually settles into a waxy coating that reminds me of old-school paraffin jobs from mountain biking. 

It lays down a solid protective layer without turning your chain into a dirt magnet. After a few hundred miles, mine stayed clean, spun easy by hand, and made almost no noise, which tells you it is doing the job right. 

The spray goes on smooth (you can actually see it because it goes on white), penetrates well into the rollers and pins, and once it sets up, it holds tight at speed without flinging everywhere. It is safe for O-ring, X-ring, and Z-ring chains, and if you care about keeping your chain (and your bike) in top shape, this stuff is a solid bet.

The Catch? Because it’s tacky, it can attract a bit more dirt than a dry lube or wax, especially if over-applied. Wiping off excess thoroughly after application is key. Premium price point.

Silver Lining: Offers an excellent balance of deep penetration, outstanding anti-fling properties, long-lasting lubrication, and O-ring safety. A proven performer for street and sport riders.

Alternative Option: Motorex Chain Lube is another high-quality synthetic lube from a reputable brand known for good adhesion.

Motul C4 "Factory Line" Racing Chain Lube

Premium tacky chain lube designed for high-speed, track, and endurance racing performance.

Pros:

• Strong adhesion with no sling even at high speeds
• Suitable for all chain types including O-ring, X-ring, and Z-ring
• Ideal for racing and high-performance machines

Cons:

• Not recommended for off-road use due to sticky formula

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Our Review: Less fling, more protection. Motul C4 Factory Line is a top-tier choice for keeping your chain happy and your bike cleaner on the street.

Maxima Chain Wax 

If keeping your rear wheel clean is high on your list, Maxima Chain Wax is one of those old-school picks that still slaps. 

It is a paraffin-based formula that sprays on nice and thin to soak into the chain, then dries into a waxy film that is dry to the touch. No sticky mess, no chain gunk slinging all over your fresh paint. You gotta let it set up right, but once it does, fling is basically a non-issue. 

It still gives you solid lubrication and keeps rust at bay, and it is safe for all the sealed chains out there: O-ring, X-ring, Z-ring, whatever you are running. If you are the type that likes your bike looking sharp without a ton of extra cleanup, this stuff is a safe bet.

The Catch? The wax film might not last quite as long as some heavy-duty synthetic lubes, potentially requiring more frequent application, especially in wet conditions. Some argue wax doesn’t penetrate quite as deeply into the pins/rollers initially compared to thinner synthetic lubes (though modern formulas are very good). Needs adequate time to set before riding.

Silver Lining: Offers superior cleanliness and virtually zero fling-off, keeping your bike much cleaner. Provides good lubrication and corrosion protection. Easy to apply.

Alternative Option: PJ1 Blue Label Chain Lube (review below) is another popular option known for its anti-fling properties, often considered a hybrid between a wax and a standard lube.

Maxima Chain Wax

High-performance chain lube with Parafilm technology that protects from rust and reduces fling.

Pros:

• Sets as a waxy film for lasting protection
• Resists fling and doesn't attract dirt
• Safe for X, Z, and O-ring chains

Cons:

• Requires thorough cleaning before reapplication to prevent buildup

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Our Review: Maxima Chain Wax delivers excellent protection with minimal mess, perfect for keeping your wheels spotless.

Motorex Chain Lube 622 Strong 

Motorex is another premium European brand trusted by many riders and race teams. Their Chain Lube 622 Strong (specifically the “Road” version) is a high-quality synthetic lube designed for excellent adhesion and longevity on street bikes.

Similar in concept to the Motul C4, the Motorex 622 aims for that sweet spot of good penetration when applied, followed by excellent tackiness to resist fling-off. It sprays on white for easy application visibility and is formulated to be safe for O, X, and Z-ring chains.

Riders often praise its durability, claiming it lasts well between applications even in demanding conditions or during touring. It provides strong lubrication and corrosion protection.

The Catch? Like other tacky synthetic lubes, it can attract dirt if over-applied or if excess isn’t wiped off. Premium Swiss brand often comes with a premium price tag. Availability might be slightly less widespread than Motul or Maxima in some areas.

Silver Lining: Offers excellent durability, strong anti-fling characteristics, and reliable lubrication from a high-quality European brand. A great alternative premium synthetic lube.

Alternative Option: Bel-Ray Super Clean Chain Lube is another competitor often praised for adhesion and protection in the synthetic category.

Motorex Chain Clean

A powerful degreaser designed to break down heavy buildup for better chain performance and longevity.

Pros:

• Strong cleaning action removes tough grime
• Safe for X and O-ring chains
• 50-state legal and VOC compliant

Cons:

• Must be followed up with separate chain lube for protection

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Our Review: Motorex 622 Strong provides durable lubrication and great adhesion for demanding street use.

PJ1 Black Label Heavy Duty Chain Lube

PJ1 has been a staple in motorcycle maintenance for decades, and their Black Label lube is a popular heavy-duty option known for its tenacious sticking power.

The main selling point of PJ1 Black Label is its resistance to fling-off. It’s formulated to be extremely tacky and create a durable lubricating film that stays put, even under high speeds and stress. It aims to provide long-lasting lubrication and excellent protection against water and corrosion, making it suitable for various riding conditions. It is safe for O-ring chains. Many riders trust PJ1 for its proven track record over the years.

The Catch? Being extremely tacky, it’s known to attract dirt and grime quite readily, potentially requiring more frequent cleaning even if the lube itself lasts. Can be messy if over-applied. Might feel slightly “draggy” initially compared to lighter lubes.

Silver Lining: Offers exceptional adhesion and anti-fling properties, providing long-lasting lubrication and protection, especially valued by riders who prioritize staying power over ultimate cleanliness.

Alternative Option: If the tackiness and dirt attraction are concerns, Maxima Chain Wax or DuPont Chain Saver offer cleaner alternatives, though potentially requiring more frequent application.

PJ1 Blue Label Chain Lube

Engineered specifically for O-ring chains, PJ1 Blue Label delivers solid lubrication with minimal mess.

Pros:

• Extends O-ring chain life
• Helps keep O-rings moist and flexible
• Minimal fling-off

Cons:

• Not formulated for X or Z-ring chains

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Our Review: Sticks like glue. PJ1 Black Label is known for staying put, offering durable lubrication for riders who don’t mind cleaning a bit more often.

Motorcycle Chain Care Comparison

Note: Dirt Attraction, Anti-Fling, and Longevity are relative comparisons. Price ranges are approximate.

How-To Guide: Cleaning & Lubing Your Motorcycle Chain

Okay, let’s get our hands dirty (but hopefully not too dirty). Doing this right makes a huge difference.

What You’ll Need:

• Chain Cleaner (O-ring safe, like Motul C1)
• Chain Lube (Your chosen type: Motul C4, Maxima Wax, etc.)
• Chain Brush (Grunge Brush or similar 3-sided style recommended)
• Plenty of Clean Rags (Microfiber or shop towels)
• Cardboard or Newspaper (To protect your wheel/tire from overspray)
• Gloves & Eye Protection (Safety first!)
• Rear Stand (Highly recommended for easy wheel spinning) OR Patience (rolling the bike)

The Steps (Engine OFF! Bike Secure!)

1. Prep & Safety: Put the bike on a rear stand if you have one. This lets you spin the rear wheel freely. If not, you’ll need to clean/lube a section, roll the bike forward, repeat – takes longer but doable. Put on your gloves and eye protection. Place cardboard behind the chain run (between chain and wheel/tire) to catch overspray.
2. Apply Cleaner: Rotate the rear wheel slowly by hand. Spray the chain cleaner liberally onto the inside and outside of the chain rollers and side plates. Get it nice and wet. Let it sit for a minute or two to penetrate the grime.
3. Scrub: Grab your chain brush. Rotate the wheel slowly by hand again and scrub all four sides of the chain thoroughly. The brush bristles get into the rollers and between the plates to loosen stubborn dirt and old lube. Don’t use a stiff wire brush, it can damage O-rings!
4. Wipe Clean: Take a clean rag and rotate the wheel slowly by hand, wiping off all the dissolved gunk and cleaner residue. Keep wiping with clean sections of the rag (or new rags) until the chain looks clean and the rag comes away relatively clean.
5. Dry (Optional but Recommended): Let the chain air dry for 5-10 minutes, or gently wipe it with a completely dry, clean rag to remove any remaining cleaner moisture before applying lube.
6. Apply Lube: This is key! Rotate the rear wheel slowly by hand again. Aim the lube nozzle at the inside run of the chain, specifically targeting the rollers and the inner side plates where the chain contacts the sprockets. Apply a thin, even coat along the entire length of the chain (usually 2-3 full rotations). Applying to the inside allows centrifugal force to distribute the lube outwards when riding. DO NOT over-apply! More is NOT better here – excess lube just attracts dirt and flings off.
7. Wipe Excess Lube: After applying, let the lube sit and penetrate for a few minutes (check lube instructions, waxes might need longer to set). Then, take a clean rag and gently wipe off any excess lube from the outside of the chain plates and rollers. You want the lube inside the chain, not coating the outside where it just picks up dirt.
8. Let It Set: Allow the lube to fully set before riding, especially for waxes or tacky lubes. Waiting 15-30 minutes (or even overnight if possible) helps minimize fling-off on your first ride after lubing.
9. Clean Up: Dispose of dirty rags properly. Admire your clean, lubed chain!

How Often?

• Cleaning: Every 500-1000 miles, or sooner if riding in very dirty/wet conditions. If your chain looks visibly dirty or gritty, clean it.
• Lubing: Every 300-600 miles is a good starting point for street riding. Check your owner’s manual for recommendations. Lube more often if you ride in the rain, off-road, or notice the chain looking dry or sounding noisy. A quick inspection before each ride is smart.

FAQs: Chain Maintenance Questions

• How often should I lube my motorcycle chain? General guideline is every 300-600 miles for street riding, but more often if you ride in rain, dirt, or notice the chain is dry/noisy. Check your owner’s manual. Consistency is key.
• Is WD-40 okay for motorcycle chains? NO! WD-40 is primarily a water displacer and solvent, not a proper lubricant for the high pressures and friction in a motorcycle chain. It can actually wash away existing grease inside sealed chains and damage O-rings. Use a dedicated motorcycle chain lube.
• What’s the difference between chain wax and chain lube?
  • Chain Lube (Standard/Synthetic): Typically sprays on thin, penetrates, then thickens to a wet or tacky film. Offers excellent penetration and longevity but can attract more dirt and fling off if over-applied. (e.g., Motul C4, Motorex 622).
  • Chain Wax: Sprays on thin, carrier evaporates leaving a dry, waxy film. Attracts much less dirt and has minimal fling, keeping the bike cleaner. May require more frequent application, especially in wet weather. (e.g., Maxima Chain Wax).
  • Dry Lube (Teflon): Dries to a very thin, dry film. Attracts almost no dirt but may offer less corrosion protection and require frequent reapplication. (e.g., DuPont Chain Saver).
• Do shaft drive or belt drive bikes need chain lube? Nope! One of the main advantages of shaft drive and belt drive systems is their significantly lower maintenance compared to chains. Shaft drives require periodic gear oil changes in the final drive unit. Belt drives generally just require inspection for tension and wear. No messy lubing needed!

Taking care of your chain might seem like a hassle, but doing it regularly with the right products keeps your bike running smoother, makes your expensive drivetrain components last way longer, and ultimately makes your ride safer. 

Pick the cleaner and lube type that best suits your riding conditions and tolerance for mess, follow the steps, and enjoy the results!

Ride safe!

The post Best Motorcycle Chain Lubes (2025 Rider’s Guide) first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

I’m not proud of it! But I was worried about damaging them and honestly I didn’t want to spend a relaxing Saturday afternoon covered in bug grime scrubbing away at each panel.

It took one of my riding buddies slapping some sense into me (he couldn’t eat because I smelled so bad…) to finally face the dreaded wash. 

I did the research and discovered washing a jacket just ain’t that hard. I took the right steps and tossed it in the washing machine. Promptly wore it on a ride in the wet and slid out – survived without a scratch to tell the tale.

So I did some more research, and started regularly washing my leather jacket. A few mistakes and more jackets later, and here we are. 

Here’s all my wisdom and tips on how to clean your jacket without damaging or discoloring it.

Washing Different Types of Motorcycle Jackets

Not all motorcycle jackets are made equal, so not all can be washed the same way. The three main types of jackets are waxed cotton (for my hipster friends), textile (including polyester, nylon, mesh, etc) and the tried-and-true leather. 

Waxed Cotton – The Stubborn One

Unfortunately, waxed cotton jackets are a bit tricky to clean. They’re like that one friend who refuses to budge on their questionable opinions.

Use a wet cloth to clean them, but be prepared for some stubbornness. You can’t effectively clean every little bit, but hey, that’s the price of looking effortlessly cool, right?

Embrace the patina.

Textile – The Machine Washers

Where Waxed Cotton can never let go, Textile jackets go with the flow – in your washing machine. 

You’ll need to check the label (which I’ll go in to later) but typically a Textile jacket can be tossed in a washing machine. You might need to soak or brush a couple spots, but otherwise they’re fairly low maintenance. 

Leather – The Picky Prince

Leather is beautiful and tough, but it takes care to keep it up. Treat it like royalty, and it’ll keep you safe and stylish for years to come.

Use a damp cloth to wipe down the surface often. Apply a good-quality leather cleaner and conditioner every few months. Your jacket will be forever grateful, and so will your fellow bikers who won’t have to smell you from a mile away.

Why even bother washing a jacket? 

If you found yourself here, you probably have your reasons. 

If you still need convincing, consider this: 

Washing a jacket isn’t just about keeping you smelling fresh as a daisy (or at least, fresher than a week-old roadkill), it also helps maintain your gear. For leather jackets, cleaning off salt residue is a must, lest you want your precious investment to deteriorate faster than you can say “easy rider.”

And here’s a fun fact: residue on your jacket’s membrane can clog up ventilation and hold water during rain. We all know that feeling cold and tired on a ride is a recipe for disaster. Remember, crashes are often a combination of small mistakes. Let’s not add “riding in a soggy jacket” to that list, shall we?

So washing your jacket is a safety and comfort issue, and it extends the lifespan of your gear. So instead of sweating about how to wash that $1,000 Schott jacket, why don’t you learn how to maintain it so you can pass it down to your kid? 

So with that said, let’s get into cleaning. 

Preventative Cleaning for Motorcycle Jackets

The secret sauce to a happy jacket (without breaking a sweat) starts with preventative cleaning. 

That’s it. Buy a box of wet wipes to keep in the garage and spend two minutes after you turn off the bike to check your gear. 

DONE! On to the deep cleaning…

Washing a Textile Motorcycle Jacket: A Step-by-Step Guide

Ready to tackle that dirty textile motorcycle jacket? Hold onto your helmets because I’m about to take you on a wild ride through the world of textile jacket cleaning.

Read the tag! Knowledge is power.

First things first: Check the tag for any instructions.

Your 10 Commandments for washing any jacket are always found on the label. But, sometimes your label sweated away (like mine) or you want a bit more guidance than three hieroglyphics can give. 

Most textile jackets, in my experience, are machine washable. 

Look for the symbol that looks like a tub with water in it – that’s your machine wash symbol. If that symbol has an X over it, don’t use the machine! You may also see a number on that tub. If it’s suspiciously low it’s probably CELSIUS not Fahrenheit! So do your conversions. 

You’ll also probably see a triangle with an X over it: that means no bleach. 

Also check:

• If the label mentions any specific chemicals you can’t use, like detergents. 
• If your jacket has any leather or suede components (you’ll need to remove these before machine washing, or just hand wash the whole thing)

I’ll say it again: AVOID BLEACH!

Tools: What You’ll Need

To get that textile jacket squeaky clean, you’ll need a special tech wash or plain old laundry detergent. If you’re hand washing, you’ll want at least a big brush and a toothbrush, all soft bristles (no metal, please!)

The internet is awash with theories about detergent: some think it melts your jacket into a puddle, others swear by it. The problem with detergents is some will damage glues, tapes, and waterproofing inside a jacket. 

Personally, I use regular non-bleach laundry detergent on my cheaper jackets and splurge for products like NikWax non-detergent soap and reproofing solution for more expensive ones. It’s not the cheapest wash, but it’s a lot cheaper than buying a new Klim Badlands jacket. 

I just don’t want to take the risk of a detergent damaging an expensive jacket. So AVOID detergents if you really don’t want to screw up! There are lots of products like NikWax’s made for washing technical outdoor gear. These are well suited for motorcycle jackets. 

A few friends of mine in the UK have tried the Storm wash and re-proof as well and love it. 

Wash: Time to scrub-a-dub-dub

Before you get wet (or let the machine do all the work), make sure you’ve done the following: 

1. Emptied every pocket of every scrap (a little tissue can make a BIG mess)
2. Removed all armor from elbows, shoulders, back and chest
3. Unzipped every zipper: vents and vented panels included. Let it all hang loose. 
4. Separate out all liners (some, like plastic waterproofing liners, you won’t want to machine wash)

Some people swear by flipping the jacket inside out. I only do it if I’m primarily cleaning sweat from the inside, and not grime on the outside. 

The Easy Way: Machine Washing 

Assuming your jacket can handle it, you’ll need a few rounds in the washing machine. 

1. [If you’re not using detergent] Pre-wash: Before the jacket even goes in, put some rags in the machine and run it on the hottest cycle without detergent to clean out any traces of detergent that could damage your jacket. 
2. Wash your Jacket: Pop your jacket in along with a non-bleach detergent or the NikWax wash I mentioned earlier. Follow the directions for adding your cleaning product to your machine. Don’t use any fabric softener. Use the Delicate cycle or a wash cycle with temps around 90 degrees F (30 C). 
3. Second Proof or Rinse Cycle: Run your jacket through a second time on the same settings, but with your NikWax proof or nothing at all. The NikWax proof will lock in a new layer of waterproofing, while straight water will just flush out any detergent still hiding in your jacket. Detergent left in your jacket can be just as damaging as dirt!

The Hard Way: By Hand

Okay, you’re a masochist? Or your jacket is a diva? Here’s how to hand wash a textile jacket. 

Grab two buckets: Fill one with water and your detergent or wash solution, and leave the other as a rinse bucket. 

Repeatedly dunk your jacket in the soapy water and brush it until it starts to glisten again. Go easy at first to remove the grime and bugs on the surface. If you go too hard right off the bat, you’ll just push all of that deeper into the material of the jacket. As you lift off that grime, you can get more aggressive. 

Remember: Dunk and brush, dunk and brush, dunk and brush… you get the idea? 

Grab a beer, you’re going to be here a while. 

Once your jacket is looking new and your water old, it’s time to rinse. Dunk and squeeze through the rinse water. When your rinse water turns dark or soapy, dump it out and fill it again. You’ll want to rinse until nothing more is coming out of your jacket. 

Congratulations, you’re done! If you’re like me, that only took one six-pack to do… 

Time to stumble in the closet to grab a hanger… it’s drying time. 

Dry: Hang it up and let it chill

Grab a sturdy hanger and hang up your jacket, preferably outside where it’ll get some airflow and a bit of sunlight. If you’re doing this in the dead of winter, hang it in your shower or mudroom and point a fan at it. 

When it’s damp, you can use a machine dryer for 15-20 minutes on a cool air setting. This can help reactivate the DWR (durable water repellent) coating on the jacket’s exterior.

If you didn’t use a proofing solution in the wash, consider using a re-waterproofing spray like this one from Nikwax.

Cleaning a Leather Motorcycle Jacket: A Step-by-Step Guide

Alright, fellow leather enthusiasts! Gather ’round as I spill the beans on how to treat your trusty leather motorcycle jacket like royalty. Let’s dive into the process of making it look as good as new and smell like, well, not last week’s ride!

Tools: Your Dream Team

Here’s the lowdown on what you’ll need to get started:

1. Clean cloths (3-4 of them) – your jacket deserves only the softest touch.
2. Leather conditioner (Anthony’s Leatherworks in the US is the crème de la crème)
3. De-salter (Anthony’s got you covered, too)
4. Febreze or another deodorizer

Beware of cleaners with a hidden agenda! Avoid silicones, waxes, or animal products that’ll cause your jacket to look like a sad tie-dye experiment.

Or take out the guesswork and pick up this kit from Anthony’s Leatherworks on Amazon. Just click and fuhgettaboutit.

Click the button above to FUHGETTABOUTIT and keep your leather jacket in tip-top shape. 

Clean the Inside: From Funky Town to Freshville

Arm yourself with Febreze and launch an all-out assault on the stubborn odors lurking inside your jacket. 

Spray first, ask for forgiveness later. Follow up with a gentle swipe from a cloth dampened with warm water – your secret weapon.

If the smell refuses to surrender, it’s time to bring out the big guns: a de-salter spray that’ll pulverize the odor and any mold trying to crash your leather party.

Clean the Outside: Massage Time at Leather Spa

Put a hearty dollop of leather cleaner & conditioner on a soft cloth and give your jacket the massage it’s been dreaming of since you took it through a downpour. 

When that cloth is looking war torn, let it take a refreshing dip in warm, soapy water for a well-deserved vacation. Move that road grime from the jacket to a bucket of water. 

Once your jacket has been thoroughly pampered, let it relax on a hanger until it’s no longer looking wet from the cleaner. 

Condition the Leather: The Grand Finale

You’ve cleaned, but you haven’t moisturized – this is a recipe for disaster for your diva jacket. So prepare a cloth soaked in leather conditioner, put your reading glasses on, and cover every last inch of your jacket. Leave no stitch or fold unturned!

At the end of this rejuvenating journey, your leather buddy will beam with pride (if jackets could beam), flex with strength, and brim with the courage to face many more thrilling adventures on the road.

Storing a Motorcycle Jacket

Oh you thought we were done?

Half the battle of washing is storing your jacket. If you throw it out in the shed all winter, you think that jacket will have much sympathy for you the next time you take a tumble? 

No!

So keep your jackets somewhere cool and dry, away from sunlight. Remember to let it dry out after every ride. Along with regular wet-wiping, you shouldn’t have to deep clean your jacket more than once or twice a year. 

That’s all folks – until next time!

FAQs

Is it okay to wash a motorcycle jacket in a washing machine?

It depends on the jacket’s material and care instructions. Check the tag for specific guidelines. Textile jackets might be machine-washable, but leather jackets should never be washed in a machine.

How often should I wash a motorcycle jacket?

If you ride in dirt or commute in areas with heavy emissions, wash your jacket more frequently. Otherwise, clean it as needed based on the accumulation of dirt, sweat, and odor.

Is it safe to tumble dry a motorcycle jacket?

For textile jackets, you may use a dryer on a cool air setting when the jacket is damp. However, leather jackets should always be air-dried to prevent shrinkage.

Can I wash my motorcycle jacket with armor inside?

No, always remove armor before washing a motorcycle jacket to avoid damage to both the armor and the jacket.

Can I dry clean my motorcycle jacket?

Dry cleaning is not recommended for motorcycle jackets. Stick to the appropriate cleaning methods for each type of jacket material to maintain its condition. However, if the tag says you can dry clean, go for it. 

Why is it important to wash my motorcycle jacket?

Washing your motorcycle jacket helps prevent unpleasant odors, sweat, dirt buildup, and leather deterioration. A clean jacket also ensures proper ventilation and prevents water retention, making for a safer and more comfortable riding experience.

The post Guide: Cleaning Your Motorcycle Jacket first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

I’ll get right down to it, because I know the feeling of staring down a winter without any riding, and it’s no fun. 

Get these few steps right, and you’ll avoid pulling out a mold-ridden, smelly mess for that glorious first ride next spring. 

It all starts with cleaning. Then I’ll walk through how to store leather and textile jackets properly, long term, plus tricks for avoiding a bad outcome when you go to break out that gear again. 

Let’s get into it. 

Cleaning Your Jacket (The Most Important Step) 

Before we even think about storage, you need to clean that jacket. 

I know you’d rather run yourself over with your bike. 

But if you don’t clean that jacket before you store it, you’re inviting all the smells, fungi, molds and whatnot creeping around in the fibers to have a banger while your jacket is stored away. 

This goes for all your gear, helmets too. 

Clean BEFORE you store. Or else you’ll be buying a new jacket next season. 

Cleaning does not have to be hard, though. However, it can literally involve just a trip to the laundry room and back. 

Here’s my full guide to in-depth cleaning of textile and leather motorcycle jackets. 

In this guide I go through:

1. Prepping your jacket for cleaning (including understanding the all-important label hieroglyphics) 
2. Tossing it in the machine with the right cleaning product (NOT the regular detergent that will RUIN your jacket)
3. Drying and conditioning it (without destroying waterproofing)

Your jacket is already clean? I’ll take your work for it. Here’s how to store it. 

Storing a Leather Jacket (Easy, No Mold)

Ah, leather. The caviar of the motorcycle world. Storing leather jackets is an art form, and I’m here to turn you into a master. 

Let’s begin our journey.

1. Make sure your jacket is absolutely, positively, 100% dry. It should have that classic leather sheen to it. Humidity? Not today, Satan.
2. Time for some TLC: repair any damage, like loose stitching or tears. You will thank yourself when that first sunny day of spring comes, and you can go straight out with your good-as-new jacket. If you need help with repairs, I’ve got an article for that too.)
3. Remove any armor or protectors, and store them separately.
4. Find a sturdy, broad-shouldered hanger (see below*) that’ll treat your jacket with the respect it deserves. No wire hangers, ever! Your jacket needs room to breathe and air to circulate to keep mildew and smells away. 
5. Store your leather masterpiece in a cool, dry, dark closet. The ideal humidity level is below 50%. No sunlight, no dampness, and no stuffy spaces. 
6. If you must cover your jacket, use a fabric suit bag or paper. Plastic is a big no-no. Leather needs to breathe, remember?

You’re done!

* Don’t have any good hangers laying around? Modify a wood one with some cardboard, or pick up this specialized ‘shoulder saver’ hanger that keeps your jacket open, allowing air to circulate all around. That will prevent mildew and smells from developing. Is saving your beautiful jacket worth the cost of that hanger? Only you can decide.

Should you store your leather motorcycle jacket in a container? 

Avoid storing your jacket in a plastic container. Leather needs to breathe, otherwise mold can develop. Hanging is best, but if you must keep it elsewhere at least put it in a wood box or fabric suitcase and try to fold it as little as possible. Folds create areas where moisture can build and mold can start to grow. 

Can you store a leather jacket outside, in a garage or shed? 

Store it inside if you can. Garages and sheds can trap a lot of humidity, and if your winter goes below freezing that cold can damage your jacket. Trust me, you don’t want to deal with the aftermath.

Storing a Textile Jacket (Low Maintenance AF)

Textile jackets – nylon, polyester, Kevlar, Cordura, and the like – are easy. The fibers in a textile jacket typically doesn’t erode or mold like leather on contact with moisture. It’s a pretty close cousin to plastic, which doesn’t care about much of what you throw at it. 

Follow the same storing process as I outlined above for leather jackets, but you can be a little looser with where and how you store your textile jacket. 

Plastic bins and trunks are fine for storing textile jackets. Just make sure the bin and jacket are clean and dry, and toss some silica gel packets in there to soak up any humidity. You can fold the jacket but not tightly: tight creases over long periods can create weak points (read: will tear in crash) on the fabric, and create points where mildew can take root. 

If storing in a garage or shed, protect your textile jacket from temperature extremes, humidity, insects, and rodents. Some creatures will stoop to eating your Kevlar. 

BONUS 1: Storing Gear on the Go

There’s a shocking number of Reddit threads on the topic of what riders do with their gear on a break while they’re out on a ride. Given I’ve done a few cross-country trips myself as well as regular commuting, here’s my advice:

1. Lock your gear down with a steel cable and padlock. Loop the cable through the arm of your jacket, the eyeport of your helmet, and the frame or forks of your bike. Padlock the ends together. That’ll stop most thieves. Though if I parked in the same spot every day, I’d go for the next option. 
2. Store your gear in a top case and side bags. Toss your gear in those so it’s out of sight and much less likely to be nabbed. Revzilla carries plenty of cases and you can shop by the bike(s) you ride to find all the compatible options. You can also toss extra layers, rain gear, backup gloves, and groceries in those bags. 
3. Suck it up and wear it. Get a jacket you love, and this may not be a big deal at all. Clip your helmet on your backpack with a carabiner and set off!

BONUS 2: Buy or Build a Gear Cabinet

Don’t want to think about storage every fall? Build or buy a dedicated motorcycle gear cabinet or hanger. 

The one pictured above has adjustable shelves so you can build it to fit your gear, whether that’s MX boots and armored shirts or race suits and slim boots. Pick this one up on Amazon.

If you’d rather DIY, get some ideas here and here. 

Image Source: Pinterest

FAQs

Is it OK to store leather in plastic?

No, it’s not a good idea to store leather in plastic. Leather needs to breathe, otherwise, it can mold. Make sure not to crowd leather against other leather items and apply leather conditioner to keep it in tip-top shape.

How do I keep my motorcycle jacket from smelling?

Keeping your motorcycle jacket smelling fresh starts with proper cleaning, or just a couple spritzes of Febreze. Check out my article on cleaning your motorcycle jacket for tips and tricks on how to clean your jacket and prevent unwanted odors.

Should leather be hung or folded?

Leather jackets should definitely be hung on a strong hanger. Folds can cause damage to leather when stored folded for a long period of time, and create areas where mildew can build up. Always use a sturdy, broad-shouldered hanger to maintain the jacket’s shape and prevent creases.

The post Storing a Motorcycle Jacket Without Ruining It first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

Whether you took a spill or unearthed a great classic from the depths of your closet, you need to make some fixes before you’re ready to ride in that bad boy again. 

Repairing a motorcycle jacket is often cheap and easy, if you know where to look for supplies and tips. Problem is, most riders don’t – so I put everything in one place. 

This article has all you need to know to fix a zipper, snap, tear or hole on any jacket: whether it’s Cordura, denim or good old cowhide leather. 

Before you drop $500 on a new jacket, read this. 

Skip to the sections relevant for you and your jacket. 

How to Repair Holes and Rips on a Motorcycle Jacket

When it comes to fixing rips and holes, pay attention to location, material, and stitching. You wouldn’t slap a band-aid on a gaping wound, would you? So don’t slap any old fabric on your ripped jacket. 

As for material, replace like with like. Leather should be replaced with equally strong and thick leather. As for Kevlar, Cordura, and other fancy fabrics, it’s crucial to patch with the same material with equal or great denier (abrasion resistance). Do not patch the seat of your motorcycle jeans with plain ol’ denim – that’s like fixing a card door with a piece of cardboard! 

Where to get these special materials, you ask? I’ll get to that in a moment. 

As for location, be extra careful mending anything at the elbows, shoulders, and lower back area as these are most prone to sliding in a crash. The material and stitching in these areas must be super strong. 

Want in on a little secret? Small incidental tears in non-critical areas of your leather jacket can be fixed with glue and leather coloring (were you in a knife fight by chance?). But for those critical slide zones, attach a leather patch firmly to add some character and protect your skin.

As for stitching, always use an extra strong thread like ballistic nylon. Anything else will disintegrate on first contact with pavement, and there goes your patchwork. Double or triple stitch is critical as well, and it’s what most tailors get wrong. 

How do I find the right materials? 

Finally, I get to the good stuff. To find the right patch material (like Cordura) and thread, try visiting a fabric store, tailor, shoe repair shop or even boat cover maker in town. If you go to a tailor, ask them if they’ve worked with motorcycle or equestrian gear – they’ll understand the strength you need. 

Any shop that creates or mends custom leather or high-strength fabric items is a good place to start. If you don’t want to bother doing the job yourself, they can also quote you a price to repair any holes, rips, zippers, snaps etc. 

For other ideas on where to get professional repairs done, see that section down below. 

Sewing up a Hole or Rip

Ready to start mending? Get the following supplies:

• Your trusty jacket with the pesky hole
• A small piece of matching fabric as your patch
• Ballistic nylon thread
• A sewing needle suitable for heavy-duty fabric
• A pair of sharp scissors
• Some pins or fabric clips (to keep everything in place)

Then follow these steps:

1. Position the Patch and Secure It
   1. Place the patch over the hole, ensuring it covers the entire damaged area with some margin to spare. You want a buffer zone around the tear. Once you’ve found the sweet spot, pin or clip the patch in place.
2. Start Threading
   1. Thread your needle with the ballistic nylon thread and tie a knot at the end. Starting from the inside of the jacket, push the needle through the fabric, just outside the edge of the hole, and then through the patch. Make sure to catch both layers of fabric.
   2. Sew with a tight pattern (look up whipstitch or blanket stitch). Keep the stitches close together and consistent to ensure the patch stays put during those high-speed adventures. Go around at least twice; three times and across the middle several times is even better. 
3. Secure the Patch and Admire Your Work
   1. Once you’ve stitched your way around the entire patch, finish off by tying a secure knot on the inside of the jacket (a strong backstitch). Trim any excess thread.
   2. Give yourself a pat on that patch. Nice work.

How to Fix Zippers and Snaps on a Motorcycle Jacket

Zippers have to be the most annoying but most useful thing on Earth. Love them when they work, loathe them when they don’t. 

Thankfully, most zipper problems can be fixed for under five dollars and five minutes. 

Here’s how.

Quick Fixes for a Stubborn Zipper

If your zipper is still kinda working but needs some TLC, try these quick fixes:

• Rub some graphite (pencil lead) or olive oil along the teeth to lubricate the zipper. Use a toothbrush to rub it in and brush out any dirt jammed in there. 
• Gently realign any misaligned teeth with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
• Reattach any separated zipper halves by opening the slider all the way to the bottom and carefully guiding the teeth back together.

Still not solved? Most likely you have a problem with your zipper pull. 

Fixing a Broken Zipper Pull

So your motorcycle jacket’s zipper pull decided to go AWOL and won’t glide up and down smoothly anymore? Replacing it is easier than you think, as long as the teeth of the zipper are all still fine. Grab yourself a pair of pliers, wire cutters, and a shiny new zipper pull, and let’s get to work.

1. First, check the size of your zipper (it’s usually stamped on the back of the zipper pull or bottom stopper). Size matters!
2. Purchase a replacement zipper pull of the same size and style. Pulls are usually made for metal, coil, or plastic zippers. Look at your zipper and decide what will probably work best. This isn’t an exact science. This Moto Kit from Zipper Rescue will probably have you covered. 
3. Use the wire cutters to remove the stopper at the top of your zipper, slide off the old zipper pull and slide on your new one. Test that it works as it should. Then put that old stopper (or a new one) back on the top with your pliers. This YouTube tutorial has you covered. 

If your zipper has broken teeth, you’ll need to replace the whole thing. 

Replacing the Entire Zipper

When your zipper is beyond repair, it’s time to perform a full replacement. Here’s how to do it:

1. Carefully remove the old zipper from your jacket with a seam ripper or scissors.
2. Purchase a suitable new zipper (waterproof or regular, depending on your jacket’s needs).
3. Pin or clip the new zipper in place, aligning it with the original stitching lines.
4. Sew the new zipper onto the jacket using a double stitch and trusty ballistic nylon thread.
5. Test your handiwork by zipping and unzipping the jacket a few times. 

Booyah, time to hit the road. 

Zipper replacement can be a rough DIY project, so you might want to trust this one to a shoe shop or other repair shop. 

Fixing and Replacing Jacket Snaps

Metal jacket snaps get bent and torn off too easily, but thankfully they’re easy to fix. 

Try these easy tricks to fix distorted jacket snaps at home:

• Gently tap the snap back into shape with a small hammer or the flat side of a butter knife.
• Use needle-nose pliers to carefully bend any misaligned parts back into position.

Too far gone? You’ll need to replace them. 

1. Buy a quality snap kit that includes a punch and die set for easy installation. This kit on Amazon is well-priced, comes in multiple colors (brass, black, silver, gold, or mixed), and includes the tools to install the snaps yourself. 
2. Remove the old snap parts from the jacket using a pair of pliers or a flathead screwdriver. Pull up the edges until you can pull the snap out from the middle – you don’t want to tear out fabric with the old snap. 
3. Follow the kit’s instructions to install the new snaps. Give them a test snap to ensure they’re secure and ready to ride!

Congratulations, you just saved a few hundred bucks not having to buy a new motorcycle jacket. 

Replacing Armor in a Motorcycle Jacket

Imagine discovering your armor is falling apart just days before a cross-country motorcycle trip. Not just cracking, I’m talking turning to dust in your hands and leaving black powder all over the house like a broken urn. 

Why am I being oddly specific?

This happened to my dad not too long ago. He discovered the armor in his old motorcycle jacket literally turned to dust while it was on holiday in the garage. 

Here’s what he replaced his armor with that I’d recommend for you too. 

For shoulder and elbow armor, my dad picked up a set of SAS-TEC armor. Throughout his trip he commented on how thin they were and how they didn’t block airflow at all. I have a set of D3O that are great as well. 

If you don’t like the look of those, check out what Revzilla has on offer. I like shopping there for two reasons: they run sales often, and I know everything they carry is what it seems – there are no scams or misleading listings like you get on Amazon. 

For back protectors, my dad picked up an Alpinestars Nucleon (available in small, medium and large). Thankfully he hasn’t crashed in it yet, but he said like the SAS-TEC armor it feels like it isn’t even there. I also like the REV’IT! Seesoft Air Back Protector and D3O Viper Back Protector.

Whatever armor you go with, make sure it’s actually CE rated. Beware of knockoffs on Amazon offering “CE 2 rated” back protectors for $20. Their CE must stand for “Conning Everyone” because a decent CE Level 2 back protector will run you closer to $50. 

Is it worth saving those $30 if it means you’re spending $100k on spinal fusions and living in a wheelchair the rest of your life? I thought so! 

Look for reputable brands like SAS-TEC, D3O, Alpinestars and Leatt. They will specifically state CE Level 1 or Level 2 and mention EN1621 on the label. Then you’re good to go.

Swapping out armor is easy – just pull it out (or shake it out, in my dad’s case) and slide in the new armor. Jackets worth anything will have slots for elbow and shoulder armor as well as a back protector. Back protector sizes vary, but there aren’t any standards unfortunately. Just go with what Revzilla says will fit on their size charts for each back protector. 

Restoring a Leather Motorcycle Jacket

Finally we’re on to leather! 

Leather can outlast the rider wearing it, if it’s cared for properly. 

Maybe you rediscovered an old jacket in the depths of the basement or picked one up at a yard sale. Here’s how to bring a stiff and dry leather jacket back to life (maintaining it for the next generation? Read this)

CAUTION: Don’t even think about restoring a regular leather jacket and expecting it to protect you on the road like a motorcycle-specific leather jacket. The seams, leather treatment, and thickness are just not built to withstand the forces of a motorcycle crash. Don’t do it!

The Revival Process for a Leather Jacket

First, you’ll need to gather your supplies. You’ll want a couple soft clothes and some cleaning agents. I recommend Motul Perfect Leather. Just look at how it cleans up this jacket!

Your revival process might be as easy as thoroughly wiping down the jacket with leather conditioner (like Motul Perfect Leather) and leaving it to dry for a few days. If your leather looks rejuvenated and feels soft, you’re done. 

But what if your jacket has cracks or scuffs in the leather that leather conditioner can’t revive? 

You’ll need to fill those cracks with a leather crack filler. Like caulk for leather (but flexible) this second skin paints right on. After drying and dyeing to match the color of your jacket, even YOU might be fooled into thinking there was never a scuff at all. 

Here’s a great tutorial video on how to use leather crack filler to repair cracks and scuffs in your motorcycle jacket’s leather. Everything you need to make that old leather jacket just like new. 

Professional Repair for Motorcycle Jackets

Let’s be honest, sometimes we just can’t DIY our way out of everything. 

If your jacket is under warranty, contact the company or the seller (like Revzilla). They might be able to help you out with repairs, or at least get you the right replacement parts. 

If you want an expert to handle patches, zippers, snaps and more for you, consider these options: 

• Local Tailor
• Local Shoe Shop
• Local Vintage Store
• Local Boat Cover or Tarp Maker (seriously)

Anyone who does custom work with heavy duty materials (like boat covers or old leather) will be able to handle motorcycle gear. If you go to a tailor, ask them if they’ve worked on motorcycle or equestrian gear before. You don’t want a tailor who has only ever sewn suits for bankers thinking they can apply the same process to your Alpinestars racing jacket. 

If you don’t mind sending your jacket away, check out Anthony’s Leatherworks or Rugged Thread.

FAQs

How long is a motorcycle jacket good for? 

A motorcycle jacket can last anywhere from 5-10 years or even more, depending on how well you take care of it and the quality of the materials. Armor often hardens up or disintegrates in under 5 years, but that’s easy to replace. Some cheaper textile jackets might lose their strength over time, especially at the seams. On the other hand, a well-cared-for leather jacket can last lifetimes. Treat your jacket right and it’ll have your back for years to come!

Is Kevlar good for motorcycle jackets?

Yes, Kevlar is fantastic when it comes to motorcycle jackets. In crash scenarios, Kevlar provides excellent abrasion resistance and heat shielding, which means less road rash for you in case of a slide. Its lightweight and strong fibers also offer improved comfort and protection without adding too much bulk to your gear. It was designed to take bullets, after all, so it’s a good option for keeping you safe on the road.

The post Cheap and Easy Fixes for Motorcycle Jacket Zippers, Snaps, Tears and Holes first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

Most crashes aren’t just one big mistake. They’re multiple small ones all adding up: glare, driving too fast, and a driver changing lanes without a signal. Loud car, wet road, and a distracted rider.

Riding with a visor that’s constantly fogging is riding with one small mistake. That makes your ride a LOT less safe, ALL THE TIME. Don’t be like me, ignore a clean visor, and end up with a broken collar bone.

Unfortunately, motorcycle helmet fogging can become a recurring problem. Even top-of-the-range visors are susceptible to fogging up. Poor ventilation on the inside of your visor is part of riding and condensation is likely to form.

I don’t want you to be another motorcyclist that ends up on the pavement. So here are my tips to clear up your visor once and for all.

Fog Prevention Options

Open the vents or visor for improved airflow

Most anti-fog motorcycle helmets come with vents for airflow. These help reduce the temperature inside the helmet and allow moisture to escape. Ensure as many vents as possible are open before going out on your bike – that will help reduce condensation.

Another tactic is to open the visor while riding, letting in the fresh air.

However, this can solve the problem by creating another one, with the visor offering less protection from wind and rain.

A quick temporary fix can be to open your visor whenever you make a stop. At traffic lights, for example. This refresh of air inside the helmet can clear the visor.

But this doesn’t stop the underlying issue. Condensation will continue to build up once closed again.

So how can you stop visor fogging once and for all?

Use a Pinlock visor

Pinlock visors are a simple solution to what seems like the complex problem of helmet visor fogging.

All a Pinlock visor does is add a layer of air between the inside of your helmet and the visor.

How does this prevent fogging? Fogging happens because of a difference in temperature inside and outside the helmet. Your warm and wet breath hits the visor, which is cooled by the air outside. So condensation forms.

The Pinlock visor traps a pocket of air between the Pinlock visor and the outside visor. That air allows the Pinlock visor to be at the temperature of your breath while the outside visor is cool. No condensation!

It’s basically a double-glazed window. Trapped air is an excellent insulator, preventing your warm breath from hitting the cold visor.

Pinlocks will not fit in all helmets. You can check to see if your helmet will support pin lock visors by looking for two little studs on the inside of your visor, near the right and left edges. That’s where the visor will clip in.

Universal Anti-Fog Visor Inserts

If your helmet doesn’t have posts for a Pinlock visor, check out the WeePro insert.

The WeePro insert prevents motorcycle helmet fogging using the same principle as Pinlock visors. However, they fit in any helmet – no Pinlock posts needed.

Anti-Fog Face Mask

Visors not cutting it for you? Try not breathing!

Or the next best thing – absorbing your breath before it hits the visor with an anti-fog face mask.

Anti-fog face masks stop fog by absorbing moisture. Usually made of neoprene, they are worn over the nose and mouth and fasten to the inside of the helmet.

They guide your breath away from the visor and absorb moisture to reduce condensation. Anti-fog face masks are an affordable option, so try one if the visors aren’t working for you.

Anti-Fog Sprays

A temporary solution for motorcycle helmet fogging is available through the use of anti-fog sprays. They are applied to the entire surface of the visor evenly and form an anti-fog layer that stops condensation.

A great option is this one from Muc-Off. You can also spray it on the outside of your visor to help rain and moisture bead up and fall away.

The layer only lasts 5 days, so you’ll need to reapply often.

Give These a Try

There are plenty of other fixes out there that some riders will swear by. These include:

• Removing neck buffs or nose guards to improve ventilation (sometimes these push warm air UP instead of OUT)
• Furniture polish on the visor, applied and buffed with a cloth to give a clear view
• Simple dishwashing soap used to wash the inside of your visor
• Your own spit/saliva – in a pinch, this will add a layer of water that temporarily stops condensation from forming. Scuba divers use this effectively to keep masks from fogging at depth.

Why does my helmet visor fog up?

We’ve discussed some of the solutions, but what causes motorcycle helmet fogging? Understanding the underlying science behind what is happening can help you learn how to stop helmet visor fogging in the future.

Enclosing your head with a helmet and visor creates the perfect conditions for condensation to form.

As you ride, your visor chills due to external conditions. This could be because of low temperatures, rain, and wind. When moisture from your exhaled warm breath hits the cold visor, it rapidly cools and condenses, creating the fogging we are all familiar with. It is the same effect as windshields when you get in your car on a cold day. However, your car has a blower to clear the condensation away. We motorcycle riders are not so lucky.

Another factor to consider is humidity. Higher humidity means there is more water vapor to condense onto the visor, worsening motorcycle helmet fogging (1).

As fogging is affected by climate conditions, your geographical location significantly affects how bad of a problem it is (1). Places with:

• Colder climates
• Higher rainfalls
• Stronger wind chills
• Higher humidity levels

Are more prone to motorcycle helmet condensation.

The solutions discussed above work in a few different ways:

• Increasing ventilation or directing breath away from the visor to reduce the temperature and humidity inside the helmet, reducing condensation.
• Creating a layer of insulating air between the visor and your breath.
• Creating a layer on the visor which doesn’t allow condensation (microscopic beads of water) to form on the inside of the visor.

The last one is how anti-fog sprays work. They form a temporary bond on the visor surface. They contain hydrophilic ingredients (a fancy way of saying water ‘loving’) or surfactants that lower the surface tension of the water molecules (1).

Lowering the surface tension of water condensing on the visor produces a thin film instead of droplets. A film of water allows light to pass straight through it, and you get to see what’s happening on the road. Droplets of water disperse light, producing blurry and unclear vision that we know as condensation.

What works as anti-fog?

As mentioned before, some riders will swear by using furniture polish, washing up liquid, or even spit to prevent fogging on your visor. However, there are some common misconceptions out there, and it is important to research or do some home testing to make sure you are not going to worsen the problem.

There are some “fixes” out there on the internet that actively do more harm than good. Please don’t attempt to use toothpaste or shaving cream. These can be abrasive to the visor while also potentially stripping other coatings applied to the visor for scratch resistance or UV filtering.

Another solution some riders use is Rain-X glass water repellent. Rain-X utilizes water-beading technology to help keep car windshields clean from grime, dust, bugs, and weather. However, this product is intended for automotive glass applications only and is not recommended for use with plastic motorcycle visors.

Best Anti-Fog Spray

We believe the best anti-fog spray out there is Muc-Off Premium Anti Fog Treatment. Muc-Off is a company that designs products specifically for motorcycle and bicycle use, rather than adapting products for other niches.

Muc-Off’s Anti Fog Treatment spray uses its premium anti-mist formula to create a transparent, micro-thin coating on the inside of your visor that is long-lasting. So you don’t have to worry about constantly spraying your visor. One treatment prevents fogging for up to five days.

It has excellent moisture absorption properties that help motorcycle helmet rain and sweat bead off and out of your vision. It is available in a small handy 32ml spray bottle, taking up barely any space in your pack.

Don’t just take our word for it; 77% rated it “excellent” on Trustpilot with over 6000 reviews.

How to make your own anti-fog spray?

If you want to save some money and take the DIY approach, you can make your own anti-fog spray. 

A simple anti-fog solution with alcohol is just 1/4 cup of water and 3/4 cup of rubbing alcohol mixed with a drop of dish soap. Place in a spray bottle, shake well, and you’re good to go.

If you don’t want to use alcohol, another approach uses vinegar. Fill a cup 1/3 full of water, then fill to the brim with vinegar. Transfer to a spray bottle and apply to your visor. Once applied, wipe down using a microfiber cloth. This vinegar solution is also great for cleaning off the grime from your visor.

When making DIY anti-fog solutions, it is good to use distilled water instead of tap water. Distilled water has no other minerals that might screw up your spray.

Never Let Fogging Ruin Your Ride

No matter where you live or how often you ride, you need a plan to deal with motorcycle helmet fogging. Even if you live in a warm, dry climate and ride infrequently, it only takes your vision to be impaired once for there to be dire consequences.

With everything to consider when it comes to motorcycle helmet fogging, make sure you find the solution that matches your needs. The benefits of not having to worry about reduced vision on a ride will outweigh your efforts. Forget about unplanned breaks to clean up your visor and make a plan for how to stop helmet visor fogging.

The post Motorcycle Helmet Visor Fog Prevention – DIY or Buy first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

You can’t replace your head.

So you’re better off replacing that old helmet before it’s too late.

But is it too late?

In this article I’ll give you a checklist. By the end of it, you’ll know if you can safely ride with that helmet or whether you should look for a new one.

I’ll show you how to:

• Evaluate a helmet and determine if its still safe to use
• Replace broken parts on an otherwise good helmet
• Treat a helmet after a crash
• Avoid common mistakes with old helmets
• And if you’re picking up a new helmet… use our Helmet Size Calculator to get the right fit the first time.

Let’s get started.

Quick Hit List

I get it, you’re holding an old helmet in your hand and you don’t want to read my stupid list, you just want to RIDE! Here’s what to check before you don that lid:

1. Expiration Date: should be printed inside the helmet on the EPS foam (so pop out the soft liner). More than 5 years old? You should probably replace that puppy.
2. Damage: Any visible damage? Don’t wear it. A cracked shell is no shell at all. Same goes for withering chin straps and fading EPS foam.
3. Helmet History: Has the lid ever been crashed in or dropped? Even if it looks fine, an impact will compress the EPS foam inside. That foam only compresses once – which means if you crash again, it’s doing you no good.

When to Replace a Motorcycle Helmet: A Checklist

This year, I pulled an old helmet off the shelf. It’s a dirt bike and adventure helmet I bought a few years ago.

I built this checklist to figure out for myself whether I could still safely ride in that helmet. Or, if I should shell out for a new one.

This checklist is a combination of everything I learned from friends, forums, and Facebook groups on the effect of time, wear, and tear on motorcycle helmets.

First step: check the expiration.

1. Helmets have Expiration Dates

And some smell even worse than a rotten egg far before they reach them.

But really, jokes aside, helmets come with expiration dates. Most helmet manufacturers like Arai and AGV recommend riders replace a helmet every five to seven years. The Consumer Product Safety Commission in the US says similar for motorcycle and bike helmets, as well as the Snell Foundation. Shoei says just three years.

Why five years? After normal use for five years, padding will compress significantly. This means a helmet that fit you well when new will be a size or two too large for your head.

A helmet that’s too large will shift around in a crash. That means more rotational forces on your head and a higher risk of serious injury.

Also, the EPS foam loses some of its shock-absorbing potential from time alone. Even a helmet that spent most of its life on a shelf is less safe than a new lid.

Plus, helmet technology moves so fast that five years makes a huge difference in helmet quality. What was once top of the line will become a budget lid in five years.

How can you find a helmet’s manufacture date?

You can usually find this information on a sticker pasted on the inside of the EPS foam. If you can’t find that or its rubbed out, the date is occasionally stamped in to the D-Ring or on the chin strap as well. Arai does this.

Now on to the second step.

2. A Damaged Helmet is No Helmet At All

A helmet does its job by absorbing impacts using primarily the shell and EPS foam layers in the helmet. The shell is easy to inspect since it’s right there, on the outside!

Shell Cracks

But what are you looking for? A shell that won’t do its job will have cracks in it. In a polycarbonate or ABS plastic shell, these cracks will be long and large. In a fiberglass or carbon fiber shell, you might see small cracks going out from a center point, like a spiderweb.

Both are bad signs that the shell has already absorbed an impact, and won’t do so well on round two.

Fading and EPS Foam

Fading color is also a bad sign. If you’ve left a helmet out in the sun, it will fade. The fading color isn’t the problem though. It’s the impact of heat on the EPS foam.

Ever tossed a styrofoam cup in to a fire? Withers away faster than that smooth talker at the biker bar who claims he can wheelie down the whole street, but never seems to be around when everyone’s ready to see the feat.

Well guess what that shock-absorbing EPS foam is made of? Basically styrofoam. So any heat, whether prolonged or sudden, will make that EPS foam less effective. If the shell is fading, the EPS is degrading.

Trusty Chin Straps

Now let’s turn our attention to the chin strap. Without that fine piece of whatever-the-hell-material-that-is, your helmet won’t do any good in a crash. It’ll be chilling fifty feet away while your head meets the pavement.

So when you’re looking at an old helmet, make sure the chin strap is strongly anchored in to the helmet on both sides. Check the buckle for corrosion. Snap it all together and tug on it – hard.

Padding that Turns to Dust

You’ll also want to inspect the inner padding of a helmet. My dad recently picked up an old helmet to go on a ride with me and noticed the liner turned to dust when he touched it. He’s sure glad he tried it on a few weeks before we planned to start our ride!!

And his lid wasn’t cheap – it was a Schuberth. Time is the mortal enemy of a helmet’s innards.

However, if everything else is still good to go on your helmet you can replace the pads – check Revzilla to see if they carry replacement pads for your helmet!

No Shield, No Sight

Finally, you’ll want to take a look at the shield on your old lid. Is it scratched or cracked? You might be able to pick up a replacement from Revzilla or another retailer, or you can try buffing out those scratches yourself.

In any case, you don’t want to ride with a scratched or cracked visor. Most motorcycle crashes are not the result of one cataclysmic error – they’re a combination of two or three small issues. Riding with a bad visor is like living as a cat on their last life.

On to the third item on our checklist:

3. Has the Helmet been Crashed in or Dropped?

This is the most critical question on the checklist.

Read that again.

So pay close attention.

A motorcycle helmet protects your head by absorbing energy in a crash. That energy is absorbed by the shell and the EPS foam. While some shells will bounce back from light impacts (especially ABS and polycarbonate), the EPS foam will compress and NEVER expand again.

That compressed foam cannot absorb another impact. It’s done. Kaput. Checked out.

Your skull is all that’s left to defend your precious brain.

On a high end fiberglass or carbon fiber lid, you’ll likely be able to see from the outside shell fractures if an impact has occurred, and you can assume the EPS foam on the inside is compromised. But not always, and especially not on some ABS and polycarbonate lids that fail to crack on impact.

EPS foam is one time use. So if a helmet was involved in a crash, TOSS IT OUT. It’s NOT doing its job anymore. Even if there’s no visible damage. The $200 or $500 or even $1,000 you’re going to spend on a new helmet is a LOT cheaper than the brain surgery you’ll need if you crash in that same helmet again.

But what about dropping a helmet?

I’ve done it a million times, fumbling with saddlebags or my phone. There goes my lid, off the passenger seat and on to the parking lot tarmac.

This one is up for debate. Without the weight of a head inside the helmet, the EPS foam is unlikely to compress.

Arai paints their EPS foam black so you can easily see if it compressed in a drop – just look for the raw white EPS foam poking through.

I’ve dropped my dirt bike helmet a few times, but never over a

On to a few questions you might still have…

In Case You’re Wondering…

Should I keep my old motorcycle helmet for occasional passengers?

Depends how much you care about that passenger… in all seriousness, make sure your passenger is just as safe as you when you take them for a ride. You are putting their life at risk on the back of your bike, so they deserve good protection. The above checklist applies to helmets for your passenger as well.

I have a good helmet with one broken part. Do I need to toss it out?

As long as the shell and EPS foam are all intact and in good working order, you can still salvage the helmet. Visors and padding can often be replaced by checking with the manufacturer and retailers like Revzilla. If the padding isn’t squeezing your cheeks anymore and you can move the helmet more than an inch on your head in any direction, it’s time to replace those pads.

Is a helmet that’s been on a shelf for years still good?

So you wore your lid once, then it sat on a shelf for five years without getting any sun or sweat? It might be okay to use, but you really don’t know with that EPS foam. Some foams harden over time, losing that shock-absorbing goodness inside. You’re better off just buying a new helmet.

What can I do with an old motorcycle helmet?

If your helmet is past its prime, it’s time to send it on to its next life. That could be on your shelf as a monument to your glorious bygone days (cut out the chinstrap first to prevent someone using it again!).

Or, you can donate it to emergency services to use during first aid training. That might earn you some good karma, and help all motorcyclists get better medical care in crashes. Don’t cut the chin strap out if you’re donating the helmet!

Finally, you can give it away as a prop – many theatre companies and schools are happy to have a helmet to use for something or other. Who knows what they do. I’m too busy hitting the road to know!

Whatever you do, please do NOT sell your used helmet to a fellow rider if it’s not road worthy anymore. Motorcycling is dangerous enough as it is!

Should I buy a used helmet?

Please do not buy a used helmet! Like your mom used to say about sticking random stuff in your mouth – “You don’t know where that’s been.” You might be buying an outright fake or a crashed helmet. Just buy from a reputable manufacturer through a reputable retailer like Revzilla. This goes for free helmets tossed in when you buy a bike too – just not worth the risk.

When do motorcycle helmets expire?

The industry and safety experts are clear on when motorcycle helmets expire: in 5 to 7 years. You’ll find this figure mentioned on the websites of top manufacturers like Arai and AGV. Shoei says every 3 years. Of course, all these companies make money by selling helmets, so take those numbers with a grain of salt. But as helmet safety technology continues to advance, you’ll get a much better product every couple years for even less of your hard earned money.

The post When to Replace Your Motorcycle Helmet? Here’s How to Know first appeared on It's Better On The Road.

I spit on a rag, rubbed the visor, and shrugged my shoulders. Good enough. Got on my bike, sped off, and not five minutes later I was laying on the asphalt. Bike was in a ditch and my left collar bone was in 4 pieces.

With my peripheral vision blocked by the mud I failed to clean off, I didn’t see a car coming up behind me as I turned. In my sudden panic as it almost rear ended me, I sped up too suddenly and lost control.

Completely my fault, and completely avoidable if I had just cleaned my visor properly. I couldn’t ride for six weeks, but it could have been a lot worse.

A clean and clear visor isn’t a nice to have – it’s a safety necessity. To help make your helmet visor last as long as possible, I’ll walk you through:

• What you need to clean your helmet visor
• How to clean your helmet visor without damaging it
• Removing visor scratches
• Cleaning a Pinlock visor insert
• Freshening up the inside of your helmet

So you don’t make the same mistake I did!

How to Clean Your Helmet Visor

Step 1 – Get the Gear

To clean your helmet visor properly, without causing damage or adding scratches, you need to get some supplies. There are lots of products out there that claim to be specifically for helmets and visors, but honestly you can clean your visor and helmet with standard products easily. 

Add to your shopping list:

• Microfiber cloths to avoid scratches on your visor and finish
• Soft-bristle toothbrushes to do any detailed cleaning
• Muc-Off Visor, Lens, And Goggle Cleaner

You really don’t need anything more advanced to give your visor a good clean. Have a bowl of warm water on hand before you start cleaning your visor, too. 

Step 2 – Remove the Visor

To make sure you get into all the nooks, crannies, and crevices of your helmet visor, you need to remove it from the helmet. 

This should be a super simple process with a latch, catch, or screw that lets it pop right off. If it’s a new helmet that you’ve not cleaned before, check out the manufacturer’s handbook. 

Who keeps them around, though? 

Luckily, there are myriad YouTube channels out there reviewing pretty much any helmet you can think of. Simply search the name of the helmet and you’ll find at least a couple of videos unboxing your lid. Some of these will include how to remove the visor as well. If you really can’t figure it out, give the manufacturer or your local helmet retailer a call.

Step 3 – Clean

Now, you need to remove any Pinlock insert on your visor – carefully peel it off, either from the center or by freeing it from the posts on either end.

Now grab some toilet paper – yes, we’re going very low tech here.

Get your toilet paper wet with warm water and lay it over the outside and inside of your visor. Let it sit for a few minutes. This will free up any gunk stuck to your visor – like dead bugs – without you having to scratch at it. Scratching equals damage, equals visual distortion, equals crashes.

Do not use any chemicals. Dish soap qualifies as a chemical here. Any cleaning agents might also remove coatings on the visor, like the anti-fog coating. Using them can even invalidate your helmet warranty.

Now gently rub the toilet paper around the visor to lift off all the soaked dirt and grime. Anything that doesn’t come off at this point will require a longer soak, which is better achieved using a microfiber cloth.

If anything is lodged inside the visor clips or the lips around the seal, this is where you need your toothbrush. A gentle scrub of dried-on dirt should lift it off and the brushes are soft enough to not do any damage. 

Step 4 – Polish

After removing everything from the surface, you want to get rid of smears and get to fixing helmet visor scratches. Beware, at this point you could be violating your helmet’s warranty. However, these polishes are unlikely to affect coatings on your visor, especially if you avoid applying them to the inside.

A good polish is going to smooth out pockmarks and add a wax layer to fill in scratches so you can see clearly again. I’ve had a lot of success with Muc-off cleaner. While it isn’t the cheapest polish, many motorcyclists agree with me that it’s the most effective (1). Maybe it’s just the coconut oil smell we’re all going wild for.

Spray it onto your visor and buff it with a clean, dry, microfiber cloth.

For a cheaper option, toothpaste can work. But, I’ve got some words of caution:

• Don’t use a toothpaste containing calcium carbonate
• Avoid toothpastes that contain ammonia
• Avoid toothpastes with beads and fancy junk – this will scratch your visor even further
• Use a toothpaste that contains baking soda for a gentle abrasive action

A popular pick that meets these needs is Arm & Hammer, but you still need to be careful with how hard you buff it in. It could prove expensive to experiment with toothpaste for cleaning your helmet visor. 

If you’re adamant to give it a go, rub the toothpaste over your visor, clean it off with a microfiber cloth, then add wax. Keep it tropical and good value with some simple coconut oil. 

Step 5 – Treat and Dry

Once it’s clean and shiny, you can add an anti-fogging spray. We’d recommend Muc-Off Premium Anti Fog Treatment to give your visor an anti-fog coating. We’ve got more tips on anti-fogging, and we’ll look at cleaning your Pinlock anti-fog visor in a minute.

Finally, leave your visor to dry out overnight. You probably could take it out pretty much straight after, but try and clean your helmet visor at least the night before.

How to Fix Helmet Visor Scratches

Crashes aren’t usually the result of 1 BIG mistake, they’re most likely the result of 2 or 3 minor mistakes that added up to total FAILURE.

Could be sun in your eyes, a wet road, overheated brake pads, an angry driver… keep going, and you can probably think of a few from your last ride.

Riding around with scratches on your helmet visor?

That’s 1 minor mistake you’re ALWAYS carrying with you, from the second your kickstand goes up.

This is a minor mistake you can fix in a few minutes, for free or almost no cost. That’s probably worth saving thousands of dollars (pounds, euros, what have you) you’ll spend on a crash, plus the agony of it all.

To remove scratches from your visor, get yourself a:

• Clean Microfiber cloth – here’s a great set of 12 from Amazon if you want fresh ones
• A heat gun like Black and Decker sells (or powerful hair dryer like this one)
• 1,500 grit sandpaper like this one from the reputable 3M (read below before freaking out!)
• Optional: Muc Off Anti-Fog Treatment (I’ll explain later)

Sandpaper?! Jesus, Evan; you want me to use SANDPAPER?

Yes I do – 1,500 grit is ultra fine sandpaper, meaning it won’t dig big new scratches in to your visor – it will help to level out the scratches you do have and create a surface that can smooth out with just heat.

By the way, on Muc Off: This process will rub off coatings on the scratched areas of your visor, so you might want to add an anti-fog treatment like Muc Off.

Once you’re equipped, here’s how to do some DIY scratch removal:

1. While running your visor under cool water, rub the sandpaper back and forth in a small area perpendicular across the scratch.
2. Keep rubbing until you no longer feel the sandpaper catch on the scratch.
3. Turn off the tap.
4. Wipe away the excess water with your clean microfiber cloth.
5. Check your work – the area you’re wiping should look a bit blurry, but the original scratch shouldn’t be visible anymore.
6. When you can no longer tell where the original scratch was, leave it to dry completely.
7. Now, take your heat gun (if it has temp settings, put close to 550 F), hold it 4 inches from the surface and run over the scratched area for a few seconds at a time.
8. Leave your visor to cool. If you want, now is the time to apply an anti-fog treatment.

Pop your visor back on your helmet. Boo-yah, ready to ride.

How to Clean a Pinlock Visor Insert

Pinlock visors are an anti-fogging device that basically creates an air gap between your visor and warm breath that stops fogging. It’s an insert that goes on the inside of your visor and comes standard with more and more helmets these days. 

Cleaning is pretty simple:

1. Remove your visor from your helmet and flex the visor enough you remove your insert
2. Wipe it over with a microfiber cloth. If you use a damp cloth, you’ll need to leave it to dry overnight. 
3. Flex your visor and reinsert your Pinlock

It really is that easy (2). Do not use any alcohol-based solutions on the visor, as it will damage coatings that are key to the anti-fog properties of the Pinlock visor. 

How to Clean the Inside of a Helmet

Every decent helmet will have a removable liner and cheek pad. First though, you need to prepare a sink or bowl of warm water with a good squeeze of baby shampoo mixed in. Shampoo is ideal because most of the grime in your helmet is from your hair and its oils. 

Remove the liner and cheek pads and immerse them in your soapy water. Give them a good squeeze and a bit of a rub to get your hair oils and face sweat out. Delightful…

Once cleaned through, rinse with running warm water, squeeze out, and leave to dry off overnight. 

The post How to Clean Your Helmet and Visor, Remove Scratches, and Save your Life first appeared on It's Better On The Road.